26 January 2024

Babsi Zangerl does Solitary Souls direct exit (8c)

Barbara Zangerl has sent Solitary Souls direct exit (8c) in Arco after trying it a dozen times. The Austrian has the most impressive female multi-discipline ticklist in the world. Last year, she sent the trad line Meltdown (8c+) and she has done five bolted routes graded 8c+/9a or 9a. Her big wall resume is elite and she completed boulders to 8B until she incurred problems with her back.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I had a great time in Arco. Solitary Souls (8c+) is a route from Alfredo Webber and Adam [Ondra] did the onsight of that pumpy steep line. I just did the direct exit which is easier and a bit shorter. I would be psyched to get on the main line which is longer and adds another pumpy crux to the line.

What is your next plan?
In general, my plan in winter is to train mostly in the gym and I work a bit more in the hospital at this time of the year.

How does a normal training week look?
I train 5 times a week, mostly freestyleโ€ฆ lots of time in the bouldering gym.

Any big travel plans for 2024?
In summer we would be psyched to go on an expedition to Pakistan or Indiaโ€ฆ. We are still planningโ€ฆ not sure yetโ€ฆ and in fall back to Yosemite.

Babsi has previously commented on how it is possible to focus on so many disciplines at the same time?
"For me personally this is the best way to stay motivated all the time. I canโ€˜t really imagine focusing just on one style all the time. Maybe I would be stronger then but it would be less fun, I guess. I love all the different styles of climbing. For me, it is not all about climbing hard. I love the mental challenge in trad climbing and the adventures in big wall climbing. Climbing an easier graded route which is hard to protect can be a harder challenge compared to climbing a hard-graded sport climbing route. So it is all relative. I just really like the learning process of trying out something new."
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