NEWS

Interview with Angie Scarth-Johnson (11)
Our Spanish editor, Ignacio Sandoval Buron, has made an INTERVIEW with Angie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c this spring, being eleven years old. She has now been in Spain for three months, which is possible because she is home schooled by her non-climbing parents. Interestingly, the 11-year-old is her own trainer. Picยฉ The North Face Australia.

Adam Ondra has done Under vibes in Arco. During the same weekend, the 23-year-old onsighted also five 8a+ to 8b+ routes. In total, he has done 120 routes 9a and harder and onsighted 333 routes 8a+ and harder. The runner-up in these statistics, Ramon Julian Puigblanque has done 49 routes 9a and harder and onsighted 159 routes 8a+ and harder.

Goldrake 9a+ by Reffo Silvio
Silvio Reffo has done his second 9a+, Goldrake in Cornalba, after eight days of projecting. (c) Enrico Veronese - I started to try the route togheter with Stefano Ghisolfi, since the first attempts I had a good feeling. The route begins immediately with very intense climbing, after a partial rest there's a very hard and technical boulder where I fell many times. Finally yesterday I managed to climb the route and solve this jewel of Cornalba's crag.

8B FA by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done Carefully by Hand 8A+ and the FA of The Dark Daughter 8B in RMNP, which might be the hardest female FA in the world! - Trav into child of God, started matched sitting down right in the lowest part of the seam,, first stand up move is hard.. I'm sure tall people will blow off the first move but I couldn't reach the crimp while sitting.. It's much harder than carefully by hand in my opinion,, fun trav.

Barbara Zangerl does first ever repeat of an E9 from 2001
Barbara Zangerl, one of the leading multi-discipline climbers, has made the first ever repeat of Dave MacLeod's Achemine E9, a testpiece from 2001. (c) Riky Felderer - I tried first in toprope and it took me some time to get a good solution for the crux. The day after I gave one first lead try and fall. And the third day on....I fell once on the really last hard move. On the second try I was lucky enough! The protection is really good! There is a runout about 13m from the last camelot to the top. So you really can't fall on the last meters. But the hard part is done before. If you take a fall there, you take a biiiiiiiiig whipper. E-grades is used in UK and is a combination of how difficult and dangerous the route would be to onsight! In practice this works very well on easier routes indicating which route to onisght. For the harder routes that are always redpointed it is very hard to estimate the onsight grade. Based on the converter scales available, a safe E9 should be around 8b+.

In the male qualification, all Top-20 did all five boulders, which can be compared with the 12th semifinalist who did not do any boulder at all. More than 50% of the Top-13 were from Japan and there were just three Europeans, out of which two Russians. Among the female, all Top-3 were from Asia and the big sensation was that Shauna Coxsey did not make it to the final, although she won last four events. Interesting is also that half of the girls did not do a single boulder. Finals start at 15.00 Euro Time. Semi results.

Japan dominates in India
The first Boulder Would Cup in Mumbai, India, was a great show with extremely good results for Japan. Beside gaining two golds and getting another two medals, they had another three male in the Top-9. Semi results in brackets once again indicate upside-down result in the final in comparison with the semifinal. (c) Shinji Mizumura 1. Fuji Kokoro (5) JPN - Miho Nonaka (3) JPN 2. Tomoa Narasak (3) JPN - Monika Retschy (5) GER 3. Alexey Rubtsov (6) RUS - Akiyo Noguchi (2) JPN Complete results Interesting is also that runner-up Monika Retschy was second last in both the semifinal and the final as well before the last boulder which she onsighted. The two winners of the semifinal, Jongwon Chon and Sol Sa, were #4 and #5 in the final. This confirms that it seems more difficult to start last in the final.

The great documentary film about climbing in Yosemite is now available on Netflix. If there is one film you should see to get the background and the future of climbing, it is Valley Uprising! Trailer. Valley Uprising is the epic history of the Californian rock climbers. The larger-than-life characters of Yosemite carved out an "extreme bohemian" lifestyle in the Valley, living on red wine and boiled potatoes, clashing with National Park authorities, and pioneering the boldest climbs on Earth. The torch has been passed across three generations of climbers; through rivalries, tragedies and triumphs, the art of Yosemite climbing has advanced beyond anyone's imagination.

Here are the winners of the first Euro Youth Bouldering Cup: 97: Matteo Rosseau - Franziska Sterrer 99: Peter Ivanov - Asja Gollo 01: Allessandro Castellani - Laura Rogara Complete results

Tamas Zupan has set a new record of dedication by doing his second 8C, Zunami in Saalachtal, driving 7 000 kilometers to reach his goal. - I was there with my friend in the middle of March and I climbed some boulders in the lower sector and I tried Gizmo 8B, which is a variant of Zunami. I live 600 km far from Saalachtal and I could travel there only on Wednesdays because of my work. I woke up at 4:30 a.m., started my journey from home at 5 a.m. and I came in Saalachtal at 11 a.m. I climbed until 2 p.m. and I arrived at 8 p.m. I climbed โ€™Gizmoโ€™ on the second trip and finally I could manage โ€™Zunamiโ€™ on my 6th trip. The first move is incredible complex because in the same time you should move separately your all limbs when make the crossing movement, after it is really crimpy, overhanging and thatโ€™s why I really liked it.