3 August 2021
Jakob Schubert wins Lead stage, Mickael Mawem first after quali
On a spectacular lead route, Colin Duffy (USA) (c) Jon Glassberg, Jakob Schubert (AUT), Adam Ondra (CZE), Alberto Ginรฉs Lรณpez (ESP), Nathaniel Coleman (USA) and Bassa Mawem (FRA) have qualified for finals at the Olympics along with Mickael Mawem (FRA) and Tomoa Narasaki (JPN).
The lead stage was won by Jakob Schubert (AUT) who looked quite fresh all the way to the top section, reaching the same hold as Colin Duffy (42+). Alex Megos and Adam Ondra did not have their best day. While Megos seemed to have issues with the heat and struggled early on, Ondra appeared to be motoring right along until he missed the rhythm change and suddenly fell off, looking surprised. Megos missed finals, being ranked 9th. For Ondra, a score of 39+ was enough for finals. Sadly, Bassa Mawem injured himself on the biceps after only a few moves and probably wonโt be able to start in finals. Link to official Qualification results
The first half of the route was relatively easy, so everyone climbed up fairly high apart from Bassa who fell due to his injury. Like in bouldering, the routesetters set the stage for a great show. All unused bolts were removed from the wall, and those remaining were protected by plastic covers. The TV presentation was much better than in Bouldering.
Lead Stage Results
1 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 2 42+ (4:02) - [Combined Rank: 4]
2 Duffy Colin (USA) 42+ (4:44) [3]
3 Ginรฉs Lรณpez Alberto (ESP) 41+ [6]
4 Ondra Adam (CZE) 39+ [5]
5 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 39 [8]
6 Megos Alexander (GER) 36+ [9]
7 Pan YuFei (CHN) 36 [14]
8 McColl Sean (CAN) 35+ [17]
9 Hojer Jan (GER) 29+ [12]
10 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 29 [16]
11 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 28+ (2:24) [1]
12 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 28+ (2:33) [15]
13 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 28+ (3:09) [11]
14 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 26+ (2:11) [2]
15 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 26+ (2:29) [13]
16 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 26+ (2:34) [10]
17 Harada Kai (JPN) 25+[18]
18 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 25 (2:48)[19]
19 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 25 (3:58) [20]
20 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 7 [7]
The lead stage was won by Jakob Schubert (AUT) who looked quite fresh all the way to the top section, reaching the same hold as Colin Duffy (42+). Alex Megos and Adam Ondra did not have their best day. While Megos seemed to have issues with the heat and struggled early on, Ondra appeared to be motoring right along until he missed the rhythm change and suddenly fell off, looking surprised. Megos missed finals, being ranked 9th. For Ondra, a score of 39+ was enough for finals. Sadly, Bassa Mawem injured himself on the biceps after only a few moves and probably wonโt be able to start in finals. Link to official Qualification results
The first half of the route was relatively easy, so everyone climbed up fairly high apart from Bassa who fell due to his injury. Like in bouldering, the routesetters set the stage for a great show. All unused bolts were removed from the wall, and those remaining were protected by plastic covers. The TV presentation was much better than in Bouldering.
Lead Stage Results
1 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 2 42+ (4:02) - [Combined Rank: 4]
2 Duffy Colin (USA) 42+ (4:44) [3]
3 Ginรฉs Lรณpez Alberto (ESP) 41+ [6]
4 Ondra Adam (CZE) 39+ [5]
5 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 39 [8]
6 Megos Alexander (GER) 36+ [9]
7 Pan YuFei (CHN) 36 [14]
8 McColl Sean (CAN) 35+ [17]
9 Hojer Jan (GER) 29+ [12]
10 Cosser Christopher (RSA) 29 [16]
11 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 28+ (2:24) [1]
12 Piccolruaz Michael (ITA) 28+ (2:33) [15]
13 Khaibullin Rishat (KAZ) 28+ (3:09) [11]
14 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 26+ (2:11) [2]
15 Rubtsov Aleksey (RUS) 26+ (2:29) [13]
16 Chon Jongwon (KOR) 26+ (2:34) [10]
17 Harada Kai (JPN) 25+[18]
18 Fossali Ludovico (ITA) 25 (2:48)[19]
19 O'Halloran Tom (AUS) 25 (3:58) [20]
20 Mawem Bassa (FRA) 7 [7]
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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