NEWS

8B (A+) by Caroline Sinno in Font
Caroline Sinno, who had sent three 8A+'s previously, has done Miroir de vanitรฉ 8B (A+) in Fontainebleau. In the 8a ranking game, the owner of Crimpoil is #11. "Nice trav opened by Jean-Pierre Bouvier back in the days on the boulder of haute tension in Rempart. I found the moves very cool and it's pretty short and intense (around 15 moves) so I didn't feel I was pump but more struggling for the last hard move and a bit scared for the top out. Good training for my other project la cicatrice! I was thinking more 8a+ for the grade but I don't know?"

Pietro Biagini, who did his first 8c+ almost two years ago, has done Anchorage 8c+ in Albenga, and he only needed two sessions. In the Combined Youth World Championship, the Italian got the bronze but later it turned out that the calculation was wrong and he was #4. What is you plan and ambition 2017? I really don't know if I can be part of the team that will go to the Olympics in 2020, but this year one of my most important objectives in addition to the world championships in Innsbruck will be definitely the qualification for the Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires in 2018. In fact this year I will train more the Speed โ€‹โ€‹for having more chances in the combined! Of course I also have many ideas for the rock and I would also participate in some of the World Cup. A dilemma for Pietro is that it is two hours driving from where he lives to the nearest IFSC Speed wall so he also agrees that it would be better if there were verious speed climbing routes.

8C FA by Toshi Takeuchi
19 February 2017

8C FA by Toshi Takeuchi

Toshi Takeuchi has done the FA of Kuzo 8C in Mie, which adds an 8B dyno intro to Borsalino 8B+. In the 8a ranking game, the Japanese is #2. "Finally stick the Dyno from start!!!! 7 moves 8B+ and 1 move 8B (Crux Dyno). I am very proud to add new vision for this legendary problem. Could be C+ but I don't have such a experience to judge that border line. Time will tell:) On to the next!!!"

First 8A by Leo Skinner (just 13)
Leo Skinner, who turned 13 two days ago, has done his first 8A, Butch Cassidy at Dinas Rock and it went down fast. "Three and a bit sessions and it went down in the wet. glad to get this done whilst I'm still young! stuck the bottom crux moves and power screamed through until the finish. out of nowhere!" Here is a video from Albarracin he edited some 10 months ago and his coach, Morgan Preece, they got the 8A on film.

Henning Wang got the last day action from Adam Ondra's tries on Neanderthal 9b, where he got very high up "Despite the conditions, (wet tufa, 20+ degrees, high humidity)," and after skipping many quickdraws did fall probably some 20 meters.

Henning Wang zachytil poslednรฝ deลˆ pokusovania Adama Ondru v ceste Neanderthal 9b. Adam v tejto dlhej vytrvalostnej stropovici zaznamenal dobrรฝ progres "...napriek podmienkam (pokrรก tufa, viac ako 20 stupลˆov, vysokรก vlhkosลฅ)..." a v tomto pokuse si po necvaknutรญ niekoฤพkรฝch expresiek zalietal cca 20 metrov.

La Sportiva Climb in 60 Gyms starts today in Moscow
The annual Climb-In-Gym Tour starts today in Moscow and until 25/4, the LaSportiva will visit 60 big gyms in 13 countries in Europe.

Stefano Ghisolfi gets the Highpoint on the Project
Stefano Ghisolfi got the highpoint on the Project as a nice birthday present and in fact he could be called superior. In reality, the show and route could have been better as we did not see too much fight as it starts very easy in comparison to World Cup routes. Furthermore, the limited rest and possibly also the fact that conditions got worse due to the crowd, which warmed the place, made the second attempt mainly worse. The climber who has the highpoint each year Will get 1 000 euro. If you manage to top out, you get 5 000 euro. It seems impossible even if Adam Ondra will try later this spring.

Stefano Ghisolfi nyomta a legjobbat a  Projectre
Stefano Ghisolfi mรกszott a legtovรกbb a Stockholmi Projekten a megnyitรณ gรกlaestjรฉn. Igazรกn szรฉp szรผlinapi ajรกndรฉk (plรกne ha a borรญtรฉkot is megkapja mellรฉ), az Olasz rekord tehรกt felรกllรญtva. Volt mรฉg pรกr nagyobb nรฉv, mint Jorg Verhoeven, Magnus Midtbo, a jรณ รถreg Nalle รฉs a hรถlgyektล‘l a fiatal Kajsa Rosรฉn. A show azรฉrt nem รผtรถtte meg a vilรกgkupa szรญnvonalat, mivel egy nagyon kรถnnyลฑ รบton kezdtek a mรกszรณk, de ez a kรถnnyลฑ รบt รญgy is a fรผggล‘legesig 8a, ott egy szรฉp nagy ugrรกs, majd jรถhet a 8A+/B plafonboulder, ami pihenล‘ nรฉlkรผl belevezet az egyre nehezedล‘ vรฉgsล‘ kiszรกllรณ 8C boulderbe. A laikusok mรกr 10a-t emlegetnek... Kรฉt prรณbรกbรณl kellett a legjobbat kihozni a megnyitรณn, talรกn a tรถmeg miatti egyre melegedล‘ terem รฉs kevรฉs pihenล‘idล‘ is rรกsegรญtett, hogy elsล‘re mindenki jobbat mรกsszon. ร‰vrล‘l รฉvre aki a legjobbat teljesรญti majd megkapja az 1000 euro-t, a Top-รฉrt pedig jรกr a busรกs รถtรถs. Sokak szerint ez senkit sem fenyeget, hacsak Adam Ondra nem tervez errefelรฉ egy lรกtogatรกst a nyรกri Flatanger tripp elล‘tt. A szervezล‘k annyit รญgรฉrtek, a teremben van klรญma - le lehet hลฑteni, ha csak ez hiรกnyozna a sikerhez!!!