In the beginning of the Climbing era and also mainly in Trad and Bouldering, you did not do the climb until you stood on the top. In Sport climbing and Lead comps we say that we have done routes just because we clip artificially placed anchors. In same rare cases, it is actually the crux to clip the anchor just because the bolter placed it wrong. In such cases, there is nothing wrong with prolonging the anchor with an extra quickdraw, especially for children. If you onsight and you reach the last hold but are unable to clip the anchor because of your reach, I think it could be considered as a valid ascent. Possibly, you should give it a lower grade if the FA added a grade just because clipping was the crux.

97: Kajsa Rosén SWE - Sergei Bydetev RUS 99: Eva Maria Hammelmüller ITA - Jakub Konecny CZE 01: Laura Rogora ITA - Noe Moutault FRA Overall, Italy and France had the best results, braking the domination Austria has had for several years. Among the big climbing nations that had relatively weak results were as usual Germany and Spain. There were also Speed Championships and interestingly, Sam Avezou from France was fifth at 8.50 seconds, which is around the result of Sean McColl's, who is the only senior who has participated in Combined for several years. Last year, Sam won the Youth Worlds in Lead and this year he has won the three last Euro Cups in Boulder including the last Championship. A bit early said, but this 15-year-old could be a man for Tokyo 2020.

Rock & Ice has published yet another article focusing on how fast some guys did a big wall. Is this really interesting? "Stack and Caldwell’s ascent is likely the first time Mount Hooker has been climbed car to car free in a day." It may be interesting to follow the amazing speed records for the nose but should R & I make a new article if someone, including the running, cuts off hours or minutes for Mount Hooker "car to car" for the current record? Sport climbers are sometimes criticized for being so grade focused instead of centering on the beauty of climbing. Does it not send the wrong message to the big wall community if the media so often write articles on speed climbing on big walls? Is it not enough that there will be Speed climbing focus in Tokyo 2020?

In order to be ranked in the Combined World Cup, you need to have results in two disciplines. From the results 2016 we can see that only a couple of male and female have actually gotten semi results during 2016. In previous years, more athletes did compete successfully in both Lead and Boulder but now it seems that almost everyone has chosen to specialize in just one discipline. In fact, the only two athletes that have participated in more than two events in at least two disciplines are Sean McColl and Jakob Schubert. Not one female has actively competed in two or more disciplines. The combined format failure in the World Cup 2016 is confirmed. By checking the starting list for the World Championship you can see that only Sean McColl and Charlotte Durif have signed up by the guys who regularly do the semis in at least two disciplines. Could this be considered as a silent protest towards the Olympic Combined format?

Five Ten talks about WideBoyz', Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall's, new secret trad project in The White Rim in Monument Basin - The Crucifix. The mono roof crack is estimated to be an 8a into an 8B+ Boulder into an 8b meaning it should be at least 8c+. Previously the Wideboyz were famous for putting up The Century Crack 8c, which goes in a 40 meter roof. It took them two years including working on an almost exact replica. The only 8c+ trad route in the world is Beth Rodden's Meltdown.

Dani Fuertes has done his fifth 9a in 2016, the FA of Siempre inconformado in Rodellar and he goes to #6 in the 8a ranking game. Photo by Silvia Borgoñon - The route is an old project from Dani Andrada and it shares the start with Siempre libre 9a. After a very hard crux, you climb the last moves of the route Inconformistas 9a. Without a doubt the more difficult sequence of moves of these routes. 25 meters makes up this incredible route in the roof of that cave.

Send Climbing has sent us some knee pads to try out and they are actually so confident that they present it as "The Downgrader". Earlier this summer Jorg Verhoeven actually gave an Hueco Tanks 8A a personal grade of 7B because of using a knee pad. Some have actually said knee pads are getting so good that they should be forbidden both on rock and in competitions and Send Climbing's super sticky version belongs to this group. 8a can just agree that this is the best knee pad we have ever tested and it is also very user friendly. We can also agree on all their listed selling points.

The well-known German publishing house Panico Alpinverlag has started a long-term partnership with Vertical-Life, developer of the fastest growing digital guidebook app. 13 Panico guides of the most important areas in Germany have already been digitalized, as reported by Vertical-Life. More are to follow soon. The available app guides include the brand new 10th edition of the Frankenjura guides by Sebastian Schwertner. The Vertical-Life App now covers more than 2,000 Sport Climbing, Bouldering and Multipitch spots all over Europe, as well as Yosemite. Climbing guide authors can contact [email protected] for more information on cooperation opportunities. Download the App here.

Angelina Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c route when she was 9 years old, has done two 7C+ Boulders and Panoptikum 8A. "The Cruxs is trying to stay off the ground."