8 March 2016

Classic boulders downgraded two grades or more

Perhaps almost half of the world's first 8B and harder Boulders have been or are subject to being downgraded. In general, Magic Wood sticks out and in fact, for two former 8B+'s there: Unendliche Geschichte Part 1 and High Spirit, also 8A has been suggested, i.e. three grades lower compared to the FA. Here is the brutal list with some of the classics that have actually been downgraded at least two steps or where such personal gradings have been put forward. 8C+ Anam Cara, Silvretta 8C+ Memento, Silvretta 8C/+ Entlinge, Murgtal 8C Banshousha, Ogawayama 8B+ Mooiste Meisie, Rocklands 8B+ Madiba, Rocklands 8B Super Nova, Magic Wood 8B Massive Attack, Magic Wood 8B Sofa Surfer, Magic Wood It should be noted that in order to try to present correct news 8a started to question some grades especially from Magic Wood some 15 years ago, as we could see that most of people who went there made their personal best. 8a used to be criticized for this but today everyone agrees with the downgradings and in many cases the community has actually been taking it further, as the above list illustrates. These brutal downgrades are also the reason why 8a do not think grades are so accurate and therefore slash grades should be used more often, which already works in Fontainebleau.
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