BBC has made an interview with Ashima Shiraishi, where, among other things, she says her goal is to break records held by her male counterparts. The 14-year-old claims to be the only female to have done a 9a+ (Direct open your mind R1 in Santa Linya) and the youngest person to have reached that grade. It should be noticed that the route was originally a 9a until some holds broke and it was speculated that it might be a 9a+. Later Edu Marin repeated it saying it is still a 9a. The first woman to claim having done a 9a+ route was Josune Bereziartu (route: Bimbaluna), which has been subject of being downgraded.

Here are some of the amazing "world records" held by Ashima Shiraishi, most of which are actually also records for boys. Basing on her combined Route and Boulder tick list, she has been the best female rock climber in the world since she was 12 years old. Bear in mind that all her records have been done fast as she has very limited time for climbing outdoors, living and going to school in New York. Imagine how many 8C's and 9a+'s she could do if she was a professional climber! The picture from her Instagram, where she says her goal is to compete in the Olympics. Ashima's achievements: 9 years old: 8A, Chbalanke 10 years old: 8B, Crown of Aragorn 11 years old: 8A flash, Black Demon 8b+ flash, Omaha Beach 8c+ redpoint, Lucifer 13 years old: 8B+ Golden Shadow 9a Open Your Mind Direct R1

UKC reports that Dawid Skoczylas has done the third ascent of Mike Adams's Serenata 8C in Impossible roof in South Yorkshire. What makes the ascent even more impressive is the fact that Dawid has four kids and a full-time job. © Monika Janicka-Skoczylas "I am very pleased and surprised I did it. Relieved that a couple of years of effort (including time spent on Serenity and Serendipity) materialised in the ascent. Also relieved that I didn't get injured in the process! Brilliant line which can you can drop on almost every move."

ZA is now available for HD digital download! This short film strives to pioneer a new style of bouldering viewing complete with strong athletes, vibrant color, sweeping landscapes, and killer soundtracks. Follow along with Daniel Woods, Nalle Hukkataival, Dave Graham, and Nina Williams as they battle tall heights and hard numbers. Take a seat, turn down the lights, and prepare for the stunning imagery of Rocklands as you’ve never seen it before. Here is the link.

Felipe Ho Foganholo has done the first repeat of Felipe Camargo's Libertadores 8B+ in Ouro Preto. The 16-year-old did his first 8B last year and in 2016, Felipe has already done nine 8A's and harder. "I was trying this boulder for almost 8 months. During this time I spent tree trips for Ouro Preto MG as an investment for sending it! I belive that the most difficult part of the hole thing was battle with conditions. It was always raining and what had more afflicted me was that just the last grab was wetting (which the crux is to hold the swing on it) and all the other sequences was possible to figure out, because the boulder is a long roof... Certainly is the hardest ascent I have ever done! Here in Brazil 8B+ is definitively an step above... We just have 3 climbers which reach this step and is an honor to be one of them!"

Almost all gyms around the globe run Boulder comps at least every other month but very few run the Lead ones and it is the same trend for the national federations. Another example is that the IFSC plans to have four Euro Youth Boulder Cups but just one Lead Competition. The dilemma is that youngsters should not focus on Bouldering due to much greater risk of injuries, including also stress fractures in the growth plates. The main reason why both gyms and climbers prefer Boulder comps is the new format (60+ boulders in 2+ hours), which has nothing in common with the IFSC onsight Boulder rules on 4 - 6 boulders. In Sweden, more or less only the nationals (with some 20 participants) were organized last year in Lead, not counting two national Challenges with a totally new concept. The basic idea is to run the qualifications like a normal day at a crag, with no referees or belayers. You just open the gym up in the morning and invite the climbers to try any route. The point system is based on the 8a scorecard. The biggest invention, however, is that you get points also by the number of clips you do instead of scoring holds. In practice you get as many points for topping out a route as for coming to the eighth clip on a two grades harder route. If you want a full scorecard point table in order to try out, please contact [email protected]. All national lead comps in Sweden will be organized in this way in the future.

Old article from Huffington Post discussing - as in the heading - How Rock Climbing Does Your Mind And Body Good. - Boosts brain function - Reduces stress - Teaches valuable life skills - Builds muscles and endurance "Research shows that time spent outside may decrease symptoms of ADHD, improve memory, boost creativity and even wake your brain up with the same effect as drinking a cup of coffee."

Based on 2 000+ unique votes from the poll "Which skill do you lack the most?". 31 % Finger strength 24 % Endurance 18 % Mentality 15 % Flexibility 7 % Technique 5 % Other Most of climbers are focused on finger strength and endurance. What is quite interesting, although technique is seldom trained, climbers seem to think they do not lack this skill :)

Guillaume Glairont Mondet reports on his blog that he completed his long time project in Fontainebleau, "Le Pied à Coulisse", grading it an 8C+. Previously Guigui has done five 8C's in Font. How many sessions did you need to do "Le Pied à Coulisse"? It took me around 25 sessions over 3 years, 12 between October and January. Is it your style? I would say yes, even if there's a little bit of everything in it : heelhooks, toes, mantle, with both tension and a dynamic move. How do you split your time between comps and projecting? I take advantages when conditions are good to work maximum intensity outside. for this one, I could only manage 3 tries before been wrecked for a day. It's pretty complementary to my indoor training regime. You explain a lot about the grade in your blog post, but how did you came up with 8C+? For me, it was very tough to break down the climb. My friend Nico would say 8B into an 8B, I would say more 8A+ into 8B+, but anyway it doesn't make sense to me. I know for sure that there aren't a move below 7A, and some feel close to 8A in themselves. And there are 14 of them. If I try to compare with other problem in Font, as I said, it was clearly harder for me. If I compare it to the other 8C's I've tried on my recent trips, I come to this conclusion: Individual moves are nowhere as hard as Lucid Dreaming, but there are only two in that one. The Story of Two Worlds have more moves, but it climb faster and the moves are easier on this one. I tried also Insanity of Grandeur during a session, and it felt easier too. My trip in Swizzy was rather short, and it was vacation, but I could get a feeling of those. Pied à Coulisse took me way more efforts, it is my style, and I needed a rather special day to do it. It's continuous, strenght oriented, and has low percentage moves from the mantle till the end of the heady slab. That's why I chose this grade.

Oriane Bertone, 10, does 12 Boulders from 7C to 8A during two weeks in Rocklands. Her father, Stefano, explains, Typically, when we are in Rocklands, we start to climb at 7. In this moment the temperature is 35°C-45°C between 10 A.M. and 5h P.M. We made two sessions of 1h30/2h (one in the morning et one in de evening). Children climb twice and rest once in turn. After three days of climbing we stop one day to go sightseeing (see cave drawings, go to Lambert's Bay beach etc.). We change sectors regularly and we work on projects adapted to each child's level in these sites.