GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
News   Numbers   Year
 
 
VBlog #3 Ondra in America  Facebook
 

 
 
Vblog #2 Ondra in America  Facebook
 

 
 
JOB OPPORTUNITY for UX / UI Designers  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture8a and Vertical-Life are hiring: We’re looking for motivated User Experience / User Interface Designers for mobile and web projects!

If you love climbing as well as designing user experiences, this could be your chance to combine your greatest passions. You will be joining our highly motivated team of climbers, business strategists, product managers, designers, engineers, and merchandisers. You will be working on user experience strategies for our existing apps and websites, and for new projects from the ground up. Get in touch to receive detailed information about the job.

Send your application, CV and portfolio to: careers@vertical-life.info

 
 
Energica Cosmica 9a+ FA by Ale Zeni  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"Energia Cosmica is the name of the route that I had bolted one year ago in the Bilico’s crag in the Canali valley (Dolomites). This place is simply wonderful and is near my home in the mountains. The approach is one hour and twenty minutes but all the routes are amazing and is perfect if you like slab climbing. Now the crag have seven routes from 8a to 9a+.

My favorite climbing style is the slab and Energia Cosmica is my hardest slab route ever, a lot more difficult than Bain de Sang 9a and Bimba luna 9a/+ that I had done in 2017 in few attempts. For this route I did somthing like 60 attempts and 20 days on the route and I think that could be my first 9a+. I hope that one day someone try to do the first repetition. I’m very happy to have completed this challenge, the perfect slab in the perfect place with the perfect rock!"

 
 
Rise 9a+ FA by Sachi Amma  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSachi Amma stopped competing after he won the World Cup in 2014. Next year he reached his goal to do ten routes 9a or harder. Then in 2016 he stopped doing hard routes. ""I can not find any value to be a better person by comparing myself with other climbers. That is why I stopped competing and climbing hard routes. Why do I need to be better than the others?" Changing horizon interview.

Now he rises again but no grade on his Insta so we had to beg for it. In total he has now done eleven 9a+ and two 9b's.


"This route is in Shirakabe Face area, 30m long almost vertical with 16 bolts. I bolted original line this April but it was too difficult for me. So I made a connection to the route “Akirameruna” (No Surrender, from Kenji Iiyama 7c+). Original part is 7 bolts, about 20 moves of hard 8b+ then you directly go to a 4 moves 8A+ before continuing into “Akirameruna”. Crux move is from two micro crimps to far under cling. The wall is vertical so you need to be strong on your finger and sensitive for the movement.

I started working from ground from middle of October but kept falling at the crux move. After about 25days of working on it, I finally stuck that move on beautiful sunny, cold and windy day in this November 15th. It was beautiful days with Autumn leaves.

In Japanese, Kanji, Climb(登) and Rise(昇) are same pronunciation. We normally use Climb(登) for climbing. But I found that if you are really into the climbing, you are out of control by yourself. I think it is not climb but rise. This route taught me this. I would love to finish the original line in near future. So many things to climb in Japan!"

 
 
Chromosome X 9a (8c+) by Alexander Rohr  (3) Facebook
 

Alexander Rohr, who previously has done four 9a, has done Chromosome X in Charmey giving it a personal grade of 8c+. "Unfortunately fell in the last hard move in my second go and again in try 3 and 4 yesterday..... 2 degrees is just too cold! Did it first try today.... Never 9a but a good route and a cool resistant style on small holds..."

In regards the two different sequences to the right by FA Pirmin Bertle and first repeater Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi used to the left, Alexander found a method in between. He also says that Chromosome Y, which Adam Ondra flashed, feels harder.

 
 
Olympic prediction  Facebook
 

The qualification to Tokyo 2020 will start in just six months and here is the 8a prediction of the final ranking.

1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN - Miho Nonaka JPN
2. Adam Ondra CZE - Janja Garnbret SLO
3. Jakob Schubert AUT - Jessica Pilz AUT
4. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN - Akiyo Noguchi JPN
5. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA - Stasa Geijo SER
6. Jernej Kruder SLO - Jain Kim KOR

It should be noted that max two from each country is allowed to participate so here are some Japanese names with almost equal chances to get a spot and also become Top-6: Meichi Narasaki, Kai Harada, Kokoro Fujii, Keita Dohi, Futaba Ito, Mei Kotake.

 
 
La Cabane au Canada 9a by Katherin Choong  Facebook
 

 
 
The Anthem 8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who previously has done four 8B's, has done her tenth 8A+ The Anthem in Zillertal, in just three sessions. "After falling from the lip last week I finally did it! Quick ascent today, thank god I don‘t have to hike up there again hahaha."

"@my next plans: Not sure yet. I‘ll definitely be in Ticino again after xmas for 11 days. @comps: Definitely trying to climb as many boulder worldcups as possible depending on how it goes I‘ll decide what 2020 brings."

In the very last World Cup boulder this year she was #8 in Munich.

 
 
Magic Line 8c+ trad by Lonnie Kauk  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRock & Ice report that Lonnie Kauk has once again repeated his father's Magic Line in Yosemite, upgrading it to 8c+ as he placed all gear on lead.

Ron Kauk did the first ascent in 1996 and Lonnie did the first repeat in 2016, both with preplaced gear, i.e. pink point. (c) Lonnie's Insta.

The logic with the upgrade is basically that it is harder to climb a trad route placing the gear also because sometimes some of the holds are blocked. Back in the days when sport climbing was created, you were also supposed to place the quick draws on lead and as a matter of a fact, until like 15 years ago, this was for many the way to go for onsights. One of the reason why a trad 8c+ is considered as harder than a sport 8c+ is because of this.

Until now, no 9a trad route has been established and there exist only a couple 8c+ in the world, out of which two in Yosemite, including Beth Rodden's Meltdown.

 
 
Illya and Pirmin comments the 9a?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureWe have previously reported that Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done the first repeat of Pirmin Bertle's Chromosome X in Chamery becoming the youngest person to have climbed 9a. "My first try of the grade. Perfect route. My beta is totally different from Pirmins."

Illya has also presented a video describing graphically how their two betas deviated. Pirmin has checked the video and is very impressed saying Illyas (160 cm) lower new sequence to the right is harder but the upper one to the left is easier.

- Chromosome X (soft 9a) is kind of an elimination and that is why we took it out of the topo. Using Illyas holds and sequences are possibly as hard as the original one and a very impressive ascent. We will see what future taller repeaters think of the grade if you keep left all the time?

The 13 year old has been very open with how he did and says he can not suggest a grade of his beta due to lack of experience of these grades.

