Megan Mascarenas took an impressive victory in front of her home crowd topping out all four problems in just five tries. The lowest WC result since the 18-year-old won in Vail last year is #4, whereas one of her biggest successes is winning Adidas Rock Master. In the 8a ranking game she is #3 and she has not finished highschool yet. Shauna Coxey was #2, which means she has secured the overall victory 2016. Among the male, Kokoro Fujii won again and he is now in the overall lead in front of Tomoa Narasaki, who was second in Vail. #3 was Alexey Rubtsov, who also is #3 overall. Among the top-5, there were only guys from Japan or Russia and the biggest change this year is how Japan dominates the scene at the same time when the western Europeans are having their worst year ever. (c) Eddie Fowke

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a being 14 years old, has done Il traverso dei sogni 8c in Collevardo in five tries during one day. Later she onsighted Tomorrowland 8a+ and the 15-year-old is #1 in the female ranking game.

1. Shauna Coxsey 480 GBR - Tomoa Narasaki 362 JPN 2. Miho Nonaka 346 JPN - Kokoro Fujii 355 JPN 3. Melissa Le Neve 313 FRA - Alexey Rubtsov 307 RUS 4. Akiyo Noguchi 259 JPN - Rustam Gelmanov 267 RUS 5. Monika Retschy 229 GER - Jongwon Chon 264 KOR 6. Megan Mascarenas 220 USA - Sean McColl 232 CAN In the above rankings, the worst result has not been included. Shauna Coxsey has secured the overall title counting four victories and once being the runner-up. If Alexej wins the last event in Munich in August, Narasaki needs to be #6 and Fujii #4 to win overall. The biggest blow in 2016 is that Japan has strengthened their position and that western Europe is having the worst results ever among the male. However, this relates to the fact that only one male, Jan Hojer, has participated in at least all but one event.

Rafa Fanega, who started climbing in 1991, has done his fifth 8c+, La Chispa in Villanueva del Rosario. The amazing news is that the 41-year-old has done three of his 8c+'s during the last eight months. In the 8a ranking game for 40+, the 163 cm tall, who has made 55 8b to 8c+ FAs, is #2.

Drew Ruana has added 41 ascents to his new scorecard including his FA of The Assassin 9a in Smith Rock, Just do it 8c+, which he did when he was 14 years old and Direct North 8B+ in Bishop. In the combined 8a ranking game, the 16 year old is #6. - I have been climbing for about 13 years, but only seriously for the last eight. I joined a competitive team when I was 8. Since then, I've competed in the youth circuit, and I've climbed outside a lot. My best results are 1st place at the 2015 USA SCS youth, and 2nd place at 2014 WYCH. In the future, I want to send 9a+ and 8C, and have a 8c+ Onsight or flash. I hope to achieve these goals in the next five years His trainer is Tyson Schoene, who actually was babysitter by Drew's mother some 30 years ago a few times and since then, Tyson has had a close relationship with the Ruana family. - I had already worked with many top kids, our team was built of them, but early on you knew Drew was the exception. He had a drive that others didn't. But for the most part that drive was very different than many of the top kids out there. It wasn't like more hours in the gym or harder drills or anything like that. It was more like obsession with sending routes. When he was trying a route, it was, and is gnarly how dedicated to that moment he is. It's like nothing else matters. But in training, it was different. It was nothing spectacular. His climbing during training was good, but the training wasn't amazing. I mean I have a dozen kids that used to work harder than him. But he is smarter. He technically is better than most. His success comes because of the dedication from his family, my assistant coaches, friends and his team that all support him. He relies on all of us, more than he knows. His father and mother are some of the best people I know. They have raised him well and try to give him what he needs to be successful, but it's not just handed to him, he has to work for it. He is also a straight A+ student. He works very hard at that too. He does not like failure. No matter what aspect of his life it is coming from. I have said this 100 times, I am thankful for the opportunity to work with these kids, not just him, but all of them. They teach me things every day. They teach me about coaching, and training, and life.

112 athletes are scheduled to participate in the Vail Boulder World Cup, almost half out of which are from USA or Canada. Live streaming on Saturday - GMT -6 10:00 - 12:30 Semi-Finals Men and Women 16:30 Finals Men and Women

In the Kalymnos topo, there is a recommendation that the first bolt should be placed at 2.8 meters above the ground and the second at 4 meters. Aris Theodoropoulos got these regulations from the French climbing federation (FFME), which in 1992 published them in a book. In fact, FFME did suggest three categories. For example on children routes, the first bolt should be placed on 2.2 meters and the second at 3 meters. Kind of interesting is that most bolting in France seems not to have followed this recommendation at that time. Instead, everyone knows what old-school bolting is alike in France and the rest of the world. Although Kalymnos is known for the close bolting, they still need to put in more in order to follow the FFME anno 1992. Which are the crags you know with most bolts in the world. For me, it is the easier routes I have bolted around Göteborg.

Lena Herrmann, who did her first three 8c's last year, keeps steady progress by doing the FFA of Battle cat 8c+ in Frankenjura. In the 8a ranking game, she is #4. "Without the Jug in the lower part. So happy with this day :-) An incredible line. About 70 moves in the Frankenjura!!"