"Climb like an orangutan and improve your endurance", v slovenskej verzii "Lez ako orangutan a zlepši si tak vytrvalosť", je jedným z najhodnotnejších článkov za rok 2016 čo sa týka odozvy v komentároch, cez emaily, na Facebooku a dodatočných otázok. Dokonca sa na jeho adresu pozitívne vyjadrili aj niektorí tréneri. Zopár lezcov sa takisto vyjadrilo, že zmenu v technike pocítili už po niekoľkých tréningoch a tento štýl sa rýchlo ujal aj v ich okolí. Tu je niekoľko ďalších odpovedí a nápadov. Podstata celého cvičenia štýlom orangutana je, aby bol lezec pri lezení uvoľnenejší, tým pádom používal menšie percento svalových vlákien, čo postupne zlepšuje obeh krvi v tele a tým aj lezeckú vytrvalosť. Veľa lezcov má problém s preťažovaním chytov, čo znamená, že používajú viacej sily ako je potrebné na udržanie chytu. To zároveň spôsobuje, že svaly sa nestihnú dostatočne uvoľniť pri pohybu z chytu do chytu. Pri tréningu tejto techniky postupne len s jednou rukou sa človek automaticky naučí vypustiť a uvoľniť svaly v predlaktí pri nasledujúcom pohybe, keďže ruka bude chvíľku oddychovať pred dochytením ďalšieho chytu. Nezaberie veľa času než si pri tréningu človek uvedomí, že automaticky vypúšťa spodnú ruku hneď po dochytení alebo znižuje kontaktnú silu na minimum. Tým, že sa sústredíš na pustenie a uvoľnenie budeš mať zároveň výhodu mikro-sklepania pri nasledujúcom pohybe, pričom sa stále môže jednať o sériu ťažkých krokov. Zaujímavé je, že keď sa pozrieme na lezcov Svetového pohára, ich štýl je podobný - väčšinou zamknúť na chyte a spraviť pohyb tak kontrolovane, ako sa len dá, aby pri ňom mohli na malú chvíľku sklepať. Tento štýl má výhodu aj v tom, že namiesto polo-dynamického dochytenia chytu, pri ktorom je spotrebované veľké množstvo sily, je dochytenie nasledujúceho chytu plynulé a statické.

Alex Puccio has done her 15th 8B, Tierre De Sienne in Hueco Tanks. The day before she won her sixth comp in a row, Birmingham Alabama, since her spinal fusion five months ago. (c) Kim Puccio "Left Hueco to do a competition this weekend, won the comp, got back late last night and now today I got another gift! felt good to send! getting stronger!!! :)" In February, the runner-up in the World Championsship 2014, plans to do the US Nationals but she is not sure if she will do the World Cup 2016. Here are her thoughts regarding the Olympics. "The Olympics is good for our sport in a whole I believe. It will bring more money and attention to climbing and I think it will help even inspiring professional outdoor climbers as well. I guess we will see! I personally will probably try out, whatever that is, to be be selected. Even tho I don't really agree or like the purposed format for the Olympics it would be really cool to say you competed in it. Again, we will see!

UIAA vydalo celý sumár udalostí prvého Svetového pohára v ľadovom lezení 2016, ktorý sa konal v americkom Durangu. (c) Blake Ward/UIAA Výsledky: 1. Alexey Dengin (RUS) - Woonseon Shin (KOR) 2. Nikolai Kuzovlev (RUS) - Angelika Rainer (ITA) 3. Maxim Tomilov (RUS) - Eimir McSwiggan (IRE)

Stefano Ghisolfi has done the FA of Ultimatum in Arco, which is the connection of three already hard routes in Massone. Stefano, with three 9a+'s done during the last year, is second in the 8a.nu route ranking game. "Last connection in Massone, connects The first boulder of Underground, Reini's Vibes, downclimb some moves of Pietra Murata, the crack boulder of L'ultima Pietra with a crazy finger lock, and the last tiny crimps of Stonehenge. More than 100 moves. Not a hard 9a+ due to good rests between the hard sections".

Laura Rogora has onsighted her fourth 8b, Bella Lu in Collepardo. On the same day she also made the FA of Super crack 8c. The 15-year-old is #1 in the 8a female ranking game and when it comes to onsights, she is #7 among the guys. What goes through your mind while onsighting? I do not know. When I feel tired I try to climb speedly without thinking about what I am doing because I only want to reach the next hold. In the last two years, she has won the Italian Championship in both Bouldering and Lead categories and the amazing thing is that she trains in a not so big bouldering gym.

Andrej Capko is our new editor for Slovakia meaning that we now have country specific editors and translators for six countries, which is a record high: Spain, Italy, France, Sweden, Poland and Slovakia. Most visitors come from USA and Germany and if you would like to be able to report local news or translate to any language just send an email to [email protected] and we will upgrade your account.

karoline sinnhuber has done the FA of Schluck du Bruder sit 8A+ in Felbertal. In total she has now done 50 Boulders graded 8A and harder. "Props to Norbert Grugger for spotting this line during our last session. Also a big shoutout to my dad (8a note: also an 8A boulderer) who drove to the bloc 2 days ago for brushing the snow away <3. Perfect conditions today, first go after the warmup." There is just a handful female who have done an 8A+ FA. The 21-year-old Austrian is also a successful competition climber and in the 8A ranking game, she is #3.

Andrej Capko je náš nový editor pre slovenskú verziu 8a.nu (čaute!). Zatiaľ teda máme editorov a prekladateľov zo šiestich krajín: Španielsko, Taliansko, Francúzsko, Švédsko, Poľsko a Slovensko. To je v doterajšej histórii 8a.nu najviac! Najväčší počet návštevníkov ja však z USA a Nemecka. Ak by si mal záujem reportovať o lokálnych novinkách a prekladať doterajšie do svojho jazyka, stačí poslať mail na [email protected] a môžeme ti upgradenúť účet.

James Webb has done Nalle Hukkataival's Kintsugi, an 8C boulder in Red Rocks, Nevada. As he comments on his Instagram account: "Feels so damn good to do this Boulder. Hands down one of the best lines you will see anywhere". James is known for being the best flash boulder in the world with 13 8B's and he is also #1 in the 8a boulder ranking game.

Sebastien BOUIN recently did the first repeat of Salida del Sol in Cantobre, suggesting a personal downgrade to 8c+. He stated that it was considerably easier if you dropped one shoe before the final crux. (c) Etienne Tafary "Interesting in this route is the way to do the crux. I had a problem in the last move of the hard section as I couldn't put my left foot in a hole and go to the next good hold. So with a friend we tried it without the shoe because the toe could enter in the hole. And in fact, the move was easier... Hopefully, after the crux, we didn't need the left foot. The problem was to quit the shoe before the crux! So we decided to drop the left shoe on the last rest before the crux, and to do first moves of the crux without the left shoe. Like that, I think the route is around 8c+. It's a funny beta, we have to think more often on our foot possibility without climbing shoes. Sometime it could be a real help."