- This trip was full of surprises. I did not expect this crag to be so beautiful and diverse. I also did not expect the routes and even parts of the routes to be so different by types of climbing. Based on this, I don’t understand why that area is still not popular because, in addition to everything that is mentioned above, there is huge amount of fabulous hiking tracks and landscapes. In addition to, there is a big range of grades, which is acceptable for family vacations.

Speaking of the route, it astonished me. Although I could do every move in the lower part, (using Pirmins beta), I couldn't combine it. Quite the same situation happened with the upper part.One move I could not do. So that is the reason why I made a totally different beta.

 
 
Parking/Access fee, credit and # to keep landowners secure and happy  Facebook
 

The climbing community should be grateful to all landowners out there but it is seldom we can show our appreciation. Instead, sometimes a fraction of the climbers misbehave and make the landowners want to close down the crag. In some crags, the local club has agreed with the landowner to put up a box where you voluntary could pay a parking fee. Often this does not work especially as we do not bring cash so often and because such fee is anonymous.

Lysekils climbing club, on the west coast in Sweden, has made an agreement with two landowners, who has invited climbers to park on their property, to set up signs including a mobile number to pay a voluntary parking fee of Euro 2. While you pay the 2 Euros you can also include a personal message saying - Thank you! Have a nice day.

Getting two such messages per day during the summer will increase the chances of keeping the landowner secure and happy with the cars and climbing on his ground. Their visitors is not just anonymous but appreciating individuals from different countries. Another way to may the landowners happy could also be to just # your Insta with the crag name. Imagine how fun it could be to check this out for the land owners as well as making him proud.

 
 
8B by Moritz Welt in Frankenjura  Facebook
 

 
 
Halls & Walls in Nürnberg 23-24/11  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe German Alpine Club organize Halls & Walls in Nürnberg 23-24/11 including 15 lectures and product presentations focusing indoor climbing. In total there are more than 120 exhibitors listed out of which many are producing climbing holds. On Friday there is also a party and on Saturday after work bouldering and a World Cup simulation.

 
 
L'isola che non c'è 9a by David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg has done the second ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder route L'isola che non c'è 9a in Amden from 2009 after some eight days of work. (c) Lars Scharl

"Fred didn’t give it a grade, just said it lies somewhere around the 9th french grade. David proposes 9a for a powerful Fb 8A boulder (so called “Cavernicole”) at the start, a Fb 7th graded traverse into a horizontal rest on a mini jug with heel-toe cam followed by a long and powerful Fb 8A+ boulder with spectacular swing and feet forward sequence at the very end. You sit start on crash pads and finish with a rope approx. 10 meters above the ground." More comments on Insta.

 
 
"Caving" anchors should not be placed on routes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBased on an incident where the webbing of a quickdraw was cut after six sideway falls, the normal hanger was replaced with a Raumer "caving" anchor, see picture. The idea was to move out the quick draw so that the webbing should have less contact with the sharp granite just below the hanger.

Although such hanger can be used in a top anchor, creating less rope drag as the quick draw or the screw carabiner get perpendicular, this hanger is not designed for dynamic load. Further more, it is important that the load stays downwards. The "caving" hanger could put the quick draw in a bad position which can lead to ruptures, i.e. carabiner breakage.

Emanuele Pellizzari, who is selling Kinobi bolts etc since 15 years, explains the risk which also Raumer, the manufacture of the bolt, have confirmed.

"That hanger is not meant for climbing falls. It is meant for static load with a clear direction of force. In fact it keeps the biner perpendicular to the route, like in belays/rappels. It should be removed and replaced with a regular hanger. This is a typical case of mis-use by the equipper."​

What is your best advice if the local club do not want to chop the bolt and drill a new hole? What about replacing the having hanger with an anchor with two rings?

 
 
Västervik's best boulders  Facebook
 


A Nordic Voyage • Bouldering in Vastervik, Sweden • Part 2 from Eliot Stephens on Vimeo.

 
 
Meteora in Greece  Facebook
 

 
 
Spicy Dumpling 9a by Jonathan Siegrist  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist has done his 29th 9a, Spicy Dumpling in Yangshuo. "Fickle boulder problem to an amazing endurance finish without good rest. Finding acceptable conditions is still the crux!" (c) Tara Kerzner

In the 8a ranking game, Jonathan is #4 also including Jumbo Love 9b.

 
 
Vblog #1 from Ondra's America trip  Facebook
 

 
 
A maze of death 8A+ by Katie Lamb  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatie "Lamb" Ledecky has done her third 8A+, A maze of death in Bishop which just took her three sessions. "Very technical movement on bad feet. The hardest part is figuring out the foot beta."

The 21 year old has been climbing since she was 8 years old and being a teenager she did win the nationals a few times. Her next goal is to do Mandala.

 
 
Ondra's Just Do It 8c+ onsight story  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has described his onsight of Just Do It 8c+ at Smith Rocks with a great picture of Bernardo Gimenez. Good news is that they also got it on video.

"It was freaking windy, but I was hoping that down at the base it would be less windy than up in the pass from where it is really nice to check the route. I was trying to convince myself by seeing the no quickdraws moving in the lower bit (well, those quickdraws are in vertical wall so it is clear they were not moving so much). At base it was too obvious that it was freaking windy. But I just set off." Full story at his Insta.

 
 
Talk to climbers with bad access behavior  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHere is the 12 year old 8a Access flyers with advices including some specific instructions from The Access Fund in regards Human Waste.

As the climbing community is growing bigger, the number of access problems are increasing and although almost everyone behave respectful, it just takes some misbehaving to irritate the landowners etc. Spreading information and creating awareness are important but what is crucial is to actually talk directly to the climbers misbehaving. One way of making this easier, is to post signs at the crags meaning we only have to refer to something "official" while talking to the climbers with bad access behavior.

 
 
Access/Parking problems in Osp/Misja Pec  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOsp/Misja Pec in Slovenia is #17 in the 8a crag data base with 25 871 ascents. During many years there have been access issues also related to parking although a new bigger was opened.

"Since the day it was opened we are witnessing illegal camping and disrespectful behavior from some members of our climbing tribe."

More info on the specific rules etc to follow on their website as well on Insta.

 
 
Classified 9a by David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined World Championship in 2016, has done Classified 9a in Frankenjura. Pic from his Insta from last month when he did another 9a.

"Riding the sending wave after winning lead nationals. Feeling fit after Southern France and some training back in the gym. Nice fingery route on pockets and crimps with dynamic move to saving hold in the end. 9a in my opinion. Let's keep the ball rolling..."

