8 March 2016
Classic boulders downgraded two grades or more
Perhaps almost half of the world's first 8B and harder Boulders have been or are subject to being downgraded. In general, Magic Wood sticks out and in fact, for two former 8B+'s there: Unendliche Geschichte Part 1 and High Spirit, also 8A has been suggested, i.e. three grades lower compared to the FA.
Here is the brutal list with some of the classics that have actually been downgraded at least two steps or where such personal gradings have been put forward.
8C+ Anam Cara, Silvretta
8C+ Memento, Silvretta
8C/+ Entlinge, Murgtal
8C Banshousha, Ogawayama
8B+ Mooiste Meisie, Rocklands
8B+ Madiba, Rocklands
8B Super Nova, Magic Wood
8B Massive Attack, Magic Wood
8B Sofa Surfer, Magic Wood
It should be noted that in order to try to present correct news 8a started to question some grades especially from Magic Wood some 15 years ago, as we could see that most of people who went there made their personal best. 8a used to be criticized for this but today everyone agrees with the downgradings and in many cases the community has actually been taking it further, as the above list illustrates. These brutal downgrades are also the reason why 8a do not think grades are so accurate and therefore slash grades should be used more often, which already works in Fontainebleau.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


