Dai Koyamada, one of the leading climbers in the world of the last 25 years, reports on Facebook that he has done Corona 9a+ in Frankenjura. "Today I sent Corona 9a+. It was third day since my first try on 19th Oct during this trip. After I failed just below the anchor last Friday, I was not able to try it due to a slight cold and bad weather condition. And finally crag got dry and gave me an chance to try today. However, it was still warm and humid and not the best condition but I was able to send it at the last go of today. It was a great route. So now, I’m glad to send the route which I really wanted to do and want to express my appreciation to Markus Bock for his first ascent."

Martin Stráník, who got the silver in the World Championship 2007, has done three 8B+s in Magic Wood in just one week. Check out Martin's Youtube channel. "It was a great week with a great conditions, sadly I must be back in job. Magic Wood is really one of the best areas in Europe. Many hard and high quality problems in amazing nature. For me there are few options for winter, hopefully I will get enough support to be a profile climber and finally I could be well prepared for the World Cup season. Tokyo sounds really good and for me it is huge motivation to be part of Olympic games, but it depends on format of our discipline."

Datça'da tırmanış sezonu açıldı! Türkiye'nin taze tırmanış bölgelerinden Datça'da tırmanış sezonu açıldı. Kış aylarının yaklaşmasıyla tırmanışçılar Güney'e inmeye başladı. İklimi, konumu, sağlam enfes turuncu kayası, 300'e yakın spor rotası ile Datça tırmanışçıları bekliyor. 12 metrelik kısa ve eğimli atletik rotalardan 45 metrelik kolonet tırmanışlarına ve bol krimpli duvarlara kadar her türlü tarzda tırmanış imkanı bulmak mümkün. Kamp ve bilgi için İlgi 05356861230 ve Onur 053668011977

Talo Martin is our new editor for Spain and Furkan Akkaya/Tanager are our new editors for Turkey. For Poland it is Daga who translates all news. If you are interested in helping out with translation for other countries and adding local news just send an e-mail to [email protected].

William Bosi's coach Tom Randall has helped us out with some follow up questions to the 18-year-old who just did Hubble 9a (8c+). (c) Hot Aches Productions "What is perhaps most remarkable is that he’s only recently completed an endurance style 9a and repeated Malcolm Smith’s short Monk Life 8B+. His background in competition style training and energy systems periodisation has meant he has a very rounded profile in climbing and is capable of climbing short, long, cruxy or mid-length." Does Malc Smith have influence on you? Did his ascent of Hubble inspire you? Or his replica stuff…? Yes I do have to say he has been a big influence on my climbing for many years, guess that's what living in Scotland does. The film of his replica and the ascent have got me very psyched before! On this route, was its name, grade or history? Or just happy to try a cool route? Or something else? The name and the history are the same thing aren't they? And of course the history is what got me psyched to try it! It's been a dream of mine for many years now because of the history, and hearing about the more recent failed attempt by people like Ondra. Do you think Olympic format training (the combo) is compatible with being a top outdoor climber? No I do not, Or at least not yet as the format isn't definite yet. I think you could fit in the odd day or weekend but projects would be almost impossible in my opinion. What's more important to you? A pyramid of loads of hard routes, or just a few mega hard, mega inspiring projects? The most important thing for me is just try do whatever I am psyched for, it doesn't matter if it's 9a or 7a. If it's got me psyched I will to do it! Because of this I have a really bad grade pyramid.

