Muriel Sarkany, one of the best competition climbers in the history, who did her first 9a when she was 39, has onsighted Paideia 8a+ in Rodellar. The picture by Kaori is from Florida 8a+, which she did one day later. Between 1997 and 2004, Muriel won the Overall WC 5 times and in the remaining 3 years she was the runner-up! The 153 cm tall stopped competing in 2010 and has since done some great progress peaking so far being 39 years old.

Mammut has developed an interesting belay chain by connecting six rings in two different sizes which will be available in 2016. "The Belay Chain 12.0 offers downright innumerable options for connecting fixed points at the belay position to each other. The sling is at the same time used for self-securing and belay positions can be set up very quickly; the utmost safety is ensured at all times, since every single ring has a tensile strength of 22 kN. This enormous breaking strength is achieved by an innovative round coiling procedure for which a patent has been filed: a coiled Dyneema® core is enclosed in an abrasion-proof sheath."

This friday, the fifth annual Adidas Rockstar starts in Stuggart where some 65 athletes will compete for Euro 20 000. During the qually and the semi it is more or less the normal IFSC boulder format meanwhile the final is done with an elimination format with a super final. Several athletes have said that this is the high light of the year and in fact Sachi Amma is participating, a well as Sean McColl, Jan Hojer, Janja Garnbret and Akiyo Noguchi. The Livestream starts at Saturday 26 September 20:15 PM CEST! (c) E Holzknecht

Nasz Chleb has done five 8b+ and Spanish Caravane 8c during two weeks in Verdon, which is remarkable as she had previously done just two 8b+ and one 8c. Part of the explanation is that she took one year off from University studies last year. ""The route traverses through the middle of the impressive overhanging cave of "La Ramirole", giving a 50m long good endurance test piece. I liked the route from the beginning, because there are no lottery moves... For trying the route I was encouraged by my friend Marv, who told that this 8c more likely to send then "La feu occulte" 8b+ on which I was working on this time. By the end of climbing day, I went on "Spanish caravanne", I did all moves, so I decided, that in case of sending 8b+ fast, I will make a gift to myself and get familiar with 8c...I will prepare project for next holidays...I was not thinking, that I manage to send it that fast."

Gudmund Grønhaug, som har klättrat på hög nivå i 20+ år och har en Masters i Science in Sports, har publicerat boken Belastningsskador i klatring. Den norska boken tar ett helhetsgrepp och omfattar allt från grundläggande träningslära inkl förslag på periodisering samt detaljerad info av de flesta belastningsskador man kan råka ut för. Den tar också upp kroppsövningar man kan använda efter skadan och även för att träna antagonisterna. Under hösten håller han föredrag i Norge och hoppas även kunna besöka Sverige och Danmark på temat - "Tren mindre, prester bedre!" Målet med foredraget er å lære bort hvordan man kan øke effekten og samtidig minimere sjansen for skader! Boken inleds med ett förord av Adam Ondra som förklarar att han aldrig har varit skadad och orsaken till detta är att han inte hade prestation i fokus när han var tonåring utan istället bara klättrade på. Utmanar man sig ändå med allt för hård prestationsinriktad träning så ger boken enkla och praktiska råd hur man diagnosticerar och behandlar tecken på skador. Trots att den är skriven på norska är den lättläst och det blir aldrig riktigt komplicert. Boken är praktiskt tillämpar och har hela tiden budskapet att känn efter och ta det försiktigt. De tydliga anatomiska bilderna fyller även som funktion att man blir lite skrämd och istället för att få en kronisk skada så undviker du den genom vila och allmänna övningar. Det enda som saknas är ett sakregister så man enklare kan söka sig fram till rätt sida. Norsk klatring intervjuade honom: - Hvis opplaget på 1500 blir utsolgt så får jeg kanskje en timelønn på 40 øre. Blir ikke rik av å lage fagbøker i Norge! Men jeg har lært utrolig mye underveis og jeg har fått samarbeide med noen av de aller beste på sine felt. Hvis boka i tillegg kan bidra til å hjelpe noen ut av skade, eller til å hindre skade så er det lønn nok i massevis. Klatring er altfor gøy til at man skal behøve og skade seg av det. Köp den för 329 nkr

Toru Nakajima reports on Facebook that he has done Paint it Black 8C in RMNP which Daniel Woods set up in 2012. One week ago Toru wrote on Facebook that he tried it for the first time and that is was his first outdoor climbing in three months and that, "I'm weaker than I used to be." "Yeeeeeees!!! I completed Paint it Black V15 early this morning! I got up at 4:30am and did it at 8:30am. I cannot believe what I'm able to do while this short trip. Of cause I'm happy to sent it, but I also happy to be able to come back to such a hard climb again. I have stopped training from July and focused on studying. I started climbing again at the beginning of September, so it was too short preparation to be in best condition. Based on that, I didn't thought I can do such a hard problem. I can't believe!

Kyparissi is a small village in one of the last remaining remote corners of Greece, located 300 km south west of Athens. Surrounded by cliffs of exceptional quality and wild beauty, it waited a long time until a bolting project was able to be implemented under the supervision of r Kalymnos, Aris Theodoropoulos. Between 2-4 October, there will be a festival with Angy Eiter invited as a special guest. Approximately 100 sport routes of all levels have been equipped in Kyparissi to-date. They are distributed across six beautiful crags, with shade both in the morning and in the afternoon. More information about the new routes in Kyparissi can be found online at Climb Greece

Adam Ondra continues to explore new rock and during his last trip to Arco he made six new onsights 8a+ to 8c in the new sector Padaro. Later he tried his luck in Pal Picolla, where he did one 8c FA onsight and one 8c+ FA, near the Austrian border. Video (c) Gemona Cittá dello Sport - Padaro is a new cliff in Arco that has been published in the new guidebook. Besides many pitches on slightly overhanging walls on tufas and crimps with most of the routes in between 7b and 8b, there is one sector on the far left side which has only three routes so far, but they are some of the best that Arco has to offer. Two 8c's and one 8b+ and space to bolt more. Thank you Paolo Benvenutti for letting me freeing two of these amazing routes. The other interesting area is in Friuli, close to the towns Gemona and Tolmezzo, close to the Austrian border. I was invited there for the annual meeting "Find Your Way", which was focused this time on the area Pal Piccollo and bolting and freeing new routes. The area has mostly solid grey limestone and vertical or slightly overhanging walls in the best alpine landscape. The routes are oldschool and technical, but very high quality. During the meeting, I have redpointed several new projects with Team Vision 8c+ being the absolute highlight and one of the best routes you can imagine in this style. 55meters of perfect rock and the second half being very resistant on perfect crimps and sidepulls. Besides high end routes and potential for even harder ones there are routes of all grades and they included in the guidebook "Sul confine" from Versante sud.

Katharina Saurwein,#5 in the Boulder WC 2015, reports on Facebook that she has done The Shining in RMNP which was her third 8B the last year. - Whoop! After falling a bunch of times on the normally not so hard ending of 'The Shining' 8B, I finally sent! This beautiful problem sits very high up in Chaos Canyon at an altiutude of ~3000 meters and is very often wet. It took a little patience, but was definitely worth it! Psyched for less hiking... Thanks to @Jonglassberg for the photo and support!