Alex Megos has opened the first 8B+ in Sweden, Trainspotting in Göteborg, which he says is definitely one of his greatest Boulder FAs ever. The high ball has been a project for 20 years and Alex rappelled down first to check out the scary top-out. "The boulder has a concave frontside so it gets steeper and steeper the higher you climb. Except from the first 2 moves all the moves are hard and balancy. The problem is that the holds are all turned in the wrong direction and there are no footholds in the right positions. So if you could turn one or two holds 90° it would probably not be harder then 8A. The way it is you have to do the moves as slow as possible to get the holds right but the problem is as soon as you let go with one hand you start to fall out. The wall has a few crack systems through it so all the holds are crimps on the edge of the cracks. Some of them are slightly incut but most of them are slopy. The last move is a big throw from a decent sloppy crimp to the a big jug up and left with really poor feet and you are high off the ground as well. " Göteborg is said to be the closest connected to a big climbing area city in the world. Trainspotting is just in the middle of all 1 000+ climbs up to five pitches, which you reach from the city center within 12 minutes including 3 minutes walk from the train station. (c) Daniela Ebler

Christian Münch has done the FA of his project in Kochel calling it From doubt to confidence and proposing the 9a grade, which would be his first one. It has been the longest project for the German climber so far. This year his previous best was 8c and some days ago he did his second 8b onsight, meaning that he is probably in his best shape ever. (c) Rene Golker

EDIT: David Firnenburg repeated AD the same day as the article below was published. In 2016 we have seen an increase in the number of 9a ascents, with possibly 50%. At the same time, we have not seen an ascent of Action Direct for 16 months, which should be the standard 9a nowadays, even if it originally counted as an 8c+/9a. As none of the previous 18 ascents of Action Direct has been done during the months between November and March, most likely we are getting closer to actually getting two years without an ascent of the standard 9a. This indicates that Action Directe is actually more difficult than the current 9as that are put up and repeated frequently in 2016, i.e. the grade deflation continues. In practice this means that the original 8c+/9a Action Directe might possibly deserve another upgrade!

Alexander Feichter, who previously has done three 9a's and five 8B's, has done the FA of The Mystical Patatohead´s Direct Edge 8C in Gais after seven days of projecting. It was opened on top-rope by Martin Moser in 2004 who also used the right crack and called it 8C. Alexander opted for just using the edge making the grade more solid but says it not an elimination. Full novel story in his scorecard. "It is by far the most difficult boulder I have ever climbed in a boulder area until this day. If one stays underneath of it, the direct edge seems almost impossible." Video

Black Diamond has got the latest update on Ondra's Dawn Wall challenge. Here is a part of his quote. Adam has spent several days working on two 9as and two 8cs. (c) Pavel Blazek "Complexity and difficulty of the whole climb is just shocking to me. I might have been too optimistic, but I definitely expected it to be easier. Every single pitch is so tricky and hard and yesterday on pitch 16 was the most frustrating day so far on the wall. It revealed the real difficulty of the whole climb and crucial importance of good conditions and skin. Hats off to Tommy and Kevin, who believed that the whole climb was possible before they free climbed. Without having the beta, some of the sections look just impossible. I have the advantage that I know that the climb is possible and that helps me to keep the faith that I might be able to do it as well. I am humbled and impressed by what Tommy and Kevin did!"

Magnus Högström, one of the most dedicated Swedish climbers of the last 15 years with an 8c+ FA and #12 place in one World Cup, guided Alex Megos around Göteborg last weekend. - We started with the Trainspotting project and I could immediately see that he had bad skin and Alex told me it was his eleven day on. After a dozen tries he failed on the last move and the fingers were even worse. No rest, he just kept going. Once back in the gym he started training... The next day I did show him an 8B which he did and then he went back to the gym for some training again. On Sunday he called me asked if I could spot him on Trainspotting again and he showed up with three taped fingers and sent it on his first try. Later he flashed all the four boulders from the Swedish Championship, in his sneakers. Climbing with Alex has really been a eye-opener and a motivator for me. On the other hand, if I would have pushed myself that hard, I would probably gotten injured and Alex says he has never been injured. He is so easy going but on the other side totally obsessed in a very nice way.

Jernej Kruder has done the first repeat of Chris Sharma's Es Pontas in Mallorca. We have been promised the full story tomorrow once he wakes up after the big celebration party. Already three weeks ago he started to report about his Es Pontas challenge on Instagram and during the process he also onsighted The Weather Man 8a+ and a couple of 8a DWS. In 2014, the Slovenian was #2 in the Bouldering World Championship and together with 8C respectively 9a+ and also some impressing MPs, he was one of the best multi discipline guys out there already before his DWS success. Chris never graded it but agreed that it might be a 9b. (c) Kerstin Helbach

Alex Megos contacted 8a in order to say that he has just climbed a totally manufactured 9a+ in Frankenjura, and raising some follow-up questions. Is chipping still an issue or is it widely accepted now? Is it ok to chip? Did I miss something?" The chipping era occurred some 20 years ago and 8a has been fighting hard for it to stop for 15 years. The greatest spokesman for this has been also Adam Ondra. One chipping dilemma is of course that it takes some guts to officially discredit routes like Ondra and Megos do as it is also criticism of the FA. One possibility to stop chipping could actually be that sponsored athletes sign a "No-Chipping" contract saying that they loose all their benefits, like a suspended anabola athlete, if it turns out that they have manufactured routes. Such contract could also include a paragraph saying that once they report that they have done a manufactured route, they are recommended to include this fact. Chipping info would also be valuable for the media as we would have less interest in reporting it, meaning also that the athlete would have less interest to redpoint a manufactured route. From the 8a perspective, we could also stop giving points for redpoints of chipped routes.

Adam Ondra is midway up on the Dawn Wall working on pitches 14 - 16 graded: 9a, 9a and 8c. After that it eases off to 8b+ and more easier grades, topping out with pitch 32. In total there are 16 pitches graded 8a+ and harder. (c) Ondra Instagram, Pavel Blazek