NEWS

Pirmin Bertle, who has done six 9a's, did yesterday do his hardest route ever, which made him share the news that in April he did a 8C+ FA, Drop a line in Couisimbert and that he in August did the FA of Des scรจnes bizzarres dans la mine d'or 9a+ in Jansegg, video. Last week, he also did the FA of Mediomalomania 8C in Lindental, "but the hardest thing in my life I sent yesterday." Interesting is that he did not climb at all during the first six months of 2014 due to having caught bone mark edema. Then he just climbed very easily for some months until he started to work only on the 8C+ boulder. Interesting is also that he only trains five hours a week and never indoors. More info on his blog and on 8a tomorrow. :)

Drop a line 8C+ at Cousimbert, the real video from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

9a by Sachi Amma
21 November 2015

9a by Sachi Amma

Luka Fonda reports with a great picture that Sachi Amma managed to make the 3rd repeat of Water World 9a in the big cave of Osp. Earlier this year, the WC winner 2013 did five 9a+'s and one 9b.

8a+ (b) Joshua Ibbertson (11)
Joshua Ibbertson has done Primeur de luxe 8a+ (b) in Frankenjura and his father, James gives us the story. "We spent the half term holiday with some good friends of ours the Perwitsky family, who live the Frankenjura. They recommended we tried Primeur de Luxe due to the foggy conditions as it's quick to dry. Josh managed to do all the moves that day and link it overlapping sections. We returned the next day but it was his third day of climbing and his skin was too sore to pull on small holds so he took a rest day. Luckily the sun came out, dried the rock and we enjoyed really great conditions allowing him to get it in a couple of tries.

The boulder trend is growing stronger every year and the number of 8A's recorded in the data base 2015 is a new record, but when it comes to 8B+ ascents, we can see stagnation and for 8C's and harder, the number of ascents is actually decreasing. A possible explanation for this that has been discussed here on 8a before is that there is a boulder grade deflation going on, meaning that some 8B+'s actually deserve to be 8C's etc. On the other hand, 2015 has been a record year for 9a and harder ascents. My best guess is that close to 50 guys have done a 9a and more than a dozen - 9a+ or harder. As most of these ascents are repeats of routes put up in 2010 or earlier, we cannot say that the grade progress for routes has something to do with route grade deflation.

Stretching the fastest way to improve
Adam Ondra has extreme flexibility for drop knees, high steps and opening his legs. This is actually a part of his success story. If you could sit and rest like Adam does on the picture from Granitgrottan, you might be able to do harder routes! The training focus in the media and in the gyms seem to be finger strength and endurance. This means that most climbers have actually optimized their strength in these field, meaning it takes a lot of effort to improve. On the other hand, for the guys who do not stretch, some few hours could improve your flexibility making you climb harder. It just might be that it is 10 times more productive for your performance to spend one hour stretching than do a one hour session on the campus board.

Low price Belay Glasses from Czech republic
The CU belay glasses were introduced to the market nine years ago and lately many cheaper copies have been developed. Belay Glasses comes from the Czech Republic and offers their product for 77 Euros in comparison to the original 119 for the CUs. Comparing the two different products, having used the same pair CUs for eight years, the new cheaper ones logically do not feel the same although they still do the job, saving my neck from pain equally good, and with excellent visibility too. From a personal point of view, I like the CU's more discrete look, which is much nicer, and also how they fit my nose and head but on the other hand the cheaper ones feel much more robust. CU has solved this by including a solid plastic box and it would be good if Belay Glasses also offered such box. Overall, the Czech belay glasses seem to be of very good quality but with the current price difference, I still have to recommend the CU. They are made in Germany without almost any reclamation for several years. However, there will be a Christmas sale offering a special price of only Euro 39 for the Czech belay glasses, so it might be worth giving them the chance, even without the plastic box.

The death statistics of climbing the Top-10 highest mountains in the world make you wonder how some can take the risk. In fact, in the last two years more climbers than ever have died on Mount Everest with and over 200 bodies it is like a cemetery above the level ground. 2012 stats below come from The Economist and Wikipedia. 5 656 tops Mount Everest - 223 dead 306 K2 - 81 dead 283 Kangchenjunga - 40 dead 461 Lhotse - 13 dead 361 Makalu - 31 dead 3 138 Cho Oyu - 44 dead 448 Dhaulagiri - 69 dead 661 Manaslu - 65 dead 335 Nanga Parbat - 68 dead 191 Annapurna - 61 dead

Edu Marin has also done Chilam Balam 9a+ (b)
Edu Marin reports on Instagram that he has done Chilam Balam 9a+ (b). This summer he was focused on multi-pitches with his father who also belayed him on Chilam Balam. This was the fourth repeat of Barnabe Fernandez's 80 meters long endurance monster, which originally was given a 9b+. Edu has previously done 8 routes 9a or 9a+ and in 2006 he won the World Cup in Chamonix.

8C by Martin Strรกnรญk
Martin Strรกnรญk, #2 in the world championship in 2007, seems to be in his best shape ever having done seven boulders 8B and harder in 18 days, including The Story of 2 Worlds 8C. "5 days, icon of bouldering for me, hard battle with progress, moves and conditions, but luckily last day of the trip temperature allowed me to send this boulder! And good session on Il Trill, must come back! (c) ON_ OFF Productions

Papichulo 9a+ by Jonathan Siegrist during the night
EPICTV reports that Jonathan Siegrist has done Chris Sharma's Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana. (c) Samuel Elias ""Papichulo is an incredible 45 meter route. Itย’s involved, with a very pumpy and nerve-racking finish after a consistently tough first half." This was the third 9a+ for Jonathan and what makes this one so special is the fact that he up had to turn on his head lamp midways the route and continued to the top.