NEWS

Angy Eiter - The combined format does not make sense
Angela Eiter, the best female lead competition climber in the history who has won four world championships, is equally negative towards the suggested Olympic format as Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma. Pic from Paris 2012, (c) Red Bull/S. Gruden "Speaking for myself, I think this Olympic format develops a new direction of competition climbing, where the original philosophy of climbing moves into the background. Nevertheless, it is quite likely that the younger generation adapts better to the new format and probably benefit from training all disciplines and the social settings. Anyway a difficult topic!" So would you have gone for it during your career? No, I wouldn't have gone for it. For me this format doesn't make sense. IFSC has forwarded some suggestions for the combined format which have been questioned by almost all federations. Some of them have gone together informally to suggest a new combined format. The IFSC decision will be made next spring. In fact, there are more top athletes that are equally negative but they have said they want to wait with their comments until the competition season is over.

Stay auto-updated on Friends' and Crags ascents
Just like on Facebook, you can select from which Friends and Crags you will get notifications when an ascent has been added. Just go to your "Friends'" scorecard, click the button at the top and you will automatically see which climbs have been recorded lately. You can do the same thing for Crags and there you can also select which grades you want to follow. The picture shows where to click on "Add to My Friends" in Adam Ondra's scorecard to always stay updated on his latest ascents. Just his scorecard has been visited almost 1 million times. Adam's new Instagram has already 51 000 followers.

1 018 pull ups in 1 hour by Jan Kares
jan kares, #17 in 1 Lead WC 1998, is a pull-up and bolting fanatic. Yesterday, he set two new world records by doing 555 pull-ups in 30 minutes first and then 1 018 during 1 hour. His next plan is to go to Sardinia and continue his bolting mission with 600 bolts. Since 2008, the 43-year-old has spent some 150 days bolting, paying for everything by himself. His dream is that this area, close to Cala Gonone, will be one of the best and most famous climbing areas in Europe.

Ako nรกjsลฅ najlepลกiu zimnรบ lezeckรบ destinรกciu
Na obrรกzku je znรกzornenรฉ, v ktorรฝch mesiacoch pribudlo do 8a databรกzy najviac prelezov z grรฉckej oblasti Leonidio. Z ostatnรฝch eurรณpskych a blรญzkych oblastรญ majรบ podobnรบ koncentrรกciu prelezov len tureckรฉ Geyikbayiri a ลกpanielske El Chorro. ฤŽalลกie obฤพรบbenรฉ destinรกcie sรบ naprรญklad San Vito lo Capo na Sicรญlii, Osp/Miลกja Peฤ v Slovinsku, Arico na Tenerife, Fenda blรญzko Lisabonu v Portugalsku, Mallorca a oblasti v blรญzko Malagy, Valencie a Barcelony v ล panielsku.

8a.nu vo viacerรฝch jazykoch - ฤalลกรญ editori vรญtanรญ!
V sรบฤasnosti sรบ celosvetovรฉ novinky na 8a.nu prekladanรฉ do ลกpanielฤiny, francรบzลกtiny, ลกvรฉdฤiny a poฤพลกtiny. Majรบ to na starosti lokรกlny editori, ktorรญ mรดลพe takisto pridรกvaลฅ novinky zo svojich krajรญn. Hฤพadรกme ale viacerรฝch prekladateฤพov a lokรกlnych editorov - staฤรญ poslaลฅ email na [email protected]. Krajiny s najvรคฤลกรญm poฤtom nรกvลกtevnรญkov sรบ USA, Nemecko, ล panielsko, Taliansko, Rakรบsko, Francรบzsko, ล vajฤiarsko a ล vรฉdsko. V kaลพdej z tรฝchto krajรญn sa denne prihlรกsi 800 aลพ 3000 uลพรญvateฤพov.

