31 October 2016

Let sponsored climbers sign "No-Chipping" contract

Alex Megos contacted 8a in order to say that he has just climbed a totally manufactured 9a+ in Frankenjura, and raising some follow-up questions. Is chipping still an issue or is it widely accepted now? Is it ok to chip? Did I miss something?" The chipping era occurred some 20 years ago and 8a has been fighting hard for it to stop for 15 years. The greatest spokesman for this has been also Adam Ondra. One chipping dilemma is of course that it takes some guts to officially discredit routes like Ondra and Megos do as it is also criticism of the FA. One possibility to stop chipping could actually be that sponsored athletes sign a "No-Chipping" contract saying that they loose all their benefits, like a suspended anabola athlete, if it turns out that they have manufactured routes. Such contract could also include a paragraph saying that once they report that they have done a manufactured route, they are recommended to include this fact. Chipping info would also be valuable for the media as we would have less interest in reporting it, meaning also that the athlete would have less interest to redpoint a manufactured route. From the 8a perspective, we could also stop giving points for redpoints of chipped routes.
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