Jakob Schubert v posledných dvoch týždňoch preliezol v španielskej Oliane dve cesty klasifikácie 9a+ a nedávno pridal na svoje konto aj Seleccio Anal v Santa Linyi, ktorú si zapísal ako 9a (+). O preleze informoval na svojom facebooku. "Parádna rozlúčka s ďalším veľmi dobrým výjazdom do Katalánska." (c) Elias Holzknecht Aké sú tvoje plány na rok 2017 a čo hovoríš na Olympiádu? "Nikdy si nie som svojimi plánmi na 100% istý, keďže mám rád spontánne rozhodnutia, ale zatiaľ sa pre tento rok plánujem vrátiť k Svetovému poháru v boulderingu. Je na to viacero dôvodov, aj si momentálne bouldrovanie omnoho viac užívam, no takisto je pre mňa výzvou vrátiť sa späť, keďže sa súťažná scéna za posledné roky dosť zmenila a mal som celkom problém adaptovať sa na nové pomery. Za druhé chcem navštíviť viaceré oblasti, kde sú najlepšie podmienky v lete a na jeseň a preto pravdepodobne po prvý raz vynechám väčšinu kôl Svetového pohára na obtiažnosť. Hovorím napríklad o Rocklands, no rozmýšľal som o viacerých, tak uvidíme. Mám v pláne zúčastniť sa Olympijských hier v 2020, no stále čakám na to, akým spôsobom bude robená kvalifikácia a ako bude vyzerať formát samotných pretekov. Samozrejme nie som veľmi nadšený z toho začať trénovať rýchlosť, no je to obeta, ktorú podstúpim."

Charles Albert posztolta a Facebookon a napokban, hogy nyitott egy ülőstartot a Délire onirique 8C-re Fontainebleauban (természetesen mezítláb), körülbelül 10-15 szesön után. A kb. 183cm magas Charles úgy kommentálta a dologot:Könnyebb a magas embereknek, most mehetek keresni valami új nehéz projót..." Decemberben, "Maugli" megnyitotta a La révolutionnaire 8C-t és korábban pedig megnyitotta a direktverzióját a Le Pied à Coulisse 8C-nek, melyhez azt a kommentet fűzte: Valószínűleg lehetetlen mászócipővel megmászni... EpicTV video presentation

Charles Albert reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of SDS to Délire onirique 8C in Fontainebleau after about 10-15 sessions. "Easy 8c for tall dudes. Gotta find new hard projects now." Charles is around 183 cm tall. In December, "Mowgli" did the FA of La révolutionnaire 8C and earlier he did the direct version of Le Pied à Coulisse 8C, which is considered impossible if you use shoes. EpicTV video presentation

Charles Albert pridal na svoj facebook správu o prvom preleze priameho sit startu (SDS) k Délire onirique 8C v Fontainebleau, čo mu zabralo cca 10-15 návštev. "Ľahké 8C pre vysokých chalanov. Teraz treba nájsť ďalšie ťažké projekty." Charles má 183 cm. Ešte v decembri urobil "Mowgli" prvý prelez La révolutionnaire 8C a ešte predtým ako jediný preliezol napriamo boulder Le Pied à Coulisse 8C, pričom o tejto verzii povedal, že si myslí, že sa s lezečkami nedá preliezť. EpicTV video prezentácia Charlesa

Stefano Ghisolfi, #4 in the Lead WC 2016 including a victory in one event, has done Definicion de resistencia democrata in Terradetts, which he gives a personal 9a grade. (c) Fabio Fin. A few days later he onsighted his first 8c, Fish Eye in Oliana, which took some 30 minutes. In the 8a ranking game, the 23-year-old Italian is #3. "2017 will be focused on both competition and rocks, I did not have plans know for the Olympic until the official rules will be decided! I don't know what is the best format in speed, I don't like it too much."

Laura Rogora has done Joe Blau 8c+ in Oliana. The 15-year-old extends her lead in the 8a ranking game and in fact, in the history of female climbers' ranking her last year tick list is among the Top-5 ever. (c) Stefano Ghisolfi "I did one try four days ago but I thought it was too hard because I had only two more days left before the end of the trip. Yesterday, after a rest day, we come back to Oliana. I wanted to try Mind control but there were too much people on the route so I decided to try Joe Blau again. I understood all the moves and I did a very good try. I fell at the very last move because of the blood on my finger. Today I felt tired and my skin was almost finished but I decided to try it and after a long battle I reach the chain."

