28 October 2016

Bosi's comments on Hubble through coach Randall

William Bosi's coach Tom Randall has helped us out with some follow up questions to the 18-year-old who just did Hubble 9a (8c+). (c) Hot Aches Productions "What is perhaps most remarkable is that he’s only recently completed an endurance style 9a and repeated Malcolm Smith’s short Monk Life 8B+. His background in competition style training and energy systems periodisation has meant he has a very rounded profile in climbing and is capable of climbing short, long, cruxy or mid-length." Does Malc Smith have influence on you? Did his ascent of Hubble inspire you? Or his replica stuff…? Yes I do have to say he has been a big influence on my climbing for many years, guess that's what living in Scotland does. The film of his replica and the ascent have got me very psyched before! On this route, was its name, grade or history? Or just happy to try a cool route? Or something else? The name and the history are the same thing aren't they? And of course the history is what got me psyched to try it! It's been a dream of mine for many years now because of the history, and hearing about the more recent failed attempt by people like Ondra. Do you think Olympic format training (the combo) is compatible with being a top outdoor climber? No I do not, Or at least not yet as the format isn't definite yet. I think you could fit in the odd day or weekend but projects would be almost impossible in my opinion. What's more important to you? A pyramid of loads of hard routes, or just a few mega hard, mega inspiring projects? The most important thing for me is just try do whatever I am psyched for, it doesn't matter if it's 9a or 7a. If it's got me psyched I will to do it! Because of this I have a really bad grade pyramid.
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