Black Diamond comes with promising news from Adam Ondra, who is high up on the Dawn Wall. (c) Heinz Zak. "Another day in the office;-) We hauled up and set up the portaledge up on the Dawn Wall yesterday. I got to the top of pitch 16, and worked the moves of 14, 15 and 16 till late night. These are three of the hardest pitches on the whole climb, on every pitch I missed one little piece into the puzzle, but with better skin and colder conditions (which are on the way), I will hopefully have these pitches super wired soon. Pitch 14 has this really mysterious last boulderproblem, seemingly blank, but offering a few razorblades that are just horrible to look. The previous boulderproblems on this pitch felt very good. Pitch 15 has this really small razorblade that I did not want to pull in these warm conditions so I would cut my skin open. The rest of the pitch felt good. Pitch 16 has this crazy dyno that definitely felt hard. I did not do the single move, but there is always an option to make the loop variation. The rest of the pitch is tricky and insecure but I found my way. Next days I think I will work on these three pitches if the weather allows."

The Speed Climbing world record holder, Danyil Boldirev, will run a camp in Slovenia and Austria 16-20/11. ICC has helped ous out with getting some interesting comments from 194 cm Danyil, who will also start training Lead and Boulder in hope to make it to the Olympics. "Lead climbers speed training is really good and it could just help you to improve also in lead especially for girls. The good combination of all three discipline is actually perfect training. It would be much more interesting with classic speed, so that there is different route on every competition. I heard that there will be criteria on last two years before Olympics and for example they will choose first five from last world championship combined, first five in World Cup 2019 overall and all the continental champions. But I think this is not official yet."

This is the first free ascent of this route, which was set up by Patrice Glairon-Rapaz. It´s composed of 5 pitches, 4 of which are between 8b and 8c and after this free ascent we could be talking about one of the hardest MP in France. As he says on his Facebook page, Cédric redpointed on his third day on the route. This is one more MP success for him after repeating the famous Orbayu two years ago. Cédric is both a successful competition and outdoor climber who won both world cup and world championships. Photo by Raphael Fourau.

Black Diamond dan Dawn Wall'un tepesindeki Ondra'yla ilgili heyecanlı haberler geliyor. (c) Heinz Zak. "Ofiste bir gün daha;-) Dün platformu yukarı taşıyıp duvara kurduk. 16. ip boyunun istasyonundan gece olana kadar 14., 15. ve 16. ip boylarındaki hamlelere çalıştım. Bu üçü tüm tırmanışın en zor ip boyları ve her ip boyunda yapbozun küçük bir parçasını gözden kaçırıyorum, fakat daha iyi parmak derisi ve daha soğuk şartlarda(ki geliyor), umarım yakında bu ip boylarına bir ayar vereceğim. 14. ip boyunda esrarlı bir son kısa kaya problemi var, tutacak bir şey yokmuş gibi görünüyor fakat aslında bakması bile korkunç birkaç jilet tutamak var. Bu ip boyunun önceki bölümlerine ise gayet iyi hissettim. 15. ip boyunda bu sıcak koşullarda tutmayı hiçte istemediğim jilet gibi bir tutamak var, derimin soyulmasını istemiyorum. İp boyunun kalanı ise fena değil. 16. ip boyunda şu çılgın atlayış var ki kesinlikle zor. Hiç denemedim ama bir başka versiyonu da mevcut. İp boyunun kalanı alengirli ve tırstırıcı ama ben kendimce bir yol buldum. Sanırım önümüzdeki günlerde hava koşulları izin verirse bu üç ip boyuna çalışacağım."

Rock & Ice reports that Joe Kinder, who previously has done six 9as, has done the FA of Bone Tomahawk in the Fynn Cave after six years and some 40 days of projecting. (c) Tristan Greszko. "Regarding the grade, Kinder says, it could be “a normal 9a [5.14d] or a 9a+ [5.15a], but hell.... I don't know and don't want to state anything I'm not comfortable with. What’s next on the docket for Kinder? “The extension,” he says, which “[tacks] on an 8b+ [5.14a]. I linked the section yesterday.... I can do it!” It should be noted that R & I has given it 9a/+. Such slash grade is normally used when you define that the difficulty is exactly in between two grades. Joe seems to indicate that the grade is rather either of the two grades, that is why 8a has reported it as 9a (+). Furthermore, slash grades are hardly ever used by the community nowadays.