 
 
Pipe Dream 8B by Thomas Lindinger  (2) Facebook
 

 
 
8.57 by Miho Nonaka in Speed  Facebook
 

Miho Nonaka, who won the Bouldering World Cup in 2018, set a new Speed PB in the Asian Championship at 8.57. As a matter of a fact, three times she did go below nine seconds which can be compared to Janja Garnbet and Akiyo Noguchi who has never gone under 10 seconds in an IFSC event. Among the male, Keita Dohi was fastest at 7.18.

Winners of the Combined event were Meichi Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi. Interesting was also that Bouldering specialist Kokoro Fujii won in Lead.

 
 
Great progress for Asia  Facebook
 

Over the years, Japan has become the most successful nation in the Lead and Boulder World Cup. In the Combined World Cup 2018, Japan male had four in Top-6 and the female three in Top-7. In male Bouldering, ten out of the Top-21 in the overall WC are from Japan.

Based on the Asian Championship, where as an example Japan did only get four male in Top-9, we can see that also other neighboring are coming strong. In the Combined YuFei Pan (18) from China was #3. It just might be that Asians will dominate in the future. South Korea has been one of the best countries in the world for a while but now also the youngsters from China and Hong Kong is knocking at the door. In a few years, it just might be that also these countries will advance high up in the rankings.

National Team Ranking Lead + Boulder in 2019
1. Japan 3 618
2. Slovenia 2 817
3. France 2 263
4. Austria 1 805
5. South Korea 1 313
Complete results

 
 
Adam Ondra onsights Just Do It 8c+  (14) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Insta that he has onsighted the iconic Just Do it 8c+ at Smith Rocks. It was bolted in 1989 by Alan Watts and JB Tribout did the FA in 1992. The 40m line with 18 bolts starts almost vertical with technical climbing on whitish rock. The second half on near to purple rock is slightly overhanging with the crux at the top where many have taken 15 meters falls.

Adam has previously onsighted three 9a's, 19 8c+' and 61 8c's. No other climber has onsighted more than a dozen 8c and harder.

 
 
Johnny Dawes (54) back to 8b+  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBritish legend Johnny Dawes is back on the game after a long process of efforts. A year ago he did Abuela Carmen 8a in La Pedriza, Spain. That day he tried on a top rope Inuït 8b+ just for fun and fixed it as a goal for the next season. The last week he tried first to check the moves and sent it on his second go. More info on his Insta. ©Talo Martin

Known as the developer of the dynamic climbing, in 1985 he bolted Meltdown 9a slab. In 1986 he fell in the last bolt due to a hold broke in the last hard moves (video of 1986 trying the route with Jerry Moffat). Meltdown was FA'd by James McHaffie in 2012 and recently repeated by Ignacio Mulero in 2018.

 
 
Rannweig Aamodt portrait after her big ground fall  Facebook
 


Rannveig Aamodt | The Art Of Living from Steve Rokks | ROKKS Media House on Vimeo.

 
 
Carnati presentation including Action Directe  Facebook
 

 
 
Chromosome X 9a by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did his first 8c when he was 11 years old, has done his first 9a, Chromosome X in Charmey. "Perfect route. My beta is totally different from Pirmins."

Adam Ondra was 13 years, nine months and six days when he did his first 9a. Illya was five days younger, setting a new world record. Ashima Shiraishi did her first 9a two weeks before she turned 14. More info to come!

 
 
Save the climbing area "Zillergrund Wald"  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe bouldering area "Zillergrund Wald" in Tirol, Austria, is at risk! A nearby quarry site is planned to be expanded, threatening to destroy part of the popular climbing area. Local climbers have now started an online petition, trying to prevent this from happening. The granite boulders in Zillergrund are a unique climbing area. Through the petition, the initiators hope to be able to preserve this valuable area, its nature and beauty.
Here you can support the cause with your signature.

Moreover, in order to protest against the extension of the quarry, the initiators are organizing a meeting in the town of Brandberg on November 13th at 8:45am. Climbers, friends and supporters are welcome to join.

 
 
Assassin 9a #106 by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has done Drew Ruana's Assassin 9a in Smith Rocks which he did second go. "2nd ascent, crazy route with different sections and good rests in between." (c) Martin Kanurek

In total total, the 25 year old has now recorded 172 routes 9a to 9c. Interesting insights on his Insta from Smith Rocks. "I love visiting new climbing places and I have been looking forward to this place so much! It is basically birthplace of America's sport climbing." He also met and give credits to Alan Watts, the pioneer of sport climbing in USA who in the early days got a lot of criticism." Video - Pioneering Smith Rocks.

 
 
Penrose Step 8B+ and more by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

 
 
Corrida 8c by Jessica Pilz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz, the world Lead Champion, has had some nice days in Osp/Misja Pec where she has onsighted Ptičja perspektiva 8a+ and on her second go she did Corrida 8c. In the 8a ranking game, the 21 year old is #3.

Three years ago she did her first 8c+ and based on her great progress the last year, it will be interesting to see how far she can push it this winter before going full into the Olympic mode in 2019. More info to come.

 
 
Sharma Mont-Rebei Summer 2018  Facebook
 

 
 
Meltdown 8c+ trad by Carlo Traversi  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has done the second ascent of Beth Rodden's Meltdown 8c+ in Yosemite which since 2008 have been seen as possibly the hardest trad route in the world.

"This season it all came together. A dry Fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley. Yesterday I was able to climb it on my 3rd try of the day after a couple weird slips after the crux on the first two tries. All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose."

Carlo's background is bouldering where he during two years until 2013 did five 8C's. Then in 2015 he did two 9a's and on his Insta he then reported he was close doing Meltdown after three years of sporadic effort.

 
 
Top-32 in Combined 2019 might have chances for the Olympics  Facebook
 

The 2019 competition season will finish with the Olympic Qualifying event in Toulouse 28/11 to 1/11 where the Top-20 in the Combined ranking will participate for six spots, excluding the seven that qualified during the World Championship in August in Japan. In practice this could mean that among the male, that even being ranked #32 you might be selected for the qualifying event as Japan could have eight in Top-32. In theory, if countries like Italy and Germany will fill their country quota in the World Championship, it might be good enough to be Top-35.

This means that the chances for the Speed specialists to compete in Toulouse is quite high. As their maximum score in the qualifying event is 1 * 20 * 20 = 400, this might be good enough for being Top-6 and to get a ticket for Tokyo.

It should be mentioned that excluding the Top-7 in the World Championship from participating in Toulouse could be consider not fair. In fact, Toulouse is the only event where you can "train" and prepare on the identical format as in Tokyo 2020. Detailed info how to qualify.

 
 
Viaje astral 9a FA by Jonathan Guadalcázar  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Guadalcázar has done his third 9a during the last 12 months, Viaje astral in Tarbena. Until 2016, the 25 year old had done just one 8c+ but during the last two years he has done five.

