10 February 2017

9b FA by Adam Ondra in the storm

Adam Ondra has done the FA of Mamichula 9b in Oliana. "Linkup of Papichulo and Pachamama. Links the best of of both routes, skipping the rests and adding hard traverse. Sick power endurance climbing, comp style. Definitely hard 9b for me, too pumpy." The day started with a storm and Adam thought it was impossible to climb but it did calm down. Check the chalk bag from the picture from the Fanatic Climbing video, which is all about speed, flexibility and screaming as usual. What is your competition plan for 2017 and what about your Olympic plans? My plans for this season is to do ECH in Lead, and WC in Arco, and that's it. Otherwise my priority is Flatanger. I have no plans about Olympics before the format will finally be revealed. It is too early to think about it. My opinion about the format is widely known and I have no interest in training speed right now, even earlier before everything is confirmed. What do you think of the 8a suggestion of Olympic format? (First one round of all three disciplines and then calculate Top-8. Later a final round of all three disciplines and calculate who will get the medals. Or optional finish with a Duel semi and final.) What I don't like is the Duel finals. I say - yes, it is attractive to the audience. And for the athletes as well. But only as long as it is "fun" comp - like Arco duel or DWS in Salt Like City. If it gets as serious as fighting for the Olympic medals - it will not be be fun any more for competitors. There will not friendly atmosphere any more. Furthermore, you cannot include discipline which has never been within IFSC circuit. To make a new thing and include straight in the Olympic finals? Why? And it has nothing to do with climbing tradition - it shows absolutely about what we all consider climbing art - it only shows that you can go fast in medium hard route. With the rest of proposal, I think it is quite reasonable in terms of fairness, but it is incredibly difficult in terms of time and organization.
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Jamie Emerson is currently in Switzerland where he and his friends are steadily sending hard and classic problems. In visiting Cresciano he ran into Adam Ondra making quick work of Dreamtime, 8B+. A video of Adam on the problem can be found on Jamie's website where you can also find high quality phโ€ฆ
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1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL 1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS 1. 93: Adam Ondra CZE - Berit Schwaiger AUT Overall, the Austrians dominated as always and in the youngest female category, 4 out of the Top-7 were Austrian girls born -94!