28 October 2016

Promising news from Ondra being high up on the Dawn Wall

Black Diamond comes with promising news from Adam Ondra, who is high up on the Dawn Wall. (c) Heinz Zak. "Another day in the office;-) We hauled up and set up the portaledge up on the Dawn Wall yesterday. I got to the top of pitch 16, and worked the moves of 14, 15 and 16 till late night. These are three of the hardest pitches on the whole climb, on every pitch I missed one little piece into the puzzle, but with better skin and colder conditions (which are on the way), I will hopefully have these pitches super wired soon. Pitch 14 has this really mysterious last boulderproblem, seemingly blank, but offering a few razorblades that are just horrible to look. The previous boulderproblems on this pitch felt very good. Pitch 15 has this really small razorblade that I did not want to pull in these warm conditions so I would cut my skin open. The rest of the pitch felt good. Pitch 16 has this crazy dyno that definitely felt hard. I did not do the single move, but there is always an option to make the loop variation. The rest of the pitch is tricky and insecure but I found my way. Next days I think I will work on these three pitches if the weather allows."
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