Janja Garnbret (SLO), who was #14 in Speed, came back in the fantastic style she is famous for by flashing all the four great dynamic boulders. All the favourites made good performances. Ranked second and third were Brooke Raboutou (USA) and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN). The only medal favourite not really coming up to her normal standard was Miho Nonaka being #8. Just ahead was Laura Rogora, who saved her day by getting one boulder in her first try just after having gotten only the zone on the first two boulders. The biggest sensation was that Speed specialist Anouck Jaubert #13 with one top.

1 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 4T4z 4 4
2 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 3T4z 4 4
3 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 3T4z 5 4
4 Coxsey Shauna (GBR) 2T4z 3 4
5 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 2T4z 5 5
6 Meshkova Viktoriia (RUS) 2T4z 8 5
7 Rogora Laura (ITA) 1T4z 1 5
8 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 1T3z 2 3
9 Pilz Jessica (AUT) 1T3z 3 5
10 Klingler Petra (SUI) 1T3z 3 8
11 Condie Kyra (USA) 1T3z 4 5
12 Mackenzie Oceania (AUS) 1T2z 3 2
13 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 1T1z 4 1
14 Krampl Mia (SLO) 0T4z 0 5
15 Chanourdie Julia (FRA) 0T3z 0 9
16 Yip Alannah (CAN) 0T2z 0 2
17 Sterkenburg Erin (RSA) 0T1z 0 1
18 Kaplina Iuliia (RUS) 0T1z 0 2
19 SONG YiLing (CHN) 0T1z 0 5
20 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL)

Lots of emotions, personal bests and big smiles in the female Speed qualification. Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) set two PB's and won the stage. She set the Olympic Record with a time of 6.97, just 0.01 seconds away from the world record. This means that the Pole has very excellent chances of qualifying for the final. The biggest frustration we saw from the world record holder Iuliia Kaplina slipping on the very last foothold when it looked like she was going to set a new world record. Miho Nonaka looked to be in superb speed shape, setting a great PB with 7.55. The big favourite to win the gold, Janja Garnbret, with a PB of 7.91, slipped in both races and got 9.41 but it actually did not look like she is in supershape. Alannah Yip's 7.99 should also be mentioned and she just might be an outsider getting into the final although she has not done any World Cups in 2021.

1 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL) 6.97 (OR)
2 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 7.12
3 SONG YiLing (CHN) 7.46
4 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 7.55
5 Kaplina Iuliia (RUS) 7.65
6 Yip Alannah (CAN) 7.99
7 Condie Kyra (USA) 8.08
8 Chanourdie Julia (FRA) 8.17
9 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 8.23
10 Klingler Petra (SUI) 8.42
11 Pilz Jessica (AUT) 8.51
12 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 8.67
13 Mackenzie Oceania (AUS) 8.83
14 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 9.44
15 Meshkova Viktoriia (RUS) 9.54
16 Coxsey Shauna (GBR) 9.65
17 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 10.01
18 Krampl Mia (SLO) 10.43
19 Rogora Laura (ITA) 10.50
20 Sterkenburg Erin (RSA) 11.10

Offical Speed personal best rankings: (It should be noted that most of the athletes have made faster times during practice and non-official competitions.)

6.96 Iuliia Kaplina RUS
7.10 YiLing Song CHI
7.12 Alexandra Miroslaw POL
7.32 Anouck Jaubert FRA

7.91 Janja Garnbret SLO
8.19 Miho Nonaka JPN
8.43 Kyra Condie USA
8.45 Oceania Mackenzie AUS
8.59 Petra Klingler SUI
8.73 Julia Chanourdie
9.11 Akiyo Noguchi JPN
9.12 Brooke Raboutou USA
9.14 Shauna Coxey GBR
9.16 Viktoria Meshkova RUS (8.64 in training)
9.16 Alannah Yip CAN
9.43 Mia Krampl SLO
9.56 Jessica Pilz AUT
10.51 Laura Rogora ITA
10.70 Chaehyun Seo KOR

12.04 Erin Sterkenburg RSA

On a spectacular lead route, Colin Duffy (USA) (c) Jon Glassberg, Jakob Schubert (AUT), Adam Ondra (CZE), Alberto Ginés López (ESP), Nathaniel Coleman (USA) and Bassa Mawem (FRA) have qualified for finals at the Olympics along with Mickael Mawem (FRA) and Tomoa Narasaki (JPN).
The lead stage was won by Jakob Schubert (AUT) who looked quite fresh all the way to the top section, reaching the same hold as Colin Duffy (42+). Alex Megos and Adam Ondra did not have their best day. While Megos seemed to have issues with the heat and struggled early on, Ondra appeared to be motoring right along until he missed the rhythm change and suddenly fell off, looking surprised. Megos missed finals, being ranked 9th. For Ondra, a score of 39+ was enough for finals. Sadly, Bassa Mawem injured himself on the biceps after only a few moves and probably won’t be able to start in finals. Link to official Qualification results

The first half of the route was relatively easy, so everyone climbed up fairly high apart from Bassa who fell due to his injury. Like in bouldering, the routesetters set the stage for a great show. All unused bolts were removed from the wall, and those remaining were protected by plastic covers. The TV presentation was much better than in Bouldering.