"40m route very intense. First 20m 8c+ on small crimps without rests and after a water-polished laybacking crack ending on very small crimps."

 
 
Supernormal 8B+ by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

 
 
Sharma competes at La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm  Facebook
 

In 1996, being 15 years old, Chris Sharma was #2 in the World Lead Championship and the next year he won his first World Cup he entered. In 2001, he won the Bouldering WC in Munich.

During the La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm 24/11, Sharma will compete against some of the very boulderers in the world; Jernej Kruder, Jongwon Chon, Alex Megos, Rei Sugimoto and Alexey Rubtsov. If he not ends last, it must be considered sensational. What if this is a test for going for the Olympics 2020? IFSC will through a Tripartite Commission invite one male and female that have not made it through the qualification competitions.

 
 
Netsuke 8B+ by Erik Bäcklin  Facebook
 

 
 
Working Class 9a by Moritz Perwitzschky (19)  Facebook
 

Moritz Perwitzschky has done his first 9a, Working class in Frankenjura, which he marked as chipped. "Lot of fixed holds, went down quick, M. Bock suggested 9a, I can't really tell, haven't tried much in that grade."

During the last month, the 19 year old has done six routes 8C and harder and he is #4 in the Combined ranking game.

 
 
Free Personalized Gym Workouts from Vertical-Life  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureWorkouts are now live in the Vertical-Life Climbing App! Spice up your gym sessions with free, customized, workouts. Lead and bouldering workouts are single-day training plans, designed by pro climbing coach Ingo Filzwieser.

Get started with 3 easy steps:
1. Choose your gym
2. Set a goal
3. Start Training

Download the App and start your free workout

 
 
El Dorado 9a FA by Carlos Ruano (38)  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlos Ruano has made the FA of El Dorado 9a in La Pedriza, Spain. The 38 years old has previously done one 9a and several boulders up to 8B+. ©Talo Martin

"The start of the route is a 8A+/B boulder, then follows a 7C+ and huge 7C dyno to catch the lip and there's no rest in its 12 meters. Despite the crux is in the bottom part I fell 5 times in the last hard move. "

 
 
Provisional WC Calendar 2019  Facebook
 

IFSC has published the provisional Calendar for 2019 including 6 events in all three disciplines.

05/04 Meiringen SUI Boulder
13/04 Moscow RUS Boulder/Speed
27/04 Chonqing CHN Boulder/Speed
04/05 Wujinang CHN Boulder/Speed
18/05 Munich GER Boulder
07/06 Vail USA Boulder

05/07 Villars FRA Lead/Speed
11/07 Chamonix FRA Lead/Speed
19/07 Briancon FRA Lead
20/08 Tokyo JPN Combined World Championship
28/09 Kranj SLO Lead
19/10 Xiamen CHN Lead/Speed
26/10 Inzai JPN Lead
28/11 Toulouse FRA Olympic Qualification


As the most important event for the ones going for Tokyo 2020 are the world Championship and the Olympic qualification event, most probably, most will cherry pick which comps to focus at. It is not wise to travel around the globe almost non-stop for seven months without resting prior to the qualification in Toulouse.

From a logistic and cost point of view; skipping Vail, Xiamen and Inzai will make everything much easier at least for the Europeans. For the non-Europeans avoiding Kranj and Munich will make life easier.

On the other hand, as many of the best probably will not do all WCs, it is a golden opportunity to focus on the World Cup in one discipline giving low priority for the Olympics.

The twist is also that the Top-7 in the World Championship in Tokyo in August will qualify for the 2020. Most probably, these qualifiers will limit their competing during the autumn opening up for better results for the lower ranked.

 
 
Brad Gobright hard trad in Indian Creek  Facebook
 

 
 
Schweinebaumeln 9a by Thomas O'Halloran  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas O'Halloran has done the first repeat of Alex Megos Schweinebaumeln 9a in Blue Mountains. The picture is from this summer walking up to Céüse and here is a nice video of him doing Mister Hyde 8c+ up there.

"Over the past few years I have spent a lot of days on it, but always in the middle of summer in bad conditions. I’d just use it as a training route while everything else was out of season. It was a good training route to keep fit. I did it on the 4th day of attempts this season. It’s very satisfying to do. I’m not feeling especially fit or strong at the moment and it didn’t feel like it took a lot out of me. So it’s great to know I have quite a bit more room to improve!"

 
 
 
Bombero de la Roca 7a+ in Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

 
 
8C after driving 7 000 km by Tamás Zupán  (17) Facebook
 

Tamás Zupán has set a new record of dedication by doing his second 8C, Zunami in Saalachtal, driving 7 000 kilometers to reach his goal.

- I was there with my friend in the middle of March and I climbed some boulders in the lower sector and I tried Gizmo 8B, which is a variant of Zunami. I live 600 km far from Saalachtal and I could travel there only on Wednesdays because of my work. I woke up at 4:30 a.m., started my journey from home at 5 a.m. and I came in Saalachtal at 11 a.m. I climbed until 2 p.m. and I arrived at 8 p.m. I climbed ’Gizmo’ on the second trip and finally I could manage ’Zunami’ on my 6th trip.

The first move is incredible complex because in the same time you should move separately your all limbs when make the crossing movement, after it is really crimpy, overhanging and that’s why I really liked it.

 
 
8b onsight by Laura Rogora (14) and one more today  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who just did her first 9a, has onsighted Batuka 8b in Margalef and she put up all the draws by herself. Batuka has been recorded 57 times in the data base, all with 8b and only two guys have onsighted it before.

- The route is divided in two sections with a very good rest in the middle. The first four bolt are hard and I thought to fall every move. The second part is easier but there is another hard move. Today was the first day of the trip. In this week I would like to visit new crags: Santa Linya, Rodellar...

Today the 14-year-old onsighted Codigo Norte, an 8b in Santa Linya. "I'm staying here just for one week so I think I will climb only onsight."

 
 
Anak Verhoeven (19) makes the FA of Ma belle ma muse 9a  (1) Facebook
 

Anak Verhoeven, who was #4 in the Lead World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, the FA of Me belle ma muse in Romeyer.



Just later, it was repeated by Jean-Elie Crestin-Billet and here is his video. Jean-Elie actually called it an 8c+/9a.

 
 
Kajsa Rosén (18) - A new star in the making  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKajsa Rosén, who did her first 8c and flashed an 8b+ last week, has done Mind Control 8c (+) and onsighted T-1 Full Equipe in Oliana. There is only a handful of female who have onsighted at this level before. "What to do next? Still suprising myself here in Oliana."

Last year, the 18-year-old was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

Loic Timmermans, who is still ahead of Kajsa with one 9a, reachead out to 8a with a nice reflection.

