NEWS

Two 8c+'s by Matteo Menardi (18)
Matteo Menardi, who did his first 9a two years ago, has done two 8c+'s in Fonzaso, Drumtime and Il Gladiatore. What are you projects/plans, what about training and comps? Probably I will come back to Fonzaso, because there is still one stunning line to climb; otherwise I'm going to try some unfinished projects closer to my home. I'm also looking forward to climb in the Osp Cave! Because I like climbing outside, I train climbing on hard routes. I also train indoor and, when I do not have the possibility to lead climbing, I enjoy training on a small board in my house. I will climb outdoor and, afterwards, I'm going to decide about the training for the competitions.

"Ha, ha! elล‘ sรญp, dob, zene! Harsogjon harsona!" Nagy hรฉtvรฉge elรฉ nรฉzett a Magyar (ร–ssze)Vรกlogatott Csapat Romรกniรกban. Temesvรกron rendeztรฉk meg az idei Pannonian Bouldering Series elsล‘ fordulรณjรกt, ahol a Magyar csapat tรถkรถsen helytรกllt. A verseny egyik fล‘szervezล‘je รฉs az รบtรฉpรญtล‘k koordinรกtora Luzรกn Matyi volt a csapat szรกllรกsadรณja, akinek vendรฉgszeretetรฉrล‘l mรฉltรกn terjed a hรญr a hatรกron innen รฉs tรบl egyarรกnt. A Dรถntล‘be hรกrom Magyar fiatal is bejutott, a szรกzhalombattai BXSC kรฉt versenyzล‘je Matusz Richard รฉs az elsล‘ helyen dรถntล‘be jutรณ Balogh Zsolt, illetve a Gerecse SE versenyzล‘je Izer Bรกlint. Borbรฉly Gรกbor a 14. helyezรฉst szerezte meg, a dรถntล‘ben pedig Ricsi az 5., Zsolti a 3., Bรกlint pedig a 2. helyezรฉssel รถregbรญtette orszรกgunk hรญrnevรฉt. A BHSK blog hamarosan prezentรกlja a teljes hรฉtvรฉgi akciรณt egy hosszabb videรณ kรญsรฉretรฉben. A One Move teremben megrendezett versenyt egyรฉbkรฉnt a hรถlgyeknรฉl a romรกniai Ana-Maria Zaharia, fรฉrfiaknรกl pedig a szerb Luka Perunivic nyerte. A PBS mรกsodik fordulรณja kรฉt hรฉt mรบlva a szerbiai รšjvidรฉken lesz - ahol a fiรบknak ismรฉt a dobogรณ a cรฉl, a harmadik fordulรณ pedig feltehetล‘leg Budapesten a Monkey Boulderban lesz megtartva. Ha Budapest kรฉsz becsatlakozni egy nemzetkรถzi versenysorozatba az nemcsak azt fogja jelenteni, hogy menedzsmentileg (is!) megรฉrtรผnk a versenyszervezรฉsre, hanem azt is; hogy egy hazai terem tรถbbet tehet a kรถrnyezล‘ orszรกgok versenyzล‘iรฉrt รฉs a kรถzรถs kapcsolattartรกsรฉrt, mint valaha!

Uncharted Lines from Uncharted Lines Vimeo channel. Paul Robinson has been working on this film featuring Webb, Woods, Ceria, Sharma, Graham, Martin and others for 2 years. Please tell us about the process. Yeah, it has been quite the crazy process! The whole idea began a while back when I wanted to create a film all about the process of doing first ascents all over the world. I was lucky enough to have some amazing friends come along on the journey and be a part of the film. From failures in Siberia, to searching for rock in Zimbabwe, to watching Daniel Woods send one of the hardest boulders in the world, it has been an incredible 2 years.

8c+ by Ola Przybysz
15 January 2017

8c+ by Ola Przybysz

Ola Przybysz, who had a personal best of 8b some eight months ago, has done her first 8c+, Spicy Noodle in Yangshou. A possible explanation for the great progress can be found on Facebook. (c) Eben Farnworth "Recently I realized that the last couple of years of my life were just a sick game to a person that I thought was really close to me. The heaviness and premeditation of the actions are a real shock to me. There are some things that even with the most detailed explanation I will never understand. Itโ€™s just not something from the world I am from....This climb worked like a cure."

9a again by Nicolas Favresse
Nicolas Favresse has done Du neuf avec du vieux 9a in Brianรงonnais after a month of training as a preparation for his next big Patagonia project. The route was put up by Yann "Diego" Ghesquiers in 2015. It is interesting that Nicolas never trains indoor or even uses a hang board. "For the past 3 years I have been struggling with a few injuries which have prevented me to push myself in climbing. First I tore a ligament in my wrist which forced me not to climb for a total of 8 months. It was my longest break ever. Then I started to have some issues with my cervical spine which i damage a while ago on a 10m ground fall in the Gunks. The tricky thing is it irritates a nerve whenever I do any physical exercise and then my shoulder tend to become less stable because of that. So the solution for me is to climb mostly on low angle climbs, take a lot of rest and replace indoor training with ski touring in the mountains or other cardio activities. I am really surprised to see how well it works for me. I am pretty psyched because in a few days I go to Torres del Paine, Patagonia with my friends Sean Villanueva and Siebe Vanhee and we need to be strong because our goal is to attempt to free climb a line on the East face of the central Tower. The Torres del Paine has some of the best quality granite in Patagonia and the East face of the Central Tower is longer than El Cap in Yosemite and just as blank and steep! Off course we will bring musical instruments on the wall so that we can elevate ourselves with our music."

8C again by Ichimiya Daisuke
Ichimiya Daisuke has done the third ascent of Horizon 8C in Hiei after seven days of projecting. It was put up by Dai Koyamada and repeated by Ashima Shiraishi. "This problem is a long roof like an horizon..so cool!!" The 23-year-old's biggest plan for 2017 is to go back to Colorado again, where he has unfinished business with Jade 8B+ and The Game 8C.