13 December 2019

Chilam Malenum 9a by Henning Wang

Henning Wang, who previously has done four 8c+' out of which two this year, is peaking at age 35 doing his first 9a, Chilam Malenum in Villanueva del Rosario. "I'm usually not a huge fan of link-ups, but this line stood out to me as a route in its own right from the very beginning. If it was not an easier little brother of Chilam Balam it would for sure be one of the major lines at any crag. Chilam Balam has 4 cruxes, the hardest being at the top. Chilam Malenum climbs through the first 3, then half the roof traverse of Chilam before going up a separate 25 meters and topping out in the still unclimbed Malenum project 10 meters before Chilam starts going up. The link was first made by Edu Marin and Dani Andrada in 2015 during their quest to climb Chilam Balam In total I've been trying the route on and off now for 3 seasons, starting in December 2017. I got shut down by rain the last two seasons and often just worked moves and sections that were dry here and there with long breaks in between. Mainly trying the first part as I couldn´t do the boulder after the first anchor. After finally sending part 1 this spring we returned in November and finally got a good 5 weeks to climb on it where it was all dry. I was feeling much stronger than in the spring, and could finally do the boulder after the first anchor and make all the links, but it still didn´t come easy. After sending the top from an easier start I started trying from the ground a few weeks ago, in the end climbing the first part another 8 times before finally managing to make the link on day 36 of the trip, on maybe the first day with really good conditions."

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