"Kasja is crushing all the routes she's trying like nothing. I was even more impressed when she told me she did Mind control without getting pumped. I think she has a good attitude to. Not taking things too seriously, just climbing and see what happens.

 
 
Two 8c (+) OS and a 9a+/b by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has had a great weekend. First he did the FA of Vicious Circle 9a+/b in Osp/Misja Pec, which he bolted last year. (c) Luka Fonda

"Left start into Sanski par. Bouldery and short 8c+ into the most of the Sanski par 9a (without first six moves). I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Super powerful and resistant climbing.

The next stop was Medveja, a new secret zone in Croatia. It was one of the best days of climbing ever as I onsighted two 8c's ('The Core' is considered 8c+ by those few, who repeated the route) and the first ascent of 'More', 9a. World record maybe? Haha.

Most of the routes are slightly overhanging, crimpy on super solid rock with a minimum of Sika and in general fitting my style pretty well.

The last day I tried a project in Pandora, a different zone in Istria, which is definitely pretty hard in the region of 9b or more. Something like 20m of bouldering in the roof. Definitely a lot of rock around there worth returning for."

 
 
8B (+) flash by James Webb again  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has traveled to Finland to take part in Sisu Masters with an amazing line up including Daniel Woods and Dave Graham but also to try Nalle Hukkataival's Boulders. First they had to crush some ice on the top of the Globalist in Sipoo and then James just flashed it and gave it a personal grade of 8B. The best flash boulderer in the world has now flashed 13 8B Boulders, four out of which were originally graded 8B+. (c) Nico Backström

"Absolutely incredible boulder from Nalle that I've wanted to climb on for so long. Perfect rock, amazing movement. One of the best!"

Next up could be Hukkataival's famous Sisu or Lappnor Project that the Fin has been trying for six respectively four years speculating that it could become the next level.

 
 
8b+ flash and a 8c by Kajsa Rosén (18)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSimon Carter, a professional climbing photographer for 25 years, reports on Facebook:

"I've seen a lot of really impressive climbing over all the time I've spent at Oliana over the years... and add to that today's jaw-dropping sends by 18 year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosen. First up she hiked Fisheye (8c) first shot (after only working it twice yesterday), for her first of the grade, and THEN casually flashed Los Humildes pa Casa (8b+) soon after (pictured). Kajsa Rosen; a name to watch out for for sure!"

Simon is spot-on as the young Swede has had an extreme development over the last few years. In the past year, she was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

So how much beta did you get and do you still plan to get yourself a station wagon and hit the road?
I saw a french guy climbing it and he told me about a knee bar. I heard some screaming from below but it was very windy. My plan is to do some comps and some rock climbing and have fun. I graduate this year so hopefully I will have some more time for climbing.

 
 
8C by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (21) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReel Rock Film Tour comes with the amazing news that Ashima Shiraishi has made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's spectacular Horizon 8C, in Hiei, Japan. The 14-year-old worked on the 30 move long roof problem in December and now she has done it on her third day, which means she is the first female and the youngest climber ever to have reached 8C. Here you can find Dai's comment on his FA including a picture where you see that it is almost a horizontal roof.

- "No doubt the Super Project was the hardest problem I’'ve ever done and that probably means it’s a V16 (8C+). However, I’'m not quite sure because I don’t have enough references to compare with. I would be able to fully understand what V15 (8C) is like exactly if I did more than fifty or so of them, but my accomplishments don’t even come close to that."

Based on Ashima's Route and Boulder ticklist, she has been the world's best female rock climber since she was 12 years old. Among the male, she is currently in the Top-20 including also having done two 9a's last autumn. How many 14-year-old girls are able to compete with the best male in any sport? (c) Brett Lowell

 
 
8C by Ryuichi Murai incl amazing 240 spin  (3) Facebook
 

Ryuichi Murai , who two weeks ago did two 8B+, has done Dai Koyamada's Babel 8C in Shiobara. "This problem links Catharsis(8B+) to Hydra(8B) via Uma(8B+). About 30 moves that include various moves made me enjoy myself."

Totally amazing! Watch that mind-boggling sequence where the 167 cm tall spins 240 degrees with his foot. How is it even possible to find such solution :)

 
 
Laura Rogora (14) does her first 9a  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has become the first Italian female to do a 9a by Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga, which is a 20 meter long roof link up. Last year the 14-year-old won both Lead and Boulder Italian Championships and to make the story even more amazing, she mainly just trains in a Bouldering gym. She is #1 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Stefano Michelin/UP-Climbing

- It took me about 15-20 tries in one month and half. I went to Sperlonga seven times. I didn't do a specific training for this route because my purpose is training for competition. Now I need going to train hard for competition especially for the world youth championship in China in November. Surely I will continue to climb on the rock. I planned a trip to Spain in April I think I will climb on sight.

 
 
Mowgli repeats his 8B+ (C) twice after just a short warm up  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharles Albert, who did the FA of the L'Alchimiste left exit last week, considered to be harder than the 8C right exit, did it today twice. (c) Neil Hart did get it on video both times.

"He is so strong he made it look like a 6A. I picked him up at one o'clock and we did a very quick 7B that took two tries and we drove to the L'alchimiste. He just pulled on and fell three times on the crux then sent it, then climbed it again so we could get another angle.

It is easier for him bare foot because he can hook his toes into the side pulls better. Definitely a new level!"

 
 
Women are catching up in the Santa Linya caves  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSome ten years ago, several men - notably Dani Andrada, Patxi Usobiaga and Chris Sharma - broke through to the next grading level establishing several 9a's and 9a+'s in Santa Linya. As of 2016, however, it seems that progress has become stagnant with Chris Sharma's two 9b FAs representing the highest attainable level.

Women, in the mean time, have caught up, in 2010 Angela Eiter did the first female 8c in Santa Linya. Quickly thereafter other women have followed suit with ten other females having completed climbs ranging from 8c to 9a(+) over the last two years. Complete stats. In this great picture captured by Luka Fonda, Janja Garnbret (16) flashes La Fabelita 8c.

If the trend continues, it is only a matter of time before women are on par with men in Santa Linya. While impossible to know for certain, one of the reasons behind such phenomenal progress for women may lie in the nature of the climbing in the cave where technical skill and endurance are of vital importance. That, and the fact that these ten women - and the many who will follow - are testaments of climbing strength and power.

