4 January 2017

Mind control oficiรกlne potvrdenรก ako 8c

Mind control v Oliane bola navล•tanรก, prelezenรก a ohodnotenรก ako 8c+ Chrisom Sharmom a krรกtko nato sa z tejto kvalitnej cesty stalo jedno z najviac opakovanรฝch 8c+ na svete. Mรก aj niekoฤพko ลพenskรฝch prelezov a OS prelez od Adama Ondru, ktorรฝ ako prvรฝ cestu nazval "ฤพahkou v obtiaลพnosti". Gabri Moroni ju po preleze komentoval slovami: "Kaลพdy vie, ลพe je to len 8c... no nikto ju nezhodรญ :P Rok nato ju Silvio Reffo flashol a zapรญsal ako 8c. "Flashnรบลฅ 8c+ stรกle zostรกva pre mลˆa iba snom... Pravdou je, ลพe je to 8c." V tom istom ฤase sme Mind control zaฤali na 8a.nu pรญsaลฅ ako 8c (+), na ฤo sme dostรกvali sลฅaลพnosti, no zรกroveลˆ sa ozvali viacerรญ, ktorรญ s tรฝmto hodnotenรญm sรบhlasili, ale nechceli si cestu zapรญsaลฅ ako 8c, aby tak nesklamali svojich kamarรกtov ฤi nespochybลˆovali tรฝch z lezeckej ลกpiฤky, ktorรญ Mind control vyliezli. Z poslednรฝch siedmich prelezov zapรญsanรฝch do dennรญฤkov na 8a si cestu kaลพdรฝ zapรญsal ako 8c a tak je naฤase, aby sa vypustilo hodnotenie 8c (+) a Mind control bola povaลพovanรก za 8c. Niektorรฉ mรฉdia v poslednรฝch rokoch na titulkoch cestu stรกle oznaฤovali ako 8c+. Treba ale povedaลฅ, ลพe keฤ Chris Sharma cestu vytvoril, mohla byลฅ 8c+, keฤลพe sa niektorรฉ chyty mohli ulomiลฅ. Pred cca pรคtnรกstimi rokmi 8a.nu zaฤalo otvorene spochybลˆovaลฅ hodnotenie niektorรฝch ลฅaลพkรฝch bouldrov hlavne v Ticine, aby sme zaistili ฤo najpresnejลกie reportovanie obtiaลพnostรญ a prelezov. Neskรดr sa spomรญnanรฉ hodnotenia potvrdili, a to nielen v Ticine, ale aj v ฤalลกรญch oblastiach. Jednoduchรฝ spรดsob ako zistiลฅ, ฤi je cesta "jednoduchรก v obtiaลพnosti" je pozrieลฅ si akรฉ mรก percento dosiahnutia osobnรฉho maxima pre danรบ oblasลฅ, aka ฤŒasovรฉ porovnanie obtiaลพnosti (obrรกzok). Ak by bolo Mind control 8c+, pre vรคฤลกinu lezcov by prelezenie cesty znamenalo dosiahnutie osobnรฉho maxima na zรกklade predoลกlรฝch prelezov alebo ฤasu, ktorรฝ do cesty museli investovaลฅ. ฤŒlรกnok o ฤasovom porovnรกvanรญ obtiaลพnostรญ z roku 2002. Autor: Jens Larssen
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