NEWS

Marius Morstad, who has been supporting the shoe industry with innovations for 25 years, hopes that the barefoot climber, Charles Albert, will inspire producers to take the next step. "Make the shoes softer, use sticky rubber all over the shoes and make them fit the foot without to much tension, use thinner rands and soles and look for ways to support the big toe without take away sensitive. This will accelerate and facilitate a natural evolution in climbing as a sport, the moves are there now and a new generation of climbers also, the future is already her." The production knowledge is already there. It is just a matter of cost versus demand. La Sportiva has pushed it with the no edge concept where sales have been low but are picking up and also their athletes have been able to cutomize mid-soles etc. With more climbers making the sport more commercial, and possibly Olympic medals to compete for, he thinks that the new generation of specialized shoes and prices are soon to come. It will start with guys like Adam Ondra getting custom-made shoes making him able to climb harder. In most of the other sports there is a huge price difference but until now this almost does not exist in climbing. Once the climbers are ready to pay Euro 400 for shoes that could sometimes make them climb one grader harder, they will start being produced.

Clayton Reagan has done his first 9a, I, Me and You in Texas. It was put up by Rupesh Chhagan as an 8c but later three guys have given it 9a. It is supposed to be an 8B+ linking a 7c+. "Had to use Vinny's liquid chalk to grab these little crimps. I didn't expect so much to do about a little route in Texas, but it is nice to see so much support from the community. Happy to put this one behind me. It is nice to think I still have a few year of competitive play left in these old bones. On to the next! I've been climbing 5.14 since the late 90's so I'd like to think this is the natural progress. I will be 37 in May. If my math is correct, I should be climbing 9a+ by the time I'm 40 right? Seems to be working for Ben Moon and Peyton Manning. "

Based on 1 100+ unique votes from the poll "Best Climbing Ropes?" we can see that there are three winning brands and then three runner-ups. In comparison to a similar poll from 2013, we can see that Beal is getting lower positions and that Mammut, Petzl and Tendon have made a great increase. 21 % Sterling (24 % in a similar poll 2013) 19 % Beal (26) 18 % Mammut (12) 13 % Edelrid (10) 12 % Tendon (8) 11 % Petzl (4) 5 % Other: Roca mentioned most often (16)

More development in Peloponnese - Greece
carl dawson, a 7c+ climber at the age of 65, has published a long article with great pictures describing the recent development in Peloponnese. Unless you're "in the know", most climbers link Greece with Kalymnos, although with the recent book Best of Greece: Sport Cimbing, the secret is out... there's more to climb in Greece than that busy little island in the Aegean Sea! The Peloponnese (that big 'lump' of mainland Greece down in the south) has seen a lot of activity with climbers from Patras, who kept quietly putting up seriously hard lines for some time. However, the emphasis has now swung quite clearly to the East coast of the Peloponnese, to the winter destination of Leonidio, the fabulous tufas of Kyparissi, and to Zobolo, Monemvasia and Nafplio. So get the flights booked to Athens now!"

James Webb has done his 36th flash of an 8A+ or harder Boulder by Bleu sacrรฉ in Fontainebleau, which is actually considered to be an 8B by most of climbers. Without his personal grades, the best flash boulderer in the world would have done almost 50 8A+ to 8B+. In the 8a ranking game, James has been more or less #1 the last five years and in fact, his trend diagram has been pointing steadily upwards for the last ten years.

The world's first D15 dry-tooling route
Planet Mountain reports that Tom Ballard has done the FA of A Line Above the Sky at Tomorrow's World in Dolomites, suggesting the first D15 in the world for it. "This is the hardest bit of climbing I have ever done. There are some very big ย‘shoulderyย’ moves, and then you must just keep going for close to 50 metres!" Thanks to Riky Felderer/CAMP for the picture. You can follow him on Instagram, @rikyfelderer

Plastic bags and shovels for human waste in Santa Linya etc
Climb in Peace have gathered some famous climbers like Adam Ondra and cleaned Santa Linya. They have also put up info signs how to get rid of human waste using a shovel and a plastic bag. Article from 8a suggesting the same thing in 2010.

The big island 8C and an 8B+ by James Webb
James Webb has had another low gravity day in Fontainebleu today. He did Toupie carnivore assis 8B+ and The Big Island 8C. (c) Neil Hart "Climbed the island a few years back. Got the full line on the quick today. Doesn't add much difficulty but def seems the better start. Quality! Back for some tries on the assis soon."

8C (B+) for Kevin Lopata in Font
Fanatic Climbing reports that kevin LOPATA has done Jour de Chasse 8C (B+) which Jan Hojer has put up. Last month, Kevin did his first 8C, Misti. "This Wednesday, I succeed in my current project "Jour de chasse" 8C, very hard compared to the other testpiece of the Opium boulder "Mรฉcanique รฉlรฉmentaire". The crux is to go up with the famous undercling of Narcotic to the slopers at the lip at the boulder. You need a very strong body tension for holding the final jug. Wonderful and so physical."