
11 December 2015
Grading: Boulder deflation vs Route inflation
Until 2005, when Dave Graham gave The Story of Two (Grading) Schools 8C, the upper boulder grades outside Fontainebleau were inflated. Many thought Graham's boulder should be given 8C+ to fit the modern grading.
Today, Graham's masterpiece is considered to be a soft 8C and as a matter of a fact, gradewise, the hard core bouldering scene has not progressed that much during the last ten years. The reason for this is that during the last few years the inflated grades have been deflated instead.
It is time that someone make another statement putting up The Story of the three grading schools giving it 8C+. What has happened lately is that the deflation has had also an impact of 8B+, which is now super wide. As almost nobody dares to put up an 8C+, even if the community gets stronger, also boulders that should be 8C's, are becoming 8B+'s.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


