NEWS

18 November 2015

Adam Ondra sums up 2015

9a FA in Frankenjura again by Alex Megos
Alex Megos reports on Facebook that he has done yet another 9a FA in Frankenjura, Space Lap. (c) Daniela Ebler "Might have been the last really good day in the Frankenjura?! And I made the best of it! Not only that the climbing legend Jerry Moffatt was with us at the crag but also did he cheer me on while doing the FA of another 9a in the Frankenjura! It was a project of Philipp Warda who belayed me during the send. I called it "Space Lap"!

17 November 2015

Kranj Lead WC summary

First 9a by Stefano Carnati (17)
Stefano Carnati, Euro Youth Champion and #2 in the World Championship 2015, has done his first 9a, Coup de Grace in Sonlerto. It was put up by David Graham in 2005 as a 9a+ and repeated by Gabri Moroni, who gave it a personal grade of 9a. "I tried this route for the first time about one year ago and soon realized it was too hard for my level. This year I came back really motivated to try it again and after some tries I managed to figure out the moves, but linking them seemed impossible! Last week, my father drove me to Sonlerto. Conditions were good and I felt quite well. After a good attempt, on my third go I set on send-mode, climbed the first part quickly, took a long rest before the roof and went through the last section until the final jug! I tried to calm down a bit and then climbed the final slab to the top of this big boulder! Coup de Grace was done!!!!"

Era Vella 9a (8c+) by Magnus Midtbรธ
Magnus Midtbรธ, #4 in the World Championships 2011, has done Era Vella in Margalef saying "Best route ever!" and giving it a personal grade of 8c+. The Norweigian has previously recorded 15 routes between 9a and 9b in his scorecard. (c) Joรฃo Giacchin "Surprisingly fast in pretty damp conditions yesterday. Maybe the best route ever! Bolted and first ascended by the legend himself, Chris Sharma .Since then new beta was found and to me it feels more like 8c+ now. Grades are not written in stone and it's not science, so for them to be somewhat accurate we should all keep an open mind." Stay updated on his instagram This is in fact the third popular 9a in the area, which the Norwegian has given a personal grade for. over the years, 8a has received comments from two repeaters confirming what Magnus suggests but they did not want to go public. Last winter, Jonathan Siegrist actually compared Era Vella with some 8c's he had done. It was in 2010, Chris Sharma opened Era Vella as he was warming up suggesting it to be a soft 9a. Today, the 50 meter long and one of the best hard routes in the world, has been repeated more than 30 times, which makes it by far the most popular 9a in the world.

Ondra wins in Kranj and gets the overall title
Adam Ondra, the double world champion from last year, won in Kranj meaning that he got another overall victory. His first Lead overall he got in his debut season 2009, being 16 years old. Including being #3 in the Bouldering WC as well as being #2 in both the Lead and Boulder European Championship, 2015 is also his best competition season ever. Overall WC ranking - Kranj results 458 Adam Ondra CZE 400 Gauthier Supper FRA 396 Jakob Schubert AUT 376 Domen Skofic SLO 354 Romain Desgranges FRA

16 November 2015

9a FA by Gabriele Moroni

Gabriele Moroni, #3 in the bouldering WC in 2009, has made the first repeat of a new 8c+ Markus Bock route as well as the FA of Sid Lives 9a, both in Arco. "Incredible bouldery route I bolted a couple of years ago. I think it's a hard 8B boulder into another 7B/B+ boulder. All in 10meters of climbing. 9a? Let's see what other people think!" Based on that he is a boulder expert who has done several short 9a's before. Climbers will probably think it is pretty hard.

15 November 2015

Lead World Cup - Kranj