20 November 2015

Boulder stagnation and Route progress

The boulder trend is growing stronger every year and the number of 8A's recorded in the data base 2015 is a new record, but when it comes to 8B+ ascents, we can see stagnation and for 8C's and harder, the number of ascents is actually decreasing. A possible explanation for this that has been discussed here on 8a before is that there is a boulder grade deflation going on, meaning that some 8B+'s actually deserve to be 8C's etc. On the other hand, 2015 has been a record year for 9a and harder ascents. My best guess is that close to 50 guys have done a 9a and more than a dozen - 9a+ or harder. As most of these ascents are repeats of routes put up in 2010 or earlier, we cannot say that the grade progress for routes has something to do with route grade deflation.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