EDIT: David Firnenburg repeated AD the same day as the article below was published. In 2016 we have seen an increase in the number of 9a ascents, with possibly 50%. At the same time, we have not seen an ascent of Action Direct for 16 months, which should be the standard 9a nowadays, even if it originally counted as an 8c+/9a. As none of the previous 18 ascents of Action Direct has been done during the months between November and March, most likely we are getting closer to actually getting two years without an ascent of the standard 9a. This indicates that Action Directe is actually more difficult than the current 9as that are put up and repeated frequently in 2016, i.e. the grade deflation continues. In practice this means that the original 8c+/9a Action Directe might possibly deserve another upgrade!

Magnus Högström, one of the most dedicated Swedish climbers of the last 15 years with an 8c+ FA and #12 place in one World Cup, guided Alex Megos around Göteborg last weekend. - We started with the Trainspotting project and I could immediately see that he had bad skin and Alex told me it was his eleven day on. After a dozen tries he failed on the last move and the fingers were even worse. No rest, he just kept going. Once back in the gym he started training... The next day I did show him an 8B which he did and then he went back to the gym for some training again. On Sunday he called me asked if I could spot him on Trainspotting again and he showed up with three taped fingers and sent it on his first try. Later he flashed all the four boulders from the Swedish Championship, in his sneakers. Climbing with Alex has really been a eye-opener and a motivator for me. On the other hand, if I would have pushed myself that hard, I would probably gotten injured and Alex says he has never been injured. He is so easy going but on the other side totally obsessed in a very nice way.

Jernej Kruder has done the first repeat of Chris Sharma's Es Pontas in Mallorca. We have been promised the full story tomorrow once he wakes up after the big celebration party. Already three weeks ago he started to report about his Es Pontas challenge on Instagram and during the process he also onsighted The Weather Man 8a+ and a couple of 8a DWS. In 2014, the Slovenian was #2 in the Bouldering World Championship and together with 8C respectively 9a+ and also some impressing MPs, he was one of the best multi discipline guys out there already before his DWS success. Chris never graded it but agreed that it might be a 9b. (c) Kerstin Helbach

Alex Megos contacted 8a in order to say that he has just climbed a totally manufactured 9a+ in Frankenjura, and raising some follow-up questions. Is chipping still an issue or is it widely accepted now? Is it ok to chip? Did I miss something?" The chipping era occurred some 20 years ago and 8a has been fighting hard for it to stop for 15 years. The greatest spokesman for this has been also Adam Ondra. One chipping dilemma is of course that it takes some guts to officially discredit routes like Ondra and Megos do as it is also criticism of the FA. One possibility to stop chipping could actually be that sponsored athletes sign a "No-Chipping" contract saying that they loose all their benefits, like a suspended anabola athlete, if it turns out that they have manufactured routes. Such contract could also include a paragraph saying that once they report that they have done a manufactured route, they are recommended to include this fact. Chipping info would also be valuable for the media as we would have less interest in reporting it, meaning also that the athlete would have less interest to redpoint a manufactured route. From the 8a perspective, we could also stop giving points for redpoints of chipped routes.

Datça'da tırmanış sezonu açıldı! Türkiye'nin taze tırmanış bölgelerinden Datça'da tırmanış sezonu açıldı. Kış aylarının yaklaşmasıyla tırmanışçılar Güney'e inmeye başladı. İklimi, konumu, sağlam enfes turuncu kayası, 300'e yakın spor rotası ile Datça tırmanışçıları bekliyor. 12 metrelik kısa ve eğimli atletik rotalardan 45 metrelik kolonet tırmanışlarına ve bol krimpli duvarlara kadar her türlü tarzda tırmanış imkanı bulmak mümkün. Kamp ve bilgi için İlgi 05356861230 ve Onur 053668011977

Dai Koyamada, one of the leading climbers in the world of the last 25 years, reports on Facebook that he has done Corona 9a+ in Frankenjura. "Today I sent Corona 9a+. It was third day since my first try on 19th Oct during this trip. After I failed just below the anchor last Friday, I was not able to try it due to a slight cold and bad weather condition. And finally crag got dry and gave me an chance to try today. However, it was still warm and humid and not the best condition but I was able to send it at the last go of today. It was a great route. So now, I’m glad to send the route which I really wanted to do and want to express my appreciation to Markus Bock for his first ascent."

Martin Stráník, who got the silver in the World Championship 2007, has done three 8B+s in Magic Wood in just one week. Check out Martin's Youtube channel. "It was a great week with a great conditions, sadly I must be back in job. Magic Wood is really one of the best areas in Europe. Many hard and high quality problems in amazing nature. For me there are few options for winter, hopefully I will get enough support to be a profile climber and finally I could be well prepared for the World Cup season. Tokyo sounds really good and for me it is huge motivation to be part of Olympic games, but it depends on format of our discipline."

Adam Ondra is midway up on the Dawn Wall working on pitches 14 - 16 graded: 9a, 9a and 8c. After that it eases off to 8b+ and more easier grades, topping out with pitch 32. In total there are 16 pitches graded 8a+ and harder. (c) Ondra Instagram, Pavel Blazek

Talo Martin is our new editor for Spain and Furkan Akkaya/Tanager are our new editors for Turkey. For Poland it is Daga who translates all news. If you are interested in helping out with translation for other countries and adding local news just send an e-mail to [email protected].

William Bosi's coach Tom Randall has helped us out with some follow up questions to the 18-year-old who just did Hubble 9a (8c+). (c) Hot Aches Productions "What is perhaps most remarkable is that he’s only recently completed an endurance style 9a and repeated Malcolm Smith’s short Monk Life 8B+. His background in competition style training and energy systems periodisation has meant he has a very rounded profile in climbing and is capable of climbing short, long, cruxy or mid-length." Does Malc Smith have influence on you? Did his ascent of Hubble inspire you? Or his replica stuff…? Yes I do have to say he has been a big influence on my climbing for many years, guess that's what living in Scotland does. The film of his replica and the ascent have got me very psyched before! On this route, was its name, grade or history? Or just happy to try a cool route? Or something else? The name and the history are the same thing aren't they? And of course the history is what got me psyched to try it! It's been a dream of mine for many years now because of the history, and hearing about the more recent failed attempt by people like Ondra. Do you think Olympic format training (the combo) is compatible with being a top outdoor climber? No I do not, Or at least not yet as the format isn't definite yet. I think you could fit in the odd day or weekend but projects would be almost impossible in my opinion. What's more important to you? A pyramid of loads of hard routes, or just a few mega hard, mega inspiring projects? The most important thing for me is just try do whatever I am psyched for, it doesn't matter if it's 9a or 7a. If it's got me psyched I will to do it! Because of this I have a really bad grade pyramid.