NEWS

24 November 2016

Kranj WC this weekend

The last Lead World Cup takes place in Kranj this weekend and here you can find the starting list. Live streaming starts at 20:00 on Saturday and the final begins at 16:30 on Sunday. 1. Domen Skofic 392 - Janja Garnbret 465 2. Romain Desgranges 337 - Anak Verhoeven 395 3. Jakob Schubert 337 - Jain Kim 350 4. Stefano Ghisolfi 301 - Magdalena Rรถck 308 5. Gauthier Supper 255 - Mina Markovic 251 The overall ranking above is based on five out of six events. If Anak wins the last event, she will get 495 points but Janja has 516 points counting all six so she has already secured the overall title. If either Romain Desgranges or Jakob Schubert wins in Kranj, Domen will have to be #6 in front of his home crowd to secure the title.

Four 8A's by Alex Puccio
24 November 2016

Four 8A's by Alex Puccio

Alex Puccio has had a busy week taking down four 8A's including Lethal Design 8A (+) in Red Rocks."6-8 tries in total. Had to try the top out first because I was a bit scared." The runner-up in Bouldering World Championship 2014 has also flashed Americana Exotica 7C+. (c) James Lucas

Sachi Amma'nฤฑn ufku geniลŸliyor
Sachi Amma 2014 Dรผnya Kupasฤฑ'nฤฑ kazandฤฑktan sonra yarฤฑลŸmayฤฑ bฤฑraktฤฑ. Sonraki yฤฑl 10 tane 9a veya daha zor rota รงฤฑkma hedefine ulaลŸtฤฑ. 2016'da tekrar bir deฤŸiลŸikliฤŸe gitti ve Flatanger'daki 9a+ รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑndan sonra zor rota รงฤฑkmayฤฑ bฤฑraktฤฑ. (c) Sam Biรฉ "Kendimi diฤŸer tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸรงฤฑlarla kฤฑyaslamada beni daha iyi bir insan kฤฑlacak bir deฤŸer gรถremiyorum. YarฤฑลŸmayฤฑ ve zor รงฤฑkฤฑลŸlarฤฑ bฤฑrakmamฤฑn sebebi bu. Neden diฤŸerlerinden daha iyi olmaya ihtiyacฤฑm var? Kendi benliฤŸimin รงok az bir kฤฑsmฤฑnฤฑn farkฤฑnda olduฤŸuma ve bu zafฤฑmฤฑ รถrtmek iรงin yarฤฑลŸma kazanmak ve zor rotalar รงฤฑkmak gibi inanฤฑlmaz ลŸeyler yapma peลŸinden koลŸtuฤŸuma inanฤฑyorum. Son tahlilde ise anladฤฑm ki baลŸkalarฤฑndan daha iyi olmak asla tatmin edici olmayacak รงรผnkรผ hayati sorunlar รถrtรผlmรผลŸ olarak var olmaya devam edecek. Beni yanlฤฑลŸ anlamayฤฑn bu dediฤŸim herkes iรงin geรงerli deฤŸil. YarฤฑลŸmak da kendiniz hakkฤฑnda bir ลŸeyler รถฤŸrenmenize sebep olabilir ki bir รงok arkadaลŸฤฑm kazanmak iรงin yarฤฑลŸmฤฑyor. Ancak ลŸundan eminim ki kendini baลŸkalarฤฑyla kฤฑyaslamak mutluluk getirmez. Peki ลŸimdiki hedefin nedir? (10 saniye sessizlik) Bilmiyorum... Kendi yaลŸamฤฑmฤฑn รงฤฑkmazฤฑ iรงerisindeyim. Bugรผn tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ imgesi, รถzellikle basฤฑnฤฑn ilgisi daha gรผรงlรผ, daha รงฤฑlgฤฑn olanla birlikte. Bu รงok erkeksi ve benim fikrimce insanฤฑn bir de gรผzelliฤŸi arayan kadฤฑnsฤฑ yanฤฑ var. Bence tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸฤฑn bu yรถnde geliลŸmesine ihtiyaรง var. Bu dรผลŸรผnceler kendimi daha zor รงฤฑkฤฑลŸlar iรงin zorlamayฤฑ bฤฑraktฤฑktan sonra bana geldi ve hala geliลŸime ihtiyaรง duyuyor. Bir baลŸka konu da รถzellikle Japonya'da tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸรงฤฑlarฤฑn tutkularฤฑnฤฑ ve ruhunu yansฤฑtacak mekanlarฤฑn eksikliฤŸi. Bizde รงok fazla festival ya da film gรถsterimi yok. Umarฤฑm รงok gรผรงlรผ olmasalar da tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸฤฑ seven insanlar ayaฤŸa kalkar ve tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸฤฑn potansiyeline ve geliลŸmesine katkฤฑda bulunurlar. Tokyo Olimpiyatlarฤฑ yeni bir motivasyon olmayacak mฤฑ? Bu konuda รงok dรผลŸรผndรผm ancak hayฤฑr. Gerรงekten ne yapmak istediฤŸimle ilgiliyim ve bu Olimpiyat deฤŸil. Sonraki plan ne o zaman? Ben de kendime hunu sorup duruyorum, "Ne yapacaฤŸฤฑm?", yarฤฑลŸฤฑrken...... 3 haftalฤฑฤŸฤฑna ฤฐspanya'ya gidiyorum Aralฤฑk'ta. Fakat ne tฤฑrmanacaฤŸฤฑmฤฑ bilmiyorum. Yine de inanฤฑyorum ki kendim olmaya devam edersem hayat da benim gittiฤŸim yere gelecek.