Laura Rogora si zapísala prelez cesty Joe Blau 8c+ v Oliane. Táto pätnásťročná talianska lezkyňa tak len zvýšila svoj náskok v rebríčkoch 8a a keď sa pozrieme do histórie na celkové hodnotenie žien, jej minuloročné zápisky do denníčka sú medzi piatimi najlepšími vôbec. (c) Stefano Ghisolfi "Štyri dni pred prelezom som cestu vyskúšala po prvý raz, no vtedy mi prišla príliš ťažká na to, že sme mali len dva dni do konca výjazdu. Hneď po rest dayi sme sa ale vrátili späť do Oliany. Pôvodne som chcela skúsiť Mind control, no na cestu čakalo príliš veľa ľudí, tak som sa rozhodla znovu dať pokus do Joe Blau. Teraz už som vedela všetky kroky a dala som veľmi dobrý pokus. Spadla som až v poslednom kroku kvôli krvi na prste. V deň prelezu som bola dosť unavená a mala som celkom zničenú kožu, no napriek tomu som sa rozhodla cestu vyskúšať a po dlhom boji som cvakla zlaňák."

A karácsonyi bejglievéstBarabás -Bézöl- Gábor sem vette túl komolyan, Olaszországban tolta ki a határokat. Mert hogy 7c+ -os on-sightot eddig nem sokan csűrtek le hazánkból (és bézölnek ehhez mindössze egy próbára volt szüksége...) A tetthelyszín az olaszországi Albenga volt, ahol Gábor a Cornelia 7c+ -al gazdagította ticklistjét. Azért projektelt is egy keveset ha már arra járt és el is esett a Super wives 8a+. "Fejlődés minden egyes külön próbával, micsoda érzés!"

After the recent frightening report from Sardinia, we asked Emanuele Pellizzari , who has been selling bolts for 15 years, to explain some more what to look out for in order to be able to identify dangerous bolts and about other safety measures. "Most of marine locations have been bolted with 304 (A2) stainless steel. Some areas are under rebolting either with 316 (A4) or other materials (Titanium/Titan Climbing or Duplex/ Fixe bolts products, or a treatment of 316/Raumer). While a zinc-plated hanger becomes rusted quickly, and therefore the level of rust define its strength (more rust means weaker), a stainless anchor looks ok, but can hold barely body weight. Given the scale of the rebolting needed, to expect all routes to be safe, we talk about a timeline of a decade and a lot of money. In some areas, more money is needed than probably the return from tourism. The general rule is that grey rock, often is less aggressive to anchors, since the rain, once in a while, washes the protections. Yellow rock (overhangs) is where most problems occur. I personally see no difference between glue ins and bolts in strength and resistance to corrosion, while some believes glue ins are more resistant. Some rocks are more aggressive than others. If a climber is not able to remember the handful shapes of hangers or glue ins used in the word, it should restrain from climbing in marine locations since he can’t judge if the route has been bolted recently, rebolted, and/or which gear has been used. In other words, “stay away if you can’t tell”. Big majority of climbers can’t tell, but they can study, since bolts producers are very few. If a climber does not take the care while climbing to check the protection, he should restrain from climbing in marine locations. In fact, all “new” gear has marked the kind of material they are made from. Said before, to investigate the shape of hangers or glue ins, it’s a matter of less than a dozen shapes. Some brands have the year of production stamped. So, if a climber checks, he can understand the kind of material and with a guess when if was bolted. Most important of all: contribute, contribute, and contribute on rebolting. Open your valet to pay. If the climbing community as a whole, does not contribute, very likely we better stop climbing in marine location in many areas of the world. A note of the materials used. 304 is lasting from 8 to 15 years in marine Mediterranean (warm) locations with some exceptions. 316 should last 30% more. How long it will last zinc plated is a guess, from years to very long. How long it will last the resin (glue) they use in titanium or duplex it’s a guess since no supplier has certified the resin for these materials and neither will warranty for longer than 3 years. So, each route that has been bolted more than 10 years ago, should be checked before committing to it. My opinion is that HCR expansion bolts are the best long term choice. Better than glue ins made from titanium/duplex." More UIAA official info.