Angy Eiter - Kombinovanรฝ formรกt nedรกva zmysel
Angela Eiter, najlepลกia sรบลฅaลพnรก lezkyลˆa na obtiaลพnosลฅ v histรณrii, ktorรก vyhrala ลกtyri Majstrovstvรก sveta, mรก takรฝ istรฝ negatรญvny postoj k navrhovanรฉho olympijskรฉmu formรกtu ako naprรญklad Adam Ondra alebo Chris Sharma. Foto z Parรญลพa 2012. (c) Red Bull/S. Gruden "Hovoriac za seba, myslรญm si, ลพe tento olympijskรฝ formรกt smeruje sรบลฅaลพnรฉ lezenie inรฝm smerom, kde sa pรดvodnรก filozofia lezenia dostรกva do รบzadia. Napriek tomu je moลพnรฉ, ลพe mladลกia generรกcia sa mu prispรดsobรญ lepลกie a bude pravdepodobne ลฅaลพiลฅ z trรฉningu vลกetkรฝch disciplรญn a novรฝch sociรกlnych pomerov na lezeckej scรฉne. No, kaลพdopรกdne je to ลฅaลพkรก tรฉma!" Zรบฤastnila by si sa takรฝchto pretekov, keby sa konali poฤas tvojej sรบลฅaลพnej kariรฉry? "Nie, podฤพa mลˆa tento novรฝ formรกt absolรบtne nedรกva zmysel." IFSC predostrela niekoฤพko nรกvrhov, ako by mohol kombinovanรฝ formรกt vyzeraลฅ, ktorรฉ sa vลกak stretli s kritikou skoro od vลกetkรฝch lezeckรฝch federรกciรญ. Niektorรฉ z nich sa neformรกlne spojili, aby zostavili vlastnรฝ formรกt. Koneฤnรฉ rozhodnutie zo strany IFSC by malo prรญsลฅ na jar budรบceho roku. Viacerรญ top lezci takisto vyjadrili nesรบhlas, no povedali, ลพe poฤkajรบ s komentรกrmi do konca sรบลฅaลพnej sezรณny

8a in more languages - more editors are welcome
Currently, the 8a global news are translated into Spanish, French, Swedish and Polish by local contributors that can also publish country specific news. We are looking for more translators and local editors. Just send an email to [email protected]. The biggest country specific pages are USA, Germany, Spain, Italy, Austria, France, Switzerland and Sweden. These countries make between 800 and 3 000 sessions a day.

Jan Kareลก spravil 1018 zhybov za 1 hodinu
jan kares, #17 na Svetovom pohรกri v lezenรญ na obtiaลพnosลฅ v 1998, je maniak do vล•tania a zhybovania. Vฤera prekoval hneฤ dva rekordy, keฤ spravil 555 zhybov za 30 minรบt a 1018 zhybov za jednu hodinu. Jeho ฤalลกรญ plรกn je cesta na Sardรญniu, aby pokraฤoval vo svojej vล•tacej misii so 600 ฤalลกรญmi borhรกkmi. Od roku 2008 strรกvil tento 43 roฤnรฝ lezec vล•tanรญm odhadom 150 dnรญ a vลกetky nรกklady hradil z vlastnรฉho vrecka. Jeho snom je, aby sa tรกto novรก oblasลฅ, nachรกdzajรบca sa blรญzko Cala Gonone, stala jednou z najlepลกรญch a najznรกmejลกรญch lezeckรฝch oblastรญ v Eurรณpe.

8b onsight again by Laura Rogora (15)
Laura Rogora has onsighted her third 8b, Dragon in Gole del melfa. The 15-year-old is actually #11 in the 8a onsight ranking game. (c) Sofia Mariano "Dragon is divided in two halves. The first part is an hard boulder followed by a pretty good rest and a very beautiful and technical groove on small holds. When I did the first boulder I understood that the hardest part was done. I had only to keep calm until the chain. When I exit from the groove and I hold the last good holds I felt so excited!! I train 5 times per week. 3 times in my bouldergym and in the weekend I go outdoor. In 2017 I would like to try some hard routes (I don't know where yet) and naturally continue competing. Naturally I am very happy that climbing got a place in the olympic games. Our sport is fantastic and it is fair that now it is an Olympic sport. I admit that I am not very happy about the format."

29 November 2016

Kranj summary