NEWS

Nรกvrh zoznamu najlepลกรญch lezcov roku 2016. Komentรกre a nรกzory sรบ ลพiadanรฉ a vรญtanรฉ! Tak ako predchรกdzajรบce roky, aj tento rok je zoznam zaloลพenรฝ na vรฝkonoch v ลกportovom lezenรญ, priฤom vรคฤลกรญ kredit dostali tรญ, ktorรญ robili viac prvovรฝstupov (FA) a boli รบspeลกnรญ vo viacerรฝch disciplรญnach. 1. Adam Ondra CZE 2. Janja Garnbret SLO 3. Ashima Shiraishi USA 4. Domen Skofic SLO 5. Alex Megos GER 6. Anak Verhoeven BEL 7. Nalle Hukkataival 8. Jain Kim 9. Jakob Schubert 10. Jernej Kruder, Jongwon Chon, Tomoa Narasaki, Sean McColl, Stefano Ghisolfi, Alex Puccio, Megan Mascarenas, Melissa Le Neve, James Webb, Alexey Rubtsov, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Laura Rogara, Jonathan Siegrist, Ryuichi Murai, Paul Robinson, Shauna Coxsey, Seb Bouin, Chris Sharma, Karoline Sinnhuber, Isabelle Faus, Romain Desgranges, Dani Andrada, Margo Hayes, Edu Marin, Sebastian Halenke, Jessica Pilz, Kokoro Fujii, Petra Klingler, Piotr Schab, Jan Hojer, David Firnenburg, Christof Rauch, Gabri Moroni, Katharina Saurwein, Martin Stranik, Miho Nonaka, Akiyo Noguchi, Gauthier Supper, Daniel Fuertes, Mathieu Bouyoud, Toshi Takeuchi, Michaela Kiersch, Carlo Traversi, Angela Eiter, Nina Caprez

Climb like an orangutan and improve your endurance
If you use 50% of your max power on each arm, your blood circulation is almost non-existing and you will quickly get a burning pump. If, instead, you climb with a technique where you try to take as much load on one hand and let the other rest, you can go on for a long time. The best way to train this technique is simply just to let go with the lower hand as soon as you have reached the next hold. Start practicing directly during your warm up on juggy routes. In practice, it means that you will move your feet several times in between you move your arm movements. Do not dyno. After a couple of hours you will notice a change while climbing or bouldering also on harder moves. The biggest gain of this technique is, nevertheless, found on relatively easy terrain. Hopefully this orangutan climbing style will improve your ability to rest and give you better endurance. This focus on one arm climbing will also make your shoulder and biceps muscles stronger which is especially good for overhangs.

Lez ako orangutan a zlepลกi si tak vytrvalosลฅ
Ak prerozdelรญลก 50% svojej maximรกlne sily na kaลพdรบ ruku, potom krvnรฝ obeh v kaลพdej z nich bude skoro nulovรฝ a tebe rรฝchlo nabehnรบ bandasky. Ak sa vลกak zameriaลก na techniku, pri ktorej zaลฅaลพรญลก jednu ruku maximรกlne a nechรกลก tรบ druhรบ oddychovaลฅ, mรดลพeลก vydrลพaลฅ dlhลกie. Dobrรฝ spรดsob, ako tรบto techniku natrรฉnovaลฅ, je sรบstrediลฅ sa na pustenie spodnej ruky hneฤ ako dosiahneลก nasledujรบci chyt. Zaฤaลฅ treba uลพ pri rozohriatรญ na jednoduchรฝch cestรกch po madlรกch. V praxi to znamenรก, ลพe treba upraviลฅ pozรญciu nรดh pred tรฝm, ako spravรญลก ฤalลกรญ pohyb rukou. Neskรกฤ, riskujeลก zranenie! Uลพ po niekoฤพkรฝch hodinรกch mรดลพe byลฅ zmena badateฤพnรก, ฤi uลพ v cestรกch alebo na bouldroch, dokonca aj v ลฅaลพkรฝch krokoch. Najviac je vลกak tรกto technika nรกpomocnรก v relatรญvne ฤพahลกom terรฉne. Zรกroveลˆ vลกak mรดลพe pomรดcลฅ vybudovaลฅ silnejลกie bicepsy a ramenรก, ฤo je vรฝhoda hlavne v previsoch. Dรบfame, ลพe Ti tรกto technika pomรดลพe lepลกie oddychovaลฅ a zlepลกรญ vytrvalosลฅ!