 
 
Charles Albert interview  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing has made an interview with Charles Albert, who did an 8C yesterday, giving it a personal grade of 8B+. The interesting fact is that the 18-year-old seldom trains indoor and the only training he does beside Bouldering is stretching. (c) Neil Hart

"Yesterday I was climbing alone without pads and luckily I met Kevin Thibaut and Mounir (strong but low profile Font locals) who were trying it. I joined them and I managed to send it on my first real session trying the left version. Regarding the grade, I would say for me it’s not harder than “Gecko assis”, the 8B+ I did barefoot last year… I also tried the sit start of “Alchimiste” which adds an easy but beautiful move but doesn’t change the difficulty. I have not done the sit-start version but will come back and try sending the whole thing because it makes the line even more beautiful !"

 
 
"A 14-year-old girl redefines rock climbing"  (6) Facebook
 

BBC has made an interview with Ashima Shiraishi, where, among other things, she says her goal is to break records held by her male counterparts. The 14-year-old claims to be the only female to have done a 9a+ (Direct open your mind R1 in Santa Linya) and the youngest person to have reached that grade.

It should be noticed that the route was originally a 9a until some holds broke and it was speculated that it might be a 9a+. Later Edu Marin repeated it saying it is still a 9a. The first woman to claim having done a 9a+ route was Josune Bereziartu (route: Bimbaluna), which has been subject of being downgraded.

 
 
8c+ (9a) by Thilo Jeldrik Schröter (20)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThilo Jeldrik Schröter, who just turned 20, has been a successful boulderer for many years including being #4 in a Youth Euro Championship. Now he has been in Siurana for some weeks and it actually turns out that he has a great talent for routes as he just increased his personal best from 8b to 8c+, respectively, a possible 9a - Jungle Speed. (c) Tina Johnsen Hafsaas

"I worked the route for five days. The route is built up with a boulder in the beginning that could be something like 8A+, leading you into a rest. From there it's about 8a+ technical face climbing to the top, which for me was the redpoint crux as I fell there three times before nailing. Not many people that are able to do the start fall in the top, so I guess a route is never over before it's over for a boulderer, even though the individual moves feel easy."

 
 
9b again by Jakob Schubert  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Facebook with a great picture by © Elias Holzknecht/ WOODSLAVE productions,

"LA PLANTA DE SHIVA! After the biggest fight of my life I managed to clip the anchor of this amazing 9b in Villanueva del Rosario. 2nd Ascent after Adam Ondra. Super happy and proud to have send this one, my hardest route so far. Time for fiesta!"

Jakob has been the best male lead competition climber in the world since 2010 and in 2011 he won seven events straight. He also won overall in 2014 and last year he was #3. The Austrian is the fourth climber after Ondra, Sharma and Andrada to have done two 9b's. Here is a new Podcast.

"The process was actually rather special and I learned a lot about trying something that hard. The first few days on the route were pretty frustrating and I felt like I'm not strong enough for this route. I think it's the hardest route I have ever tried and because the rock is so special on the 9b part it's very difficult to find the right beta and can take a lot of time.
I kind of gave up on the route and climbed some easier ones for some days, but since it didn't get out of my head, I returned with more motivation and a better mindset and suddenly made a lot of progress. The send was epic, I almost fell at the second to last move and fought super hard to reach the last hold. Really happy and proud of this one.

2016 I will only do the Lead season (+BWC in Innsbruck) mostly because I want to have more time to climb outside until spring. I will fly to Hueco for 3 weeks beginning of February and after we have a 10 day training camp with the national team in Fontainebleau and in Andalusia. After that I'm not sure about my plans yet, but I really want to go back to Flatanger since it's such an amazing place and I would really love to try 'Move'.

 
 
Second 8c flash and an 8b OS by Janja Garnbret (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLuka Fonda comes with another superb picture of Janja Garnbret, who flashed her second 8c yesterday in Santa Linya, La Fabelita. The 16-year-old got the beta from Mina Markovic, who belayed her and explained the moves. The Slovenian onsighted also one 8a+ and La Ruta del Sol 8b.
Having been in Top-3 in all the three World Cups and #2 in the Euro Championship last year, Janja is #6 in the 8a Climber of the year list, where her Slovenian teammates, Mina and Domen Skofic are #2 and #9 accordingly.

 
 
9a for Markovic and 8c flash for Garnbret  (24) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic comes with amazing news on Facebook, "Special day for our crew today!!! Both @miiiinam (Mina Markovic) and @janja_garnbret made history today by doing a 9a (Fabela pa la enmienda) and 8c flash! (Rollito Sharma extension) Congrats girls, you're outstanding and a huge inspiration!"

Mina won the Lead World Cup this year and Janja (16) was #7 but she participated in only three events, making the podium in all of them. In the European Championships she was #2. All of them come from Slovenia, which is one of the leading Climbing nations although it has just about two million residents. In the 8a Climber of the year list, Mina is #2, Domen #8 and Janja #12. More info to come. (c) Luka Fonda

 
 
8B+ in 30 min by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi (14) comes with amazing news on Facebook, (c) Ikuko Serata

"Santa Claus gave me the best Christmas present ever🎁! I sent Phenomena V14 (8b+) in Hinokage, Miyazaki!!! This was the 2nd ascent after @dai_koyamada and the first female ascent!! I once again surprised myself by sending it after about 30 MINUTES of working on it!!!"

This was the 14-year-old's second 8B+ and one of the quickest 8B+ ascents in the history of bouldering. Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods are the only ones who have flashed an 8B+. In the 8a ranking game, Ashima is #2 in bouldering but if we take in consideration both routes and boulders, Ashima has been #1 in the world since she was 12 years old.

 
 
8B again by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (36) Facebook
 

Ashima Shiraishi reported on Instagram that she had sent Terre de Sienne during her first day in Hueco Tanks. It was set up by Fred Nicole as a hard 8B+ but now it is considered an 8B. She also made a quick ascent of Diaphanous Sea 8A.

The 14-year-old sent one 8B+ boulder previously (UKC reports four) and one 9a+ sport route. In fact, Ashima has had the most impressive combined female tick list for the last two years. It should be noted, originally both of these great boulders had a higher grade, however, we are reporting the consensus 8a grade.

 
 
9b by Pirmin Bertle  (44) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has done the FA Meoise 9b in Charmey after 50 days of working on it and 150 tries, it was the last try the last day before leaving to Buenos Aires with his family for nine months! On the 30th March 2012, The German did two 9a's, Chromosome Y and X in 75 minutes, video. Meoise is a link up which actually goes straight up through two 8B cruxes.

Previously in 2015, he did one 8C+ and one 9a+. His 9b blog story is just amazing and here topo for Charmey and Jansegg.

 
 
8C+ and 9a+ FA by Pirmin Bertle and one even harder  (21) Facebook
 

Pirmin Bertle, who has done six 9a's, did yesterday do his hardest route ever, which made him share the news that in April he did a 8C+ FA, Drop a line in Couisimbert and that he in August did the FA of Des scènes bizzarres dans la mine d'or 9a+ in Jansegg, video. Last week, he also did the FA of Mediomalomania 8C in Lindental, "but the hardest thing in my life I sent yesterday."

