Dimitri Vogt has repeated Alexander Rohr’s Inferno (9a) in Gimmelwald (extrem) and a few days later he did the eight pitches L'Histoire sans Fin (8b+) in Bas-Valais.

Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
The route Inferno (9a) combines the crux of Jungfraumarathon with the upper crux of Gimmelexpress, which makes it a nice endurance test piece. I had a finger injury a few weeks ago and the route was ideal for getting back into shape, as it is quite steep and therefore has relatively large holds. Last weekend, despite the heat, it worked out and I was able to clip the chain with pumped forearms.

From the first time I saw a topo and pictures of this multi-pitch, I knew immediately that I wanted to try this route. The route climbs the majestic corner pillar of the Petit Clocher du Portalet, which is made of incredibly beautiful orange granite with cracks, corners and slabs. L'histoire sans fin is probably one of the best granite routes in the world at this level of difficulty. When Samuel, a good colleague from Valais, asked me if I would like to attempt the route with him, I was of course immediately on board. After a tiring approach with a lot of luggage, we set off directly onto the route and began to check out the difficult pitches. The route starts with a perfect 40m 7c+ crack, which is quite pumpy and secured with cams. This is followed by several lengths between 7c-8b+ which are definitely tough. It quickly becomes clear that a lot of the climbing on these lengths takes place on the feet. The pitches are relatively flat, but the footholds are very tiny, and the handholds are usually bad. In addition, it seems impossible to memorize all the passages, as there seems to be an infinite number of possible foothold positions. Nevertheless, I try to memorize as many details as possible when bouldering out.

After two days on the route, we take a two-day break. I first need time to process what I've experienced. I was definitely impressed by the difficulty of the route. It seems as if there is no way to cheat unsafe sections with somewhat more powerful solutions. The route demands complete trust in your feet and really good climbing. After this break, we climb again with the aim of just seeing how it goes. I reckon my chances of success are slim. Several places still felt very unsafe when I was bouldering out and I’m far from remembering all all the foot- and handhold sequences of the difficult lengths. Nevertheless, I am motivated to give it a go. I manage the first difficult pitch, the 40m crack, at the first attempt, placing all the cams as I climb. I feel fresh and light. Then something happens that I've only ever experienced on multi-pitch routes. I get into a flow and with every pitch I complete, my movements improve and I climb with more confidence and focus. Without hesitation, I climb passages that still felt very difficult and unsafe when I was checking them out. With this focus and confidence, I climb one pitch after another on the first attempt. At the top of the last difficult pitch, I realize what I have just achieved. I have just made a fall-free ascent from l'histoire sans fin.

Mattea Pötzi, who got the bronze in the last World Cup, has completed Et on tuera tous les Affreux (Le Cadre original) (8c+) in Céüse. ”5 days and 14 attempts later I could clip the chains of this amazing climb! First 8c+ (did no 'real' 8c before ;) ) and it went down pretty quickly after I figured out all the moves. Gradewise: first crux might be easier for us small folk (really high foot) but it evens out in the second crux, where I had to step really, really high again to make it work. Anyway, I'll just go with 8c+, as this seems to be the consensus after broken hold :)” (c) Miro Enzenberger

Sara Šimekova, #8 in the Euro Boulder/Lead Youth Championship last year, has done Rustam Direct (8B) in Holstejn. “Climbed on second session. For smaller people the end is also quite uncomfortable. The hardest part for me was to connect it all together.” (c) Hanka Šikulová

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Honestly, I didn't expect this one 😅 After some disappointing European competitions, I went bouldering outside just to clear my head, try some moves, and for a moment, stop thinking about training, pushing, expectations...

On the first session, I did all the moves, but I knew that linking them together will be a bit harder. During my second session, it somehow all fell into place, my mind and body worked together, and I just knew exactly what to do and what my body wants.

Considering the fact that my skin started to hurt and we had already spent some time trying the boulder, I knew that I didn't have much more attempts. I also knew that after that session, regardless of whether I sent it or not, I'd head home and might not get another chance to try it until autumn. Yet I was absolutely okay with that, I was enjoying the process, feeling happy about the progress I made, and that I had a chance to try some cool moves.

Biggest thanks belong to my coach Tomáš Binter st. without whom I wouldn't have the physical foundation to do it in the first place. He also helped me a lot with tuning the beta and tactics. I also can't forget to mention he drove me there and spent his free time with two teenage girls. Big thanks to @hani_sikulova for mental support, great company, and photos. Without you, we wouldn't have had bouldermats and probably wouldn't have been able to try the boulder. Thanks also to my sponsors who support me on my journey and help me climb harder and recover better by providing me not just training material but also clothes, services, snacks and much more. Thanks also to @climbingjane who gave me all the information like where to park, how to find the boulder, etc. 🙏 Last but not least, thanks to my family and everyone who cheers for me ❤)

What has been your focus the last year and how much have you been climbing outdoors?
During the last year, we didn't focus much on rock climbing. My priority is competition, so outdoor climbing is just for fun. Last autumn, I spent some days lead climbing in Osp and Spain after the competition season ended. However, aside from that, I haven't been spending time on rocks because I decided to focus more on training and indoor climbing to be better prepared.

