16 December 2016

Seb Bouin thinks bare feet could make routes easier

Sebastien BOUIN recently did the first repeat of Salida del Sol in Cantobre, suggesting a personal downgrade to 8c+. He stated that it was considerably easier if you dropped one shoe before the final crux. (c) Etienne Tafary "Interesting in this route is the way to do the crux. I had a problem in the last move of the hard section as I couldn't put my left foot in a hole and go to the next good hold. So with a friend we tried it without the shoe because the toe could enter in the hole. And in fact, the move was easier... Hopefully, after the crux, we didn't need the left foot. The problem was to quit the shoe before the crux! So we decided to drop the left shoe on the last rest before the crux, and to do first moves of the crux without the left shoe. Like that, I think the route is around 8c+. It's a funny beta, we have to think more often on our foot possibility without climbing shoes. Sometime it could be a real help."
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