Sharma and Usobiaga trying something new

Patxi Usobiaga, the world's best overall Lead competitor between 2006 to 2010, when he was injured in a traffic accident, has become the first trainer of Chris Sharma. Patxi says it was his hard training that made him become the world champion and it is very interesting that he did not go for the common full periodization training. Instead he combined campus, bouldering and endurance on the same day and this is also how he works with Sharma and Ondra. - Everyone is different and it is about motivation and having fun. There is nothing wrong with a strict robot training as long as you find it fun and you learn from it. Ondra and Sharma have a different approach but basically I give them a scheme with similar excercises to follow. The PUC concept always combine different challenges. Even while focusing on endurance, we need to do boulder or campus to keep it fun and more motivating. Both Chris and Adam are famous for becoming the best in the world just by climbing rather than train in a systematic approach. Chris says he was curious to try out something new and as he started up his gym and has just become a father, it was the perfect timing. - It is interesting, fun and motivating to try something new. I could continue going to Oliana putting up a new 9b or even harder but that would be doing the same over again. Now my focus is to set up a new 9a multi-pitch in amazing settings with Klemen Becan. I plan to continue to follow the PUC training until there are better conditions for our project.