Megos opens a 20 year old 8B+ project in Göteborg

Alex Megos has opened the first 8B+ in Sweden, Trainspotting in Göteborg, which he says is definitely one of his greatest Boulder FAs ever. The high ball has been a project for 20 years and Alex rappelled down first to check out the scary top-out. "The boulder has a concave frontside so it gets steeper and steeper the higher you climb. Except from the first 2 moves all the moves are hard and balancy. The problem is that the holds are all turned in the wrong direction and there are no footholds in the right positions. So if you could turn one or two holds 90° it would probably not be harder then 8A. The way it is you have to do the moves as slow as possible to get the holds right but the problem is as soon as you let go with one hand you start to fall out. The wall has a few crack systems through it so all the holds are crimps on the edge of the cracks. Some of them are slightly incut but most of them are slopy. The last move is a big throw from a decent sloppy crimp to the a big jug up and left with really poor feet and you are high off the ground as well. " Göteborg is said to be the closest connected to a big climbing area city in the world. Trainspotting is just in the middle of all 1 000+ climbs up to five pitches, which you reach from the city center within 12 minutes including 3 minutes walk from the train station. (c) Daniela Ebler