Barbara Zangerl has sent Solitary Souls direct exit (8c) in Arco after trying it a dozen times. The Austrian has the most impressive female multi-discipline ticklist in the world. Last year, she sent the trad line Meltdown (8c+) and she has done five bolted routes graded 8c+/9a or 9a. Her big wall resume is elite and she completed boulders to 8B until she incurred problems with her back.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I had a great time in Arco. Solitary Souls (8c+) is a route from Alfredo Webber and Adam [Ondra] did the onsight of that pumpy steep line. I just did the direct exit which is easier and a bit shorter. I would be psyched to get on the main line which is longer and adds another pumpy crux to the line.

What is your next plan?
In general, my plan in winter is to train mostly in the gym and I work a bit more in the hospital at this time of the year.

How does a normal training week look?
I train 5 times a week, mostly freestyle… lots of time in the bouldering gym.

Any big travel plans for 2024?
In summer we would be psyched to go on an expedition to Pakistan or India…. We are still planning… not sure yet… and in fall back to Yosemite.

Babsi has previously commented on how it is possible to focus on so many disciplines at the same time?
"For me personally this is the best way to stay motivated all the time. I can‘t really imagine focusing just on one style all the time. Maybe I would be stronger then but it would be less fun, I guess. I love all the different styles of climbing. For me, it is not all about climbing hard. I love the mental challenge in trad climbing and the adventures in big wall climbing. Climbing an easier graded route which is hard to protect can be a harder challenge compared to climbing a hard-graded sport climbing route. So it is all relative. I just really like the learning process of trying out something new."

David Bermudez Carbonell, who did 13 routes 8c or 8c+ in 2023, has sent Esclatamasters (9a) in Perles & Canelles. (c) Sputnik Climbing

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This week I am with my parents on holiday. The first day we went to Oliana and I could do Fish eye 8c on my second go. The next days I tried Esclatamasters and I progressed really fast on the route and finally on my 6th attempt in total I could send it. Today I had to make a strategy because it was very hot and this route has a slab with very small holds that require a cold temperature. Anyway, the route is amazing and combines an overhanging and physical part with a very technical slab. I am very happy!! Now, I will enjoy the rest of the days trying to climb onsight.


When David did his first 8c+, last spring, we asked his mother Isabel what a normal climbing week looks like. “David normally trains in a climbing wall 3 times a week. He loves to do infinite movement traverses, although he trains in a self-taught way. The climbing wall where we train has nothing to do with the current climbing walls, it is a climbing wall set up by a group of climbers with density walls very focused on the transfer to the rock. Nobody tells David what he has to do and he decides what he will do each day. Without a trainer, nutritionists or psychologists... [This has changed as he since couple of months he is part of Sputnikclimbing.]

He is also passionate about watching videos of climbers of all times and loves to climb everywhere in the house (including the living room table 😂). His talent, motivation and passion for climbing make him achieve the accomplishments he is making with his small stature and young age (13 years old). Best of all, he always enjoys the process.

David climbs every weekend and is a climber who always gives his all, he climbs at the top of his game on every pitch. He has a lot of endurance and self-confidence. So as soon as he finds the right method to solve the hardest pitches on the routes, he never fails.

He loves to onsight climb, and although we usually climb on weekends regularly in Cuenca, he usually tries some onsight climbing (below his grade) before trying his project. Also when we go on a climbing trip on holidays, he always climbs onsight.”

Gio Placci, who did four 9a+' in 2022, has repeated Daniel Woods’ 4-Low (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Soft with the new beta. Three days of tries. Really fun climb.”(c) Crimp Films

What was the new beta you used?
The Woods’ beta was to make the first move with the knee bar. The new beta is to do also the second move with the knee bar.

What is coming up next?
I’m training for the lead World Cup right now, doing a lot of spray wall. I am really excited for the Lead season. In between I go some days to Bavona. I would like to send Captain Nemo (8C) and Primitivo (8C).

Why did you not compete or log any routes in 2023?
I had a finger tendon injury until September. I could train a bit but avoid crimps. It was the hardest period in my life and now I am so happy to be able to climb and train again. In October, I started to train hard again and step by step get back in shape. I decided with my coach to first build the strength. I came back in shape in about 30 days.

In the last ten weeks, the Italian has also logged five 8B+, including The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C). Noteworthy is also that he finished the competition season 2022 by being #21 in Edinburgh.

Gergő Vályi jumps two grades by doing Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. The 19-year-old Hungarian has won six European Youth Cups and has previously sent six 8c’s.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your trip?
It is my first time in Spain, and I came here with a campervan for a month. My main goal was Estado Critico because I haven't climbed 9a before and I thought, this 35-meter-long endurance climbing would be perfect for me. I needed 7 tries for the send. After the 6th try, when I fell from the last hard move, I knew, I would send it the next day. I am really happy to send one of the king lines of Siurana. And now, in the next weeks, I will try to climb a lot of routes between 8a and 8c, and check the moves in something harder for which I will come back.

What are your 2024 plans?
I will compete on the lead world cups and I really hope to make it to the semifinal and I want to climb more outdoors and climb some more 9a or harder.

Sera Gearhart has completed Power Slave (8A+) in Red Rock (NV). The 26-year-old is #6 in the 8a ranking game after having done eight boulders 8A+ or 8B the last 12 months.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I thought Power Slave was really hard. Last season I fell off the end move really late in the year and it got too hot to come back. This year I thought it would be easier but every move still felt like effort. I fell off the last move again the session before sending. Two of my friends Allison and Lucy encouraged me to try the feet first beta for the end because it's much less powerful. I reworked the end beta this way and then struggled to even get there once. I finally sent almost 5 hours into the session, the second time making it through the crux.

Iris Bielli has repeated Stefano Carnati’s Endangered (8c) in Canzo. “The climbing is technical on small, slippery holds that require cold temperatures and crispy air. On Saturday, I finally found the perfect conditions and was able to climb this beautiful line. (8 tries in total).”

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing at the age of 14 after practising artistic gymnastics for several years. Initially, I only used to go climbing at the crag and in the gym, but then, after three years, I discovered multi-pitch climbing and became passionate about it. I like visiting new places and experiencing the feeling of freedom and emptiness under my feet while climbing big walls. I currently study Environmental engineering at university and in my free time I mostly enjoy onsight climbing and challenging myself on slab and technical routes.