Interesting is that he did not climb at all during the first six months of 2014 due to having caught bone mark edema. Then he just climbed very easily for some months until he started to work only on the 8C+ boulder. Interesting is also that he only trains five hours a week and never indoors. More info on his blog and on 8a tomorrow. :)

Drop a line 8C+ at Cousimbert, the real video from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
 
Ondra wins in Kranj and gets the overall title  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra, the double world champion from last year, won in Kranj meaning that he got another overall victory. His first Lead overall he got in his debut season 2009, being 16 years old. Including being #3 in the Bouldering WC as well as being #2 in both the Lead and Boulder European Championship, 2015 is also his best competition season ever.

Overall WC ranking - Kranj results
458 Adam Ondra CZE
400 Gauthier Supper FRA
396 Jakob Schubert AUT
376 Domen Skofic SLO
354 Romain Desgranges FRA

 
 
8B+ by Ashima Shiraishi (14) again  (16) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi reports on Facebook that she has done 8A, 8A+ and 8B+ all in one day. This confirms that she is the best female climber out there, although being just 14 years old. Photo: @leibav

- V11, V12 and V14 in a DAY! Holy CRAP!!!!!! I had the best day climbing today!!!! It's been a while since I climbed on some REAL ROCK!!!! Started off the day by sending Worthless V11 then Wetness the Fatness V12 pretty quickly! Later on, I decided to give Nuclear War V14 a try and managed to send it!!!! Nuclear War hasn't seen a 2nd ascent in 9 years (when Matt Bosley did it). Psyched to have gotten the 2nd and 1st Female Ascent! Stay tuned for some video

 
 
Low prices at EPIC TV Shop  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEPIC TV is the biggest video climbing media and their webshop is growing with low prices, and that includes the biggest brands.

Solution (in the picture) is Euro 109 including free shipping. In fact, once you become a member you get 5 euro for free and then 10% lower prices. This means that new members pay euro 93.50 for Solution and then you get a 5 euro coupon.

You can also buy ropes for under 100 euro, a Mammut harness for 45 euro, a Grigri for 69 euro and even get a quick draw from Climbing Technology for Euro 6.95! And do not forget that the prices are 10% lower for members. It seems, pretty much all brands are at sale there so check it out and start saving some money.

 
 
9a's FA and 8c's onsight and ethics by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has added another 20 climbsand some interesting comments to his scorecard including 1 670 ascents, from his recent trips to Flatanger and Arco. The hardcore hightlights were two 9a's FA in Flatanger, Brunhilde low start and Witchhammer. "A new line bolted by Adam Pustelnik...Really fun climbing, different sections with rests in between, never easy. Flatanger at its best."

The double world champion from 2014 visited also Hell, some two hours south from Flatanger by the Trondheim airport, where, among other things, he did the last project giving it 8c+ based on an interesting ethical comment. "The climbing is 8c, but clipping the 2nd bolt adds the grade."

The film producer Petr Pavlíček was with Adam and says Adam had also bolted some new lines one out of which includes the biggest dyno ever and it comes after a 9a route. Adam Ondra story of Change 9b+ from 2012.

 
 
First 9a by Erik Grandelius after reading a book  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureErik Grandelius seems to be in the best shape of his life, having onsighed two 8b's and done his first 9a, Cabane au Canada in Rawyl.

"We spent two weeks in Switzerland. The first day I realized that I was in good shape as I surprised myself by falling at the chains on the onsight of Paradis Articifiel 8c. We stayed another two days in Rawyl but then it became to warm (even though it is at 2000 meters) so we went to Gastlosen for a week. When we came back I sent the Cabane au Canada the first day on the second try.

Altogether I made six tries over three days. I feel that I have reached a deeper focus in my climbing, especially the last four days of the trip I dwelved into an almost meditative state as soon as a tied in, even on warm-ups. During the trip a was reading "Das Glasperlenspiel" by Herman Hesse and it made a great impression on my climbing. The great spiritual and intellectual discipline and the strong organization in the fictional Kastilien became an inspiration for me. I also feel that climbing hard in the alps also requires a great deal of organization and discipline as you have to time the weather, the resting, the nutrition and mental state perfectly.

 
 
Ammagamma 8B flash by James Webb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has flashed his 11th 8B, Ammagamma in Grampians, which was put up by Klem Loskot in 1999 as an 8B+.

"Despite the unstable weather we're making it happen down here in OZ. The climbing style and rock quality has definitely exceeded my expectations. Yesterday was a perfect day and I took advantage by flashing the mega classic 'Ammagamma' 8B. I've been wanting to climb this one for as long as I can remember and it feels amazing just to climb on it. @matt_fultz also took it down!"

In total, James has recorded 88 flashes 8A and harder and without all his personal gradings, it would be over 100. The runner-up in the flash category is Daniel Woods who has flashed some 65 boulders 8A and harder, out of which five are 8B's.

 
 
8a and 8a+ onsight by Kajsa Rosén (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoon Climbing reports that Kajsa Rosen from Sweden, who got the bronze in the Youth World's last year, has had an amazing onsight day in Voralpsee in Switzerland.

Beside onsighting Alaska kid 8a and Mordillo 8a+, she fell at the top of it's 8b extension. On Friday, the 18 year old is going to compete in the Imst Lead WC. (c) Stefan Ösund

- I did not go all in for the move as I did not think 8b onsight was possible. Kind of a stupid failure and I was not so happy. The 8a+ part was actually not so hard for me. I spent like 30 minutes on it.

 
 
Adam Ondra redpoints Three Degrees of Separation and suggests 9a+  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has made the second ascent of Three Degrees of Separation, a route Chris Sharma put up in 2007 as a 9a. In an old Planetmountain interview it was listed by Adam among "The Routes I Cannot Climb!"

"Three massive dynos into perfect jugs is something that is very rare on rock, especially in the middle of a route. I tried it for four days in 2010, but was actually never able to do the crux dyno, not even as a single move, although I was very close."

"You have to be able to do that dyno easily as a single move, because the 20 meters of 8c (5.14b) below really pump you out. Well, dynos aren't my cup of tea, I don't have the pure explosive power to perform them, but at least I can take advantage of my height. In any case, the fact that it remains unrepeated despite many attempts indicates that this one could easily be upgraded..."


