Stefano Carnati, who ten days ago did Dreamtime 8C (B+), has done Dave Graham's classical, The Story Of 2 Worlds8C in Cresciano. The video on his Insta shows the new kneebar beta in the start and also the upside down climbing in the end. "Did The Dagger a few years ago and briefly tried the sit a couple of times this year. Climbed today after a long session. Possibly easier with all the new betas." The name of Graham's FA from 2005, did refer to the grade inflation which basically was stopped due to this boulder. Some thought it was 8C+ at the time. Possibly one reason for the grade inflation back then was that very few did suggest downgrades although better beta was found.

Alizée Dufraisse, who previoulsy has done two 9a's, has done Meadowlark Lemon Stand 8B (A+) in Red Rocks. (c) Dave Graham "I am happy because it is a very beautiful boulder. It means for me that I can continue harder and try the sit start (8B+), which is definitely the inspiring line. It is a fragile boulder, so I did not had the chance to do a lot of sessions on it, but it seems the weather will be on our side for the end of the trip.

Vadim Timonov who just did his sixth 8C, The Kingdom has done Fred Nicole's classical Dreamtime 8C (B+) in Cresciano. (c) Leo Zhukov "I spent three sessions. The first was wet but I did all the moves. The second was good, I was so close but heel hook moves were not stable. The third session was good. 2nd go from the start. In my opinion, it’s a normal 8C. The Kingdom was easier for me. Tomorrow I want to try Off The Wagon. I have time until the 15th of January. I don’t have a house after the 18th of December and don’t have plans. Maybe we will leave to Murgtal or Fontainebleau, or stay here in the car if we can’t find something ;)

Vadim Timonov, #3 in the Euro Bouldering CH in 2019, has had a stellar day in Brione flashing Amber 8A+ (B) and doing two more 8A to 8B, as well as taking down, The Kingdom 8C (B+). (c) Leo Zhukov "What a day! I am happy that I have climbed in one session. Don’t know about grade. Maybe my style, but felt not so hard for 8C. Did it just in a couple of hours. It should have been a rest day but the conditions were pretty good and I could not wait. It turned out productively."

Henning Wang, who previously has done four 8c+' out of which two this year, is peaking at age 35 doing his first 9a, Chilam Malenum in Villanueva del Rosario. "I'm usually not a huge fan of link-ups, but this line stood out to me as a route in its own right from the very beginning. If it was not an easier little brother of Chilam Balam it would for sure be one of the major lines at any crag. Chilam Balam has 4 cruxes, the hardest being at the top. Chilam Malenum climbs through the first 3, then half the roof traverse of Chilam before going up a separate 25 meters and topping out in the still unclimbed Malenum project 10 meters before Chilam starts going up. The link was first made by Edu Marin and Dani Andrada in 2015 during their quest to climb Chilam Balam In total I've been trying the route on and off now for 3 seasons, starting in December 2017. I got shut down by rain the last two seasons and often just worked moves and sections that were dry here and there with long breaks in between. Mainly trying the first part as I couldn´t do the boulder after the first anchor. After finally sending part 1 this spring we returned in November and finally got a good 5 weeks to climb on it where it was all dry. I was feeling much stronger than in the spring, and could finally do the boulder after the first anchor and make all the links, but it still didn´t come easy. After sending the top from an easier start I started trying from the ground a few weeks ago, in the end climbing the first part another 8 times before finally managing to make the link on day 36 of the trip, on maybe the first day with really good conditions."

Hannes Huch did earlier in the week accuse Said Belhaj of lying in regards to his ascent of Action Direct. Huch has also said that other climbers have mentioned that also his ascents of Papichulo 9a+ and TTT are suspicious. Lacrux did get the exclusive interview where Belhaj gives out all details including the name and numbers to two belayers. When it comes to AD, the belayer is unknown and Belhaj says he most have deleted his Insta page.

Alex Honnold started Honnold Foundation, focusing on Solar Aid, in 2013. One reason was simply to bring important issues to the world rather than to only have interviews about death and risk-taking. "The foundation is based in Salt Lake City. One of the really good things about the film is that fundraising is easier. Next year we will give away 1 million dollars. We have been trying to focus on the Americas again. We continue to support Ethiopia and East Africa but now more in countries like Puerto Rico. I'd like to climb harder grades but I don't think I will only focus on that because I find it slightly boring. I have done so many crazy expeditions, travel, work with my foundation. I am doing so many other things so sport climbing is kind of pleasure for me. I know I will never be a great sport climber. You know what I mean. People onsight as hard as my hardest grades. That is not my contribution to climbing but there are other places where I feel I can contribute to. I like a little bit of everything and part of it is that it is fun to be a beginner. I like the steep learning curve. You start with something new and you learn quickly. For me alpinism always feels that way. Part of the best thing is feeling like you improve. This is one of the most satisfying things in climbing but as you get better it is harder and harder to improve." In the future, getting older, he might continue the family tradition getting a professor degree. As we stop the interview, Alex immediately tries to follow up who has the next interesting talk at the Nobel Week Dialogue, in Göteborg. - You know, tonight we are flying to Stockholm in a private plane and I will be at the Nobel Prize ceremony possibly talking with some of the prize winners and your king. That would be cool.

Alex Honnold is in Sweden for the Nobel Week Dialogue talking about his Freesolo documentary and the risk involved. The film producers finished their great presentation by saying Honnold's girlfriend thought it was 30 % that he would fall before the subject was raised. 8a met up Honnold with an interview. "I think we are talking less than 1 % risk and it relates mainly to a mental issue. Climbing on a 7c you just don't fall when giving it 100 % and you climb at your best." During the first attempt, Alex stopped in a "blink" as he did not have a great feeling. He is talking about walking up to the crag very early in the morning and it is really cold and dark when you start. "I made it up to the slabs but I couldn't feel my feet. The shoes were too tight and in a moment it was too much. The second time was better although feeling nervous. I know it was as prepared as I would. It was that moment or never. I was able to go into robot mode. I did not need to think about anything. I could just perform. There have been tons of situations where he says being scary needing to take a deep breath and carry on. Once a hold broke and he actually did fall two meters into a tree fully covered of snow on a ledge. So do you think you will come in a situation like this again? Over time I am probably losing the appetite of it a little bit. Part of it is the classic, it is a little bit of a young man's game to prove himself. At a certain point you do not want to push as hard. We will see. You now the last year has been crazy with traveling and working nonstop so I have been tired. I have soloed all the best routes in the Western US. El Cap always represented the end of a very long road. On the other hand, Alex finishes our risk assessment talk by comparing his free solos with the risks the astronauts take. "If it was once in a lifetime for the one achievement that would mean the most to you for your entire life. If I had a 3 % risk for death I still might go for it. You only have one life anyway. It is what matters the most and you are uniquely capable of doing it. I am sure the astronauts are probably throwing around numbers near 3 %."