Loic Zehani has done his fourth 9a+ FA in 2021, Anesthésie in Fetid Beach, which is a 60 move link up of old routes he has done. The 19-year-old, who did his first 9a in 2015, has done 35 routes 9a to 9b.
"Anesthésie is a resistance route on one and two fingers pockets. The feet are rare. It starts with "Corrida", crosses "Genocide", goes up in "H5N1" and crosses on the beautiful pillar of "Syndrome". "Corrida" is a 9a bolted and climbed by my father in 2010. It is very violent on the fingers. In 2019 it took me 6 sessions to get to the anchor and I found it hard! Note that there is still the possibility of "playing" again by starting with an 8a boulder or an 8b boulder in a roof with one-finger pockets."
1. Kokoro Fujii JPN 44
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 33
3. Manuel Cornu FRA 23 (2)
4. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 23 (7)
5. Nimrod Marcus ISR 2 (9)
6. Anze Peharc SLO 2 (10)
karoline sinnhuber has done her 34th 8A+, Zimalis Alexandra in Silvretta and there is a great video on her Insta. In the 8a ranking game, the former competition climber is #3. "Nice one! Morphooooo, but climbs nice with the short girl beta‘. Left crimp needs so much skin :(" (c) Fabian Leu
Gianluca Vighetti, who two weeks ago become the youngest in the world to have done a 9a, has done the Puro Dreaming 8c+/9a in Arco.
"Last weekend, after TCT (9a) went to Arco to try Puro Dreaming. I thought that route would have been kinda my style because it is endurance with good rests in between. After my first try, I understood that it was absolutely possible and easier than TCT. Today the weather was terrible, all the holds were humid. Anyhow, on my first try, I fell higher than all previous attempts but the hold was completely wet, so I tried to dry it with some paper towels and it worked. Two hours later I did it in the rain. I'm really happy because I did this dream line in only two weekends."
What are your plans for this autumn and winter?
Maybe Thunder ribes 9a. It starts with Puro Dreaming's first crux and then there is a boulder at the end. This Winter at Sessi, a crag near my house, there are some bouldery routes that I want to free, from 8b+/8c to maybe 9a I also think that Pure Dreaming plus (9a+) is possible but really hard.
Mathieu Bouyoud has done the FA of Team frisouille 9a+ in La Balme. "It is a very old technical project bolted by Cyrille Bouchard, a local climber. It is 30 meters long and shares the first five bolts with an 8c. I tried it for the first time in 2013 and since I have tried it every September when it is all dry and have cold conditions. So happy to finish the job 🙏"
Previously, the 31-year-old has done 27 9a's and one 9a+. The latter was a FA he did in 2015, which is still unrepeated and that goes also for some of his 12 9a FAs.
Ramon Julian Puigblanque, one of the best Lead competition climbers in the history, reports on Insta that he has done Wild West 9a/+ in Margalef. The 39-year-old has previously done 73 routes 8c+/9a and harder meaning he is #4 on that list. The 158 cm tall is well known for his hard gradings and in his scorecard he has just 51 routes 9a and harder recorded.
Katie Lamb has done her second 8B+, New base line in Magic Woods. In the 8a ranking game, the 24-year-old is #2. "Changed shirts and found some try hard. Perfect finish to a week in the woods with keen and the euro trip. Scalers gon scale." (c) Keenan Takahashi
Natalia Grossman, who won the qualification and the semi, is the new Boulder World Champion after having topped all boulders in seven attempts. Three of the boulders she flashed and she was actually in another league and as usually smiling her way up to the top. Runner-up was Camilla Moroni who needed 13 attempts and she was so happy so she started crying. Overall it was possibly the best female Boulder final for many years and Stasa Gejo got the bronze by doing two bronzes. Chris Danielson and his route setting team were again spot on creating spectacular boulders where we often did see different beta. (c) Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC
1. Natalia Grossman USA 44 (7)
2. Camilla Moroni ITA 44 (13)
3. Stasa Gejo SRB 24
4. Elena Krasovskaia RUS 23 (2)
5. Brooke Raboutou USA 23 (3)
6. Andrea Kümin SUI 13
It should be mention that Natalia is also #1 in the Boulder World Cup when only one event remains and her worst result is #3 in Boulder. In the Lead WC, she was runner up after having been Top-3 in the last four competitions. Add to that eleven boulders 8A to 8B and it is easy to already say who have made the biggest breakthrough in 2021. Here is a video presentation of the smiling climber.
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Hamish McArthur was the big sensation in the semi, being the only one topping. The 19-year-old who was #7 in Boulder in Moscow, has previously been #19 as his best in a World Cup but last month, he won both Lead and Boulder in the Youth World Championship also in Moscow. Other than that, all the fav…
Chaehyon Seo (17), who has been Top-3 in all of her previous seven World Cups, was the only athlete to top out both the qualification routes in Moscow. Natalia Grossman, Laura Rogora and Lucka Rakovec were runner-ups topping out one route each. Among the male, Tomoa Narasaki won the qualification ah…
Kokoro Fujii was the only one topping the first boulder. In fact, he flashed it at the same time no other did get the zone. Then, after he had done the followin…
Three days of climbing, yoga, film screenings and live music, a true celebration of mountaineering culture. Siurana Climbing Festival is a great opportunity to enjoy this rock climbing paradise with the community. Tickets on sale here.
Tomoa Narasaki made three tops in seven tries during the semifinal which was one attempt less than Manu Cornu in second place. The other four qualifying to the finals, 16.40 Euro Time, were; Nimrod Marcus, Kokoro Fujii, Anze Peharc and Alexey Rubtsov. Noteworthy is that Japan got four males in the T…
Yannick Flohé and Kokoro Fujii won their respective group in the World Championship Boulder qualification, with Kokoro the only one topping out all five boulders. Tomoa Narasaki and Mejdi Schalck were the tied #3. Only seven of the Olympians participated out of which three did not make the Top-20 se…
Natalia Grossman and Brooke Raboutou won their respective group when the female Boulder qualification started. Many of the big stars like all the three medalist…
Natalia Kalucka and Danyil Boldyrev are the new Speed World Champions. Boldyrev, who also got the gold in 2014, won his first final race with 0.004 seconds and …
We are happy to release an updated and improved version of the gallery feature. With this new release, we've re-introduced the upload and edit features (in prof…