24 January 2024

Gio Placci completes 4-Lo (8C)

Gio Placci, who did four 9a+' in 2022, has repeated Daniel Woods’ 4-Lo (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Soft with the new beta. Three days of tries. Really fun climb.”(c) Crimp Films

What was the new beta you used?
The Woods’ beta was to make the first move with the knee bar. The new beta is to do also the second move with the knee bar.

What is coming up next?
I’m training for the lead World Cup right now, doing a lot of spray wall. I am really excited for the Lead season. In between I go some days to Bavona. I would like to send Captain Nemo (8C) and Primitivo (8C).

Why did you not compete or log any routes in 2023?
I had a finger tendon injury until September. I could train a bit but avoid crimps. It was the hardest period in my life and now I am so happy to be able to climb and train again. In October, I started to train hard again and step by step get back in shape. I decided with my coach to first build the strength. I came back in shape in about 30 days.

In the last ten weeks, the Italian has also logged five 8B+, including The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C). Noteworthy is also that he finished the competition season 2022 by being #21 in Edinburgh.
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