After the ascent, Adam told UKC

"It is just too specific to grade, and I know for big dynoers like Jan [Hojer] the dyno is not that hard, but to get there fresh is quite a different story. To me it felt like the hardest route in Céüse, but that doesn't mean that it is definitely at least 9a+, because it doesn't fit me that well, but my suggestion is 9a+ and we will see." © Pierre Délas/Kairn

 
 
59 000 members and 3.5 million ascents  Facebook
 

Yesterday, the 59 000th 8a member signed up and in total there are now more than 3.5 million ascents in the data base that will help you to find the best crags and routes in the world. We are working on a totally new design that will be presented on Thursday both for the 8a community as well as on the Outdoor trade fair in Friedrichshafen.

 
 
8B by Jan de Smit (41) in Rocklands  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan de Smit, who started climbing in 1990 and was the Belgian Champion in 2013, is in his best shape ever, being 41 years old.

In the last week he has done 13 boulders 7C+ and harder including Mooiste Meisie 8B which was originally an 8B+. It is also interesting that he 185 cm tall has given personal grades for most of the hardest ones, including calling his flash of Stalker on the horizon, which was set up as an 8A, an 7B/+. Blogspot including great videos.

- Above all comments and grades, Rocklands has the most amazing boulders you will ever climb, anywhere.

Progression at 40+ involves more discipline and commitment. As you age the impact of sleep deprivation, malnutrition and over training can be deeply detrimental to your improvement. Over the years i have become more engaged in training and coaching, gathering information and experience I felt the need to bundle all this information in an effort to create a giant database filled with relevant information about training for climbing. All of this work resulted in the creation of Steelfingers.be , a free website with training tips and exercises for climbers.

 
 
Portrait of Jakob Kronberger (14) after his first 9a  Facebook
 

Here you have the link to Jakob Kronberger's very impressive scorecard.

A portrait of Jakob Kronberger from Wild Country on Vimeo.

 
 
8c (+) 2:Go by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi has done Nordic Flower 8c (+) in Flatanger on her second go, which was put up as an 9a. From Instagram: "It was nice to take a break from my wet/hard project and to climb this 160ft beast!" She is talking about Thor's hammer 9a+.

The 14 year old has previously this year done one 9a+ and one 9a and actually, she has had the most impressive female tick list in the world for two years now. © Henning Wang/MadSkillz Media comments, "I have never seen a female climbing so naturally and making hard moves looks so easy. Her endurance is just amazing apart from her power.

 
 
9a by Jakob Kronberger (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Kronberger has done Klem Loskot's Intermezzo XY gelöst 9a in Plombergstein. Last year, when he did his first 8c+ at the same crag, he said: "I would like to climb Intermezzo. If I can't do it this year, I already know what to expect in 2015!"
Alhough he is just 14 years old, Jakob is already 179 cm tall. More info to come. The youngest to have reached 9a are Ashima Shiraishi and Adam Ondra who were both 13 years old at the time. © Salzburg.com

 
 
Ben Moon, almost 49, does Rainshadow 9a  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBen Moon, who turns 49 next week, reports on Twitter@

"Just climbed my 2nd 9a 25 years after my 1st. Rainshadow 4th ascent. FXXXXXX psyched!!!"

His first was Hubble at Raven Tor which he originally graded 8c+ back in 1990. Ben is mostly known for short powerful routes and for boulders, while Rainshadow, put up by Steve McClure and repeated by Adam Ondra and Jordan Buys, is a power-endurance monster route.

Steve has previously said, "Rainshadow is a truly brilliant route, perhaps my best, on the best UK sport cliff.

 
 
8C(B+) in few tries by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has spent some time in the Rocky Mountains National Park together with other boulder WC athletes. There, Adam needed just a few attempts to repeat White Noise 8C (B+) and flashed Bear toss 8B. © Chad Greedy (Instagram)

The double world champion from 2014, was #3 in the Boulder WC last weekend in Toronto. In the forthcoming WC stage in Vail (Colorado) he will compete together with 132 participants, which is about 50% more than last year.

 
 
Seb Bouin does Chilam Balam 9b  (10) Facebook
 

Seb Bouin, who has done several 9a and also 9a+', has done the third ascent of Bernabe Fernandez Chilam Balam 9b from 2003. Originally it was graded 9b+ which created a lot of controvercy and in 2011, Adam Ondra (Video) did the 80 meter super steep route and suggested 9b.

 
 
Ethan Pringle does Jumbo Love 9b  (17) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM Climbing has the full story of Ethan Pringle making the first repeat of Chris Sharma's 80 metre long Jumbo Love 9b in Clark Mountain. Ethan had been projecting Jumbo Love since 2007 and here is a great video from 2013. © RV Project - Walker Emerson

In 2000, Ethan took the silver in the Youth World Championship and his best result out of seven Lead and Boulder WC's is #16. On rock he has done a handful of 9as and Biographie 9a+ in 2007, when he was the #1 in the 8a Combined ranking game thanks to three 8B+ boulders he also climbed that year.

Previously only six climbers have done 9b or harder (excluding boulder routes) out of which Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma with 12 and 8 are the only ones to have done more than one.

"WOW!!! Yesterday I climbed my ultimate lifetime dream route, the most bad-ass sport climb I’ve ever laid eyes on, Chris Sharma 's ‪#‎JumboLove‬! WOW. I can’t believe it’s over. I say that half in a literal sense because when I sent it, it was almost like an out of body experience that I can barley remember happening. My story on Jumbo Love spanned over eight years and involved every emotion I can think of: awe, excitement, love, admiration, longing, apathy, fear, frustration, anger, resignation, acceptance, and eventually, MOTHERFUCKEN GLORY!!!

 
 
Jonathan Siegrist does Era Vella 9a (8c) on his third try  (75) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist blogs about having sent Era Vella in Margalef on his third try. Chris Sharma made the FA in 2010 as a warm up and said it might be a soft 9a. Howwever, Jstar says many 8c's are much harder. He also says that the hardest sequence is like a 7A+ boulder problem.

"I climbed Era Vella and I had a lot of fun doing it. Grades are there to offer a foundation for difficulty but the more I climb the more I realize the plasticity of grading. I could comment on how I feel that Era is easy and make a list of routes graded 8c that are much harder and blah blah blah but what I'm after is not a grade, it is an experience. So never mind all that."

It should be mentioned that, over the years, 8a has received many comments like this by climbers who have done Era Vella but who wanted to remain anonymous. By checking the stats and all personal records including quick sends of Era Vella, 8c+ is probably a more correct grade for this world class 45m route.

Climbers should focus on the beauty of the climbs and "never mind all that (grades)", as Jstar explains in his blog and leave the grade to the media who are trying to report as correct news (grades) as possible.

  2018
2017
2016
2015
2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004


Videos
2018
2017
2016
2015
2014
2013
2012
2011
2010
Next Page ->