17 June 2016
Honnold does not agree with UK ethics and grading
UKC has made an interview with Alex Honnold, who recently did some impressive grit stone routes. Interestingly he speaks out saying that he does not agree with the UK ethics and the grading.
- I think I have a pretty decent feel for UK climbing ethics and the grading scale and all that. I just donโt fully appreciate it I guess. I donโt see whatโs wrong with tasteful bolting. I love climbing and dislike all the faffing about that pure trad climbing requires. Iโd rather spend all that faffing time just climbing.
But obviously I respect the history of climbing in the UK and can certainly play by the imposed rules. I just donโt totally agree with them.
It can also be noted that Alex has recorded four grit routes from Fair Head including The Complete Scream which UKC reported as an E8 ascents which equivalents to a 7c+. Alex recorded it as a 7a+ commenting, "E7 6b, though it didn't really feel that hard."
14 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
5 June 2009
Honnold frees the Salathe wall in 8 hours
Alex Honnold has done the Salathe IAD, 8a in Yosemite. "Fell off last move of headwall linking pitches, then redpointed from the mid anchor. Bummer. Simuled theโฆ
20 September 2010
8b trad by Alex Honnold
Alex Honnold has done the trad route, The East Face, 8b in Smith rocks. Here is a long interview of his impressive mountain sends this summer.
18 January 2011
Four 8a+ OS by Honnold in booming Geyik bayiri
Alex Honnold during the last week has onsighted four 8a+' in Geyik bayirik Turkey. On two of the routes he confirmed downgrades. The other two he calls "soft".
If we made a Combined ranking including Big Wall, Boulder and Trad, Alex would be a candidate for the #1 position in the world, not countโฆ
Related news
5 June 2009
Honnold frees the Salathe wall in 8 hours
Alex Honnold has done the Salathe IAD, 8a in Yosemite. "Fell off last move of headwall linking pitches, then redpointed from the mid anchor. Bummer. Simuled theโฆ
20 September 2010
8b trad by Alex Honnold
Alex Honnold has done the trad route, The East Face, 8b in Smith rocks. Here is a long interview of his impressive mountain sends this summer.
18 January 2011
Four 8a+ OS by Honnold in booming Geyik bayiri
Alex Honnold during the last week has onsighted four 8a+' in Geyik bayirik Turkey. On two of the routes he confirmed downgrades. The other two he calls "soft".
If we made a Combined ranking including Big Wall, Boulder and Trad, Alex would be a candidate for the #1 position in the world, not countโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ



