Michael Mawem (FRA) wins Tokyo Bouldering Stage, Naraski second

Tuesday, 3 August

In a very technical Boulder stage, Mickael Mawem had an amazing round with 3 Tops in four attempts on the first three problems and won ahead of Tomoa Narasaki(JPN) and Adam Ondra (CZE). It also happens to be Mawem's 31st birthday! (c) Jon Glassberg
Alex Megos had a good round, finishing 6th. Jakob Schubert was under pressure after only having 2 zones before the last problem. He kept his cool and claimed a top on the last problem, finishing 7th.
All boulders were extremely technical and all were topped at least twice, with no ties. M1 one was a slab, M2 consisted of a very difficult shoulder/stemming move into a shoulder press. M3 was a jump into a strange press move to hold the top. M4, the steepest problem, feet first started facing the crowd, then a crack move led to the top.
It must be mentioned that the camera work and directing was very poor throughout the round, often focusing on climbers on the mat while key moments were happening on the wall.

Results
1 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3T4z 4 5
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 2T4z 6 7
3 Ondra Adam (CZE) 2T3z 7 11
4 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 2T2z 7 4
5 Duffy Colin (USA) 2T2z 17 12
6 Megos Alexander (GER) 1T4z 2 15
7 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 1T3z 2 13
8 Pan YuFei (CHN) 1T3z 2 15
9 Hojer Jan (GER) 1T3z 3 8
10 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 1T3z 3 10
11 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 1T3z 4 6
12 Harada Kai (JPN) 1T2z 4 8
13 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 1T2z 5 7
14 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 1T1z 12 4
15 McColl Sean (CAN) 0T2z 0 3
16 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 0T2z 0 15
17 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 0T1z 0 3
18 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 0T1z 0 4
19 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 0T0z 0 0
19 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 0T0z 0 0
Link to full results The lead stage begins at 2PM Euro Time.

0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date D Reply A

RELATED NEWS

NUMBERS

Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.

NUMBERS

Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …