9 March 2016

Lopata says Misti is at least 8B+ while some even suggested 8A to 8B

Two months ago, Rock & Ice reported, "Kevin Lopata sends Misti, an 8c traverse (~V12)=8A+ in the forest of Fontainebleau, France. The traverse was established by Arnaud Ceintre in May 2009 and has only seen a handful of ascents since." This month Markus Jung did the line, video, and gave it a personal 8A grade in his scorecard. We reported 8B (8A) in the headline for Misti. Fanatic Climbing has presented a comment from Kevin Lopata in regards to how the media has been reporting this line, which in Bleau data base is categorized as an 8C traverse. โ€œFor me โ€œMisti is a boulder, not a traverse, it could not be under 8B+, so I didn't find 8C ridiculous. We were 5 repetitors who agreed with the proposed grade of 8C. Markus is a crimp master, has an extensive Frankenjura experience and to be honest it is completely normal for him to find "Misti" easy because it is spot on his style, a short resistance sequence and very crimpy ! In Font history, there is no difference between boulder and traverse gradings." It should be noted that Markus used a different sequence involving a knee bar and less moves compared to the FA-ionist and Lopata (189 cm tall) climbed.
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