Michaela Kiersch continues her sending train in Rocklands by doing The Arch (8B).

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried The Arch after a long day of other projects and worked out my beta in the dark but was way too tired to send. I did it second try in my 2nd sesh. At the end of another long day of other projects 😉

How do you like bouldering in Rocklands?
I think going to any new area feels exciting and overwhelming because of all the possible climbs to try. So far (aside from the rain) it’s been incredible. Pretty much my bouldering is limited to Switzerland and Rocklands 😂😂😂.

How do you choose which boulders to try?
I created a to-do list based on classics in the area as well as climbs in the grade range I was interested in. And then I started going down the list and trying all the climbs which were close to each other. I’m in great shape so luckily most of my sends have happened in 1 session.

Eva Hammelmüller, who was #24 in last World Cup, has in three tries each, done Dragée Fuca (8c) and Idée fixe (8c) in Briançon. In total, the 24-year-old has now done 28 routes 8c to 9a. (c) Felix Mast

How is it to combine World cups and outdoors?
I spent most of the pre-season preparing for the World Cups, so I didn’t get to spend too much time climbing outside. I think I made some progress regarding my fitness, but I couldn’t really bring it on the wall at the World Cups. Now, I am just happy to climb outside again, and I am so psyched to climb all those amazing routes in the Briançon region!

Jenn DeBellis, with seven 8A’s under her belt, has completed Law and Order (8A+) in Rocklands. “A special treat to top out to the sun setting over the valley.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was surprised last season to find a relatively static method to work for me, and I was inspired to finish what I started when coming back this season. It felt like a perfect Rocklands experience to top out the boulder, after a bit of a fight, to a vibrant sunset.

Michaela Kiersch continues her sending train in Rocklands and after two weeks she has now done ten boulders 8A and beyond. Today she flashed Light Saber (8A) and later sent Tea with Elmarie 8A (+). (c) Kevin McNally

Tara Hayes, who did her first 8B last year, has completed Isles Of Wonder (8B) in Ogwen valley. The 27-year-old finished her competition career in 2022 after being part of the GB team for 14 years. Her best results were a silver in the Youth World Championship and in 2019 she was #12 in the European Championship.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was psyched to try Isles of Wonder as soon as I saw a video, it's a straight up line with cool moves in a great location. I first tried it last summer and after a couple of sessions knew it was within my capabilities. I was hitting the last hold (excluding the top out) from the start so I was confident it would go. I then went to Rocklands for a month and unfortunately didn't get back to try it until May this year. After 1 session of re-learning the moves, I felt like I was in good enough shape to get it done. I knew I needed to try it consistently to give myself the best chance so I ended up having about 7 sessions in the last month. I felt closer each time but still lacked the belief to stick the last hold (it looks really far when you're setting up for it!), despite feeling OK in isolation. Thankfully on Friday I was in the right headspace to get it done and managed to execute the moves really well and find some extra try hard. Overall it's by far the most commitment I've put in.

Piotr Oleszczuk had a great start of his trip to Rocklands by flashing two 8A’s and Hipster Whale (8B). Yesterday, he sent one 8A+ and four 8B’s including a flash of Moon shadow (8B).

Can you tell us more about the 8B flashes and your trip?
I came to Rocklands for a month. For the first 5 days, the weather wasn't on our side, and climbing was more about finding dry and climbable rocks. Fortunately, the weather improved a bit, and we could start climbing the classics. Hipster Whale was one of the boulders I had my eye on.

That day, I simply warmed up as usual, checked out what I could from the ground, and then tried from the bottom to test the first few moves, which seemed the hardest. I didn't set up any camera because I didn't expect I'd be able to flash an 8B. It turned out that the initially difficult moves seemed easier than I thought, and shortly after, I found myself on top of the boulder. :)

Three days later, on a rainy day, I went to The Coop sector, where the only dry boulder was Moonshadow. This time, I recorded all my attempts. Regarding this boulder, I had a feeling it might suit me, because crimps, long moves and heel-toe jams are the style I feel best at, so this time in the back of my head I wanted my first go to be as good as possible. I warmed up again on the dry parts of the surrounding rocks, checked what I could from the ground, gave it a try, and did everything just as I planned.

I watched videos. I have a phone full of screen recorded YouTube uncuts with beta for every boulder I want to try in an area, so I only used that 😅. My friend also gave it a few tries before me to tell me how it feels :)

During the attempt, to make it more interesting, it started raining again. So, when I got past the difficult part, it was raining on my face, the holds on the top slab were damp, and an unprotectable tree awaited below. Fortunately, I managed not to fall on the 6B topout and did the whole thing on the first try. This ascent was the beginning of what turned out to be the most successful day in my climbing career so far. By the end of the day, I had completed three other 8Bs (one of them almost flashing again) and one 8A+.