UKC has made an interview with Alex Honnold, who recently did some impressive grit stone routes. Interestingly he speaks out saying that he does not agree with the UK ethics and the grading. - I think I have a pretty decent feel for UK climbing ethics and the grading scale and all that. I just don’t fully appreciate it I guess. I don’t see what’s wrong with tasteful bolting. I love climbing and dislike all the faffing about that pure trad climbing requires. I’d rather spend all that faffing time just climbing. But obviously I respect the history of climbing in the UK and can certainly play by the imposed rules. I just don’t totally agree with them. It can also be noted that Alex has recorded four grit routes from Fair Head including The Complete Scream which UKC reported as an E8 ascents which equivalents to a 7c+. Alex recorded it as a 7a+ commenting, "E7 6b, though it didn't really feel that hard."

Isabelle Faus has done two 8B's, The Automator in RMNP and Evil Backwards in Mt Evans. During the last year, she has done one 8B+, five 8B's and nine 8A+'s and she is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game. - I think my progress is a result of just doing my own thing and enjoying climbing, quitting competition climbing has helped me the most I was always to focused in the gym, trying hard but not really accomplishing anything, and even if I did well in a competition it wasn't satisfying because in the end it is just plastic. Climbing on rock means new experiences every day and that keeps it fun and motivating for me.

Laura Rogora, the regining Italian Champion in both Lead and Boulder, trains at a small gym outside Rome. - It took me about 15-20 tries in one month and half. I went to Sperlonga seven times. I didn't do a specific training for this route because my purpose is training for competition.

Pirmin Bertle has done South America's first 9a, video, Azul es el cielo de los ciegos (Blue is the sky of the blind) in Patagonia. Last year he did first a 8C+ FA and in November a 9b FA. Then he took the boat from Italy to Buenos Aires for some real family adventure. Full story and pictures on his blog, which finishes like this: "The causal game. My baby is sleeping on the canyons ground, my cheering rather soft, more of relieve than happiness. What kind of a struggle! What logistic strain. To get for more than 30 tries, 12 days, 4km deep into this volcanic crack. 4km back, sometimes at night. And Jules, our 4 years old son, who walks this distance not only once all on his own. He is the true star in this story. My girlfriend and my baby girl. Thank you my family! Love you so much."

Rock climbing often means that your power and your gripping position drops. The reason for this is that you more seldom climb on crimps outdoors and at the same time you often get high level of lactic acid in your muscles. The easiest way to regain power is doing some campus recruitment sessions. Actually, the best thing is to do some campus warming up before going to the rock but no contact more than 1 second. In fact, you should warm up with the same gripping position as on the project you are going for. After a session outdoors, you can do some normal strength training if you plan to have a rest day. Just hang on the rungs for 6 - 10 seconds and rest one minute. Once you feel you are getting weaker, increase the rest and once you start dropping in power, you should stop. A training article.

Jongwon Chon, the #1 in IFSC Bouldering ranking, has flashed Bear toss 8B in RMNP. Next day he did Jade 8B+ in his third go. Later he took a 7 meter fall and had to go to hospital for some stitching. © Eddie Fowke/The Circuit Climbing has the story. - Walking a cliff edge path between boulders a hold broke and pitched him 20 feet off a cliff. Luckily his years of bouldering experience saved him from major damage. He's incredibly lucky to get away with some nasty cuts.

During 2014, I bolted 80 routes in Lysekil in Bohuslän and 6 anchor bolts in Utby. Both areas are well-known for trad climbing. I had informed the chairmen of the two local clubs of my intention and I did follow the local bolt policy. First the six anchor bolts were sabotaged and so were the 80 routes later. The three guys that did it had not talked to their local club. They just thought they could decide by themselves. After many discussions, both local clubs and the national Federation took decisions in order to facilitate the bolting. Even the local municipality have stepped forward to support bolting. In Utby, the six anchor bolts have been replaced with some 60 bolts creating the most popular sector and in Lysekil the rebolting has started, see picture.