Sachi Amma is known for his feather-like climbing style even if he screams like Ondra and Sharma every now and then. "They were my idols so I just copied what they did but nowadays I think it is good enough to breathe deep." When it comes to relaxing while doing hard moves he says it is about just using the muscles needed and not overloading the whole body with power. "If you have a hard undercling it is important to isolate this as much as possible and relax the other muscles to not build up to much tension. I think yoga has helped me climbing more relaxed and thius is something I recommend."

Five days ago, it was mentioned on 8a that IFSC had given the Combined bronze in male Youth A to the wrong person. Filip Schenk was originally #4 but now IFSC said that it is he who should have been standing on the podium getting the bronze in China. IFSC had actually made several mistakes in the calculation and today they apologize for the mistakes occurred. "Complete results can be found on the dedicated event page, and pictures, replays and highlights will be made available as soon as possible. The IFSC apologize for the late delivery of the combined rankings and for the mistakes occurred. Some registered competitors did not actually participated and this generated the inaccurate calculations." It is noteworthy that still no official results have been presented in the Combined discipline that will be Olympic 2020 even if you click on the link saying Complete Results which can be found on the event dedicated page. The Combined results have instead been presented here.

Adam Ondra tops out the Dawn Wall
Pavel Blazek reports that Adam Ondra has topped out the Dawn Wall, which, with 32 pitches including two 9a's, is the world's hardest big wall established by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson. To get some perspective of what the best multi discipline climber in the world has achieved, we have put up a list: 1. Two months ago Adam was the Lead World Champion and the runner-up in Bouldering. 2. This was his first real trad climbing experience. 3. The "old-school" vertical climbing is not his normal best style. 3. His partner Pavel Blazek had never tried a multi-pitch before. 4. Adam did it in just eight days while the FA took 19 days. 5. Adam did lead all pitches meanwhile each of the FAs did almost half on top rope. 6. They carried all the supply themselves. It should also be noted that it took Caldwell and Jorgeson six years to establish the Dawn Wall and that this can be considered, by fair, the most impressive multi-pitch FA in the world. Adam has expressed his admiration for their achievement on his new Instagram several times, and also said that some grades were very hard. Legendary photographer Heinz Zak and his assistant Christian Wild are also in the picture. Adam Ondra's first interview from 2004 when he was 11-years-old and already one of the best onsight climbers in the world.

Adam Ondra Dawn Wall tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸฤฑnฤฑ tamamladฤฑ
Pavel Blazek in duyurduฤŸuna gรถre Adam Ondra Dawn Wall รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑnฤฑ tamamlandฤฑ. Tommy Caldwell ve Kevin Jorgeson tarafฤฑndan geliลŸtirilen ve ilk รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑ yapฤฑlan bu rota iki 9a iรงeren 32 ip boyundan oluลŸuyor. Bu รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑ daha da ilginรง kฤฑlan bazฤฑ unsurlar ลŸรถyle: 1. ฤฐki ay รถnce Adam Lider Dรผnya ลžampiyonasฤฑ'nฤฑ kazandฤฑ ve Kฤฑsakaya'da birinciliฤŸi zorladฤฑ. 2. Bu onun ilk gerรงek anlamda geleneksel tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ tecrรผbesiydi. 3. Eski tarz dรผz duvar tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸฤฑ onun en iyi olduฤŸu alan deฤŸil. 3. Partneri Pavel Blazek daha รถnce รงok ip boylu tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ yapmamฤฑลŸtฤฑ. 4. Adam รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑ 8 gรผnde bitirdi, i.รง. ise 19 gรผn sรผrmรผลŸtรผ. 5. Adam tรผm ip boylarฤฑnฤฑ lider tฤฑrmandฤฑ, i.รง. da neredeyse yarฤฑsฤฑ tepeden emniyetli รงฤฑkฤฑlmฤฑลŸtฤฑ. 6. Bรผtรผn malzemeleri ve yiyecekleri kendileri taลŸฤฑdฤฑlar. ลžu da not edilmeli ki Caldwell ve Jorgeson 6 yฤฑl bu rotaya emek vermiลŸler ve dรผnyanฤฑn en etkileyici i.รง. ฤฑnฤฑ yapmฤฑลŸlardฤฑ. Adam baลŸarฤฑlarฤฑna duyduฤŸu hayranlฤฑฤŸฤฑ burada aรงฤฑklฤฑyor. Instagram Efsanevi fotoฤŸrafรงฤฑ Heinz Zak ve yardฤฑmcฤฑsฤฑ Christian Wild da resimde yerlerini alฤฑyorlar.