Lead Stage Results
1 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 2 42+ (4:02) - [Combined Rank: 4]
2 Duffy Colin (USA) 42+ (4:44) [3]
3 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 41+ [6]
4 Ondra Adam (CZE) 39+ [5]
5 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 39 [8]
6 Megos Alexander (GER) 36+ [9]
7 Pan YuFei (CHN) 36 [14]
8 McColl Sean (CAN) 35+ [17]
9 Hojer Jan (GER) 29+ [12]
10 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 29 [16]
11 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 28+ (2:24) [1]
12 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 28+ (2:33) [15]
13 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 28+ (3:09) [11]
14 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 26+ (2:11) [2]
15 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 26+ (2:29) [13]
16 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 26+ (2:34) [10]
17 Harada Kai (JPN) 25+[18]
18 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 25 (2:48)[19]
19 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 25 (3:58) [20]
20 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 7 [7]

Michael Mawem and Tomoa Naraski will climb in finals on Thursday independently of Lead results and Bassa Mawem has almost also secured a position. It is also looking good for Colin Duffy (USA), Adam Ondra (CZE), Alex Megos (GER) and Jakob Schubert (AUT). It is predicted that a score of around 400 will get you into the Top-8 final. We have added a speculated result in Lead, getting as close to 400 as possible, in order to see what more or less is needed. Remember that time will be used to split all tied result. (c) Jon Glassberg
Link to official results
1 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3 (3) | 5.95 1 (1) | 3T4z 4 5 3 pts
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) S: 2 | 5.94 B: 2 | 2T4z 6 7 4 pts
3 Mawem Bassa (FRA) S: 1| 5.45 B: 18 | 0T1z 0 4 18 pts( * 20 Lead speculation for making finals = 360)
4 Duffy Colin (USA) S: 6 | 6.23 B: 5 | 2T2z 17 12 30 pts * 14 = 420)
5 Chon Jongwon (KOR) S: 5 | 6.21 B: 10 | 1T3z 3 10 50 pts ( * 8 = 400)
6 Ondra Adam (CZE) S: 18 | 7.46 B: 3| 2T3z 7 11 54 pts ( * 8 = 432)
7 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) S: 16| 7.23 B: 4 | 2T2z 7 4 64 pts ( * 6 = 384)
8 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) S: 4 | 6.19 B: 17 | 0T1z 0 3 68 pts ( * 6 = 408)
9 Schubert Jakob (AUT) S: 12 | 6.70 B: 7 | 1T3z 2 13 84 pts ( * 5 = 420)
10 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) S: 7 | 6.32 B: 14 | 1T1z 12 4 98 pts ( * 4 = 392)
11 Hojer Jan (GER) S: 11 | 6.63 B: 9 | 1T3z 3 8 99 pts ( * 4 = 396)
12 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) S: 8 | 6.33 B: 13 | 1T2z 5 7 104 pts ( * 4 = 416)
13 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) S: 10 | 6.51 B: 11 | 1T3z 4 6 110 pts( * 4 = 440)
14 Megos Alexander (GER) S: 19| 7.47 B: 6 | 1T4z 2 15 114 pts ( * 4 = 456)
15 Cosser Christopher (RSA) S: 9| 6.48 B: 16 | 0T2z 0 15 144 pts
16 Pan YuFei (CHN) S: 20 | 7.59 B: 8 | 1T3z 2 15 160 pts
17 Harada Kai (JPN) S: 15 | 7.08 B: 12 | 1T2z 4 8 180 pts
18 McColl Sean (CAN) S: 14 | 6.93 B: 15 | 0T2z 0 3 210 pts
19 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) S: 13 | 6.71 B: 19.5 | 0T0z 0 0 253.5 pts
20 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) S: 17 | 7.34 B: 19.5 | 0T0z 0 0 331.5 pts

