NEWS

Laura Rogora has onsighted Fallo col dito nel buco in Grotti giving it a personal grade of 8a+. During the same day she also did an 8b+. Her two first 8c's she did when she was just 13 years old. In the 8a ranking game, the Italian senior champion is #2.

CAC Founder John Ellison Passed Away
Climbers Against Cancer was founded in 2012. The charity has raised some 400 000 euro, mainly through CAC T-shirt sales, income from which has been donated to different institutes. From an 8a interview from 2014: "The diagnosis is a terminal one so no cure in sight. I think being positive has played a major part in my dealing with the situation so far and happiness is key. It is true after all that happiness is reciprocal so if I am happy then those around me will be and so on."

A day with John Ellison - founder of Climbing Against Cancer from Polished Project on Vimeo.

9a again by Domen ยŠkofic
Domen ยŠkofic has done Fuck the system 9a in Santa Linya. The big knee drop moves were captured by Luka Fonda.

9a for Markovic and 8c flash for Garnbret
Domen ยŠkofic comes with amazing news on Facebook, "Special day for our crew today!!! Both @miiiinam (Mina Markovic) and @janja_garnbret made history today by doing a 9a (Fabela pa la enmienda) and 8c flash! (Rollito Sharma extension) Congrats girls, you're outstanding and a huge inspiration!" Mina won the Lead World Cup this year and Janja (16) was #7 but she participated in only three events, making the podium in all of them. In the European Championships she was #2. All of them come from Slovenia, which is one of the leading Climbing nations although it has just about two million residents. In the 8a Climber of the year list, Mina is #2, Domen #8 and Janja #12. More info to come. (c) Luka Fonda

8a and Vertical Life team up
The team of Vertical Life from South Tyrol is doing a great job in creating a world wide Climbing Topo App. The team follows strong ethical guidelines and collaborates exclusively with guidebook authors, locals and publishing houses. Many of the most recognized locals like Aris Theodoropoulos (Kalymnos guidebook), Andrea Gallo (Finale and Oltrefinale), Maurizio Oviglia (Sardinia), Markus Schwaiger (Zillertal) and Florian Wenter (Alpen en Bloc from Panico) believe in this promising service and system. This is why 8a decided to team up with Vertical Life. Together we will work on flexible Ranking Games for climbing events and gyms. A few days ago Vertical Life released the complete App update with some quite original functions, a modern style and new content, extending the offer also to Bouldering areas. You can download the App for Android and iOS and check out the climbing guide for 6 crags in Kyparissi, Greece, using this free code: 8ANU.
Download the App.

8c+ FA by Rafa Fanega (40)
Rafa Fanega, who started climbing 25 years ago, is having his best year ever. Last week he did the FA of Estado lamentable in Archidona, which is his third 8c+ in 2015. Previously, the 40-year-old did only one 8c+, which took place last year. In total, Rafa has recorded 1 410 routes, out of which one third are FAs. Most of his FAs are from Fin del Mundo outside Madrid, which has been one of the most popular crags in Spain recently, although it is closed between February 1st and June 15th.

Very few climbers do proper warming up. Instead, we warm up with super easy slow motion climbing, which is time-consuming and could create the wrong mind set. If instead you start your warming up with jumping up and down on jugs on a steep overhang where you increase the load, you save time and get a more explosive mind set. Having done some 30 moves during about 3 minutes you can start using your feet and within five minutes you can do big lock off moves. Later you can do the same on crimps meaning that within 8 - 10 minutes you can be ready to climb and give your best on the training with the right powerful mind set.

Roland Hemetzberger makes 9a+ FA
Roland Hemetzberger reports great Christmas news on Facebook and attaches a picture by Stefan Kuehn, "Oh yeahhhhhhhhh what a f***ing rad XMas present / After 20 years as a project I was able to send it today. I invested so much time in this piece of rock I can't believe it... For sure my hardest climb I ve ever done and it's a big honor for me to freed this old project from "Stefan Fรผrst" I don't know how hard I would suppose around 9a+ what ever rad one... cheers" The Austrian did a dozen 8c+'s previously and a couple of 9a's, and also an 8c+ on pre-placed trad gear. Many of his FAs has not been repeated yet.