5 September 2016
Clipping/Grabbing/Prolonging anchor ethics
In the beginning of the Climbing era and also mainly in Trad and Bouldering, you did not do the climb until you stood on the top. In Sport climbing and Lead comps we say that we have done routes just because we clip artificially placed anchors.
In same rare cases, it is actually the crux to clip the anchor just because the bolter placed it wrong. In such cases, there is nothing wrong with prolonging the anchor with an extra quickdraw, especially for children.
If you onsight and you reach the last hold but are unable to clip the anchor because of your reach, I think it could be considered as a valid ascent. Possibly, you should give it a lower grade if the FA added a grade just because clipping was the crux.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
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Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