In a very technical Boulder stage, Mickael Mawem had an amazing round with 3 Tops in four attempts on the first three problems and won ahead of Tomoa Narasaki(JPN) and Adam Ondra (CZE). It also happens to be Mawem's 31st birthday! (c) Jon Glassberg
Alex Megos had a good round, finishing 6th. Jakob Schubert was under pressure after only having 2 zones before the last problem. He kept his cool and claimed a top on the last problem, finishing 7th.
All boulders were extremely technical and all were topped at least twice, with no ties. M1 one was a slab, M2 consisted of a very difficult shoulder/stemming move into a shoulder press. M3 was a jump into a strange press move to hold the top. M4, the steepest problem, feet first started facing the crowd, then a crack move led to the top.
It must be mentioned that the camera work and directing was very poor throughout the round, often focusing on climbers on the mat while key moments were happening on the wall.

Results
1 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3T4z 4 5
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 2T4z 6 7
3 Ondra Adam (CZE) 2T3z 7 11
4 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 2T2z 7 4
5 Duffy Colin (USA) 2T2z 17 12
6 Megos Alexander (GER) 1T4z 2 15
7 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 1T3z 2 13
8 Pan YuFei (CHN) 1T3z 2 15
9 Hojer Jan (GER) 1T3z 3 8
10 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 1T3z 3 10
11 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 1T3z 4 6
12 Harada Kai (JPN) 1T2z 4 8
13 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 1T2z 5 7
14 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 1T1z 12 4
15 McColl Sean (CAN) 0T2z 0 3
16 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 0T2z 0 15
17 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 0T1z 0 3
18 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 0T1z 0 4
19 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 0T0z 0 0
19 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 0T0z 0 0
Link to full results The lead stage begins at 2PM Euro Time.

Bassa Mawem from France has won the speed stage in Tokyo with a time of 5.45. This means that he is the first speed climbing Olympic Record holder in history. In hot and humid conditions (still well above 30ºC), Mawem has basically secured a spot in the Finals on Thursday. It can be expected that even if he finishes last in the remaining stages, 400 points are enough to make it through. His brother Mickael finished third with a time of 5.95. If he gets a good result in bouldering, we might see both Mawem brothers in finals!
Among the favourites for the gold medal, Tomoa Naraski (JPN) had by far the best result, finishing in second with a time of 5.94. He skipped his second run, which meant that Adam Ondra (CZE) raced alone.
Jakob Schubert (AUT) achieved a new PB (6.70) on every run and placed 12th, Adam Ondra finished 18th, and Alex Megos (GER) placed 19th.
Overall there seemed to be a great atmosphere with many athletes achieving personal bests.
The boulder stage begins at 11AM Euro Time.


Results:
1 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 5.45
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 5.94
3 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 5.95
4 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 6.19
5 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 6.21
6 Duffy Colin (USA) 6.23
7 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 6.32
8 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 6.33
9 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 6.48
10 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 6.51
11 Hojer Jan (GER) 6.63
12 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 6.70
13 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 6.71
14 McColl Sean (CAN) 6.93
15 Harada Kai (JPN) 7.08
16 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 7.23
17 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 7.34
18 Ondra Adam (CZE) 7.46
19 Megos Alexander (GER) 7.47
20 Pan YuFei (CHN) 7.59

Offical Speed personal best rankings: (It should be noted that most of the athletes have made faster times during practice and non-official competitions.) (c) Jon Glassberg
5.53 Rishat Khaibullin KAZ
5.57 Bassa Mawem FRA
5.78 Ludovico Fossali ITA (5.65 in Italian Cup)

6.15 Tomoa Narasaki JPN (5.73 in Japan Nationals)
6.25 Mickael Mawem FRA (5.97 in Tokyo training)
6.29 Alberto Ginés López ESP
6.34 Kai Harada JPN
6.45 Jan Hojer GER
6.46 Colin Duffy USA
6.65 Michael Piccolruaz ITA
6.72 YueFei Pan CHI
6.72 Nathaniel Coleman USA
6.80 Jongwon Chon KOR
6.83 Christopher Cosser RSA
6.99 Sean McColl CAN
7.00 Jakob Schubert AUT
7.12 Tom O'Halloran AUS
7.27 Alexsey Rubtsov RUS
7.46 Adam Ondra CZE
7.57 Alex Megos GER

It is expected that most of the ones in the lower part of the ranking will set personal bests. It just might be that some of the ones that are not among the best in Lead and Bouldering will set a new PB with 0.5 seconds. Strategically, they just might have focused most on Speed during the last months as this probably have been their best chance to get a good multiplied overall score. Alexey Rutsov has chosen the other strategy having only done six suns in 2021 including three in Tokyo.