9a again by Patxi Usobiaga
As he writes on his Instagram, Patxi Usobiaga has sent Seta Total 9a in Cuenca. In total Patxi has sent some 20 routes graded 9a or harder and including his extraordinary competition results, he is one of the best climbers ever. Patxi had to stop climbing for several years due to a serious injury in his neck. Now he's back with full strength and shares a nice video of the send.

8c flash by Jain Kim
9 December 2016

8c flash by Jain Kim

Jain Kim reports on Instagram that she has flashed China Climb 8c in Yangshuo. "I had watched just one time and after that I did climb to solve the moves but I really didn't expect that I make topped off! It felt really really psyched even I can't remember how I climb." During the last six years, Jain has been one of the best competition climbers in the world, having won the World Cup three times, and the World Championship 2014.

Pavel Blazek - Dawn Wall belayer interview
Black Diamond has made an interview with Adam Ondra's belayer and photographer, Pavel Blazek, who had never tried a multi-pitch before the Dawn Wall. "Any scary moments on the wall? Oh yeah. One was maybe pitch 10, and he started climbing, and the protection is not awesome. Actually itโ€™s pretty sketchy. And heโ€™s maybe 10 or 15 meters above me and five or six meters runout, and suddenly three copperheads pop out. Ping, ping, ping! I was thinking, if he falls heโ€™s going to be flying way below me. And it was dark. I didnโ€™t even tell him though, and he got through it."

8A+ by Alex Puccio again
Alex Puccio has done her 54th 8A+, Right Martini in Hueco Tanks. "The BIG move was hard to stick from the start. Long Boulder! Psyched to be getting fitter and stronger! :) I LOVE BIG moves!" (c) John Bishop In 2014, Alex was runner-up in the world championship but both in June 2015 and 2016, she badly injured herself in World Cups and had to undergo knee and spinal surgeries. In a Climbing interview she said, โ€œEveryone thinks I heal abnormally fast, but the reality is I donโ€™t give up during an injury," she said. "Some people get injured and sit around waiting to heal. I find ways to work around my injury so I can stay fit and come back sooner than expected.โ€œ

Parรกdne bouldrovรฉ moลพnosti v Alcaรฑize
Podฤพa ฤlรกnku vydanรฉho jednรฝm z najvรคฤลกรญch ลกpanielskych newsletterov sa bouldrovรก oblasลฅ Alcaรฑiz kaลพdรฝm mesiacom. S viac ako tisรญckou uลพ existujรบcich lรญniรญ a vฤaka rรฝchlemu tvoreniu novรฝch problรฉmov mรก Alcaรฑiz potenciรกl byลฅ v budรบcnosti veฤพmi kvalitnou bouldrovou oblasลฅou. Svetoznรกmi lezci ako Chris Sharma a Paul Robinson navลกtรญvili Alcaรฑiz (500+ prelezov v 8a databรกze) minulรฝ rok a boli prekvapenรญ z kvality a mnoลพstva bouldrov. Peknรฉ video dostupnรฉ video tu. Oblasลฅ sa nachรกdza 2h severo-vรฝchodne od Albarracรญnu a 3h na juh od Barcelony. Foto kredit Chris Sharma

8C+/9A trav for Iker Pou (39)
Iker Pou, one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world, who did Action Direct 9a in 2000 and a 9a+ FA last year, reports on Instagram. "THE ARROITA TRAVERSE 8C+/9A TRAV. (Hard 9a+ route). Very happy for send this old project that always had in mind since more than 15 years. First ascent by @dani_andrada_climb. Thanks @arroitajauregi for the futuristic visiรณn!!Never stop dreaming! Foto @blomuandonisiempreamuerte."

Great bouldering possibilities in Alcaรฑiz
As published by one of the most important newsletters in Spain, the bouldering area of Alcaรฑiz keeps increasing month after month. With more than a thousand lines existing nowadays and its fast development, it will probably become one of the best spots in the future. Some of the best boulderers such as Chris Sharma and Paul Robinson visited Alcaรฑiz (500+ ascents in 8a data base) last year and got impressed with the quality and quantity of the problems. You can see a nice video here. Alcaรฑiz is 2 h north east of Albarracรญn and 3 h south west of Barcelona. Image copyright Chris Sharma