If you do not like dynos, you seldom practice them and as a result, your technique for this kind of move gets even worse. In the end you cannot even catch the next hold. You end up as a static climber but sometimes dynos or long reaches are the only way for doing your project or onsight. Here are the 14 advanced technical tips which may help you practice. Hopefully you will start liking and performing long dynos as you get better at them. Do not let the picture frighten you. If you have not trained or practiced dynos or long catches during the last months, you should start very slowly. Even so you will improve your dyno technique tremendously after just few sessions as well as getting that nice adrenaline. Then you could opt for the 14 advanced technical tips.

Alex Puccio has done Rumble in the Jungle and The Flame in Hueco Tanks, both originally 8A+ but now mostly considered as 8A's. "Two 8A's today! And I didn't use a single kneebar on this boulder! :) I tried both of these boulders many year ago psyched to have returned back to them today!" (c) Westmountainmedia

A hétvégén zajlott az első hazai boulder kupaforduló az Ujjerő mászótermében, Budapesten. A verseny rendhagyó volt, ugyanis a kupaforduló állomása lett a Pannon Boulder Kupasorozatnak, több kocsival érkeztek a Románai és Szerbiai versenyzők, hogy próbára tegyék magukat az itthoni mezőnyben. Előre is sejteni lehetett, hogy a döntőbe jutásért vér fog folyni, ha végignézzük a jelenlegi felhozatalt. Talán ki merném mondani még nem volt ilyen erős a Magyar férfi boulder mezőny, se Román, se Szerb versenyző nem jutott a 8-as döntőbe! Csajok versenye is tartogatott izgalmakat, bár a selejtező eredményei alapján elég világosan ki lehet jelenteni, hogy Norci toronymagasan kiemelkedik a boulderlányok közül. (Lásd a selejtezőben 20 Topja lett, a másodikként továbbjutó Kucsera Lenkének pedig 14.) A versenyt végül a németországi versenysorozatra készülő Norci, és az Ifi Európa Kupára gyúró Soma nyerte. Hatalmas Gratuláció nekik!

As Combined Climbing will be part of the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, Speed climbing will also be included in most of national Youth Championships. The dilemma is that 13-year-old girls and boys will be challenged on the same route as professional adults. The current fixed 6b+ is actually much harder to do for a 140 cm tall girl. The last Youth World Championship showed that also the younger girls can climb it quite fast. You needed to do the climb in 12.28 seconds to make it into the final, which is almost doubled time for adult male. However, in the Oceania Championship, the winner climbed the Speed route in 55 seconds. Imagine how many short 13-year-olds will actually not be able to top out or to do it in less than one minute in upcoming nationals. Somebody could argue that there could be Speed routes fixed for different ages, height and levels but this would not be fair as the very best youngsters would need to optimize their training on different routes. The simple solution is to skip the fixed Speed route and instead let it vary for each event, like Lead routes. In practice this means that the Speed route could be any grade from 5a to 7a making everyone focus on Speed instead of trying to redpoint the Olympic Speed route sub 1 minute.

This nice Font video shows a good portrait of Megan Mascarenas, #4 in the 8a ranking game, who was always in the Top-4 in the last six World Cups.

There are few climbers who perform at a high level on both routes and boulders. Here is the Top-5 Combined female ranking where Amanda Berezowski (in the picture) is #2. Last year she did her first 8b+ and during the last week, she did her first three 7C+'s. The boulder in the photo is Slow Dance in Bishop. "Climbing is my life! I started in Calgary on a competitive youth team, travel, climb and compete internationally, was part of developing the Virgin Gorda." Check her blog!

Pekný lezecký video potrét Megan Mascarenas z lezenia vo Fontainebleau. Táto americká lezkyňa je na štvrtom mieste v rebríčku 8a a v posledných šiestich kolách svetového pohára neskončila horšie ako štvrtá.

V súšasnosti je len málo lezcov či lezkýň, ktorí by dosahovali špičkové výsledky v oboch lezení s lanom a boulderingu. Na obrázku môžeš vidieť Top-5 z nášho 8a.nu rebríčka, kde sa na druhom mieste nachádza Amanda Brezowska. Minulý rok preliezla svoje prvé 8b+ a iba posledný týždeň za jej podarilo vyliezť svoje prvé tri 7C+ká. Boulder na fotke je Slow Dance v Bishope. "Lezenie je môj život! Začala som liezť v súťažnom juniorskom tíme v Calgary, cestovala som, liezla a súťažila aj medzinárodne a bola som pri tom, keď sa rozvíjala lezecká oblasť Virgin Gorda." Oplatí sa pozrieť aj jej blog!

Alex Puccio, who previously has done two 8B+'s, has done her sixteenth 8B, Luther in Hueco Tanks." A bit more of a battle then I thought it was going to be. Would be an amazing climb if the beginning was higher off the ground, but the Chablanke wall is SO beautiful! Bigger power moves into an awesome climb! Skin is getting tougher for the real proj!!! :)"

Kimbrough Moore has done a research on Which Climbing Companies Sponsor The Most Women?. Here is his list of top 10 out of 19 companies primarily taken into account. It interesting that all the six companies who have had banners on 8a last year are at very top of the list, written in bold. 1 Prana 45% 2 Sterling Ropes 41% 3 Mammut 38% 4 Five Ten 36% 5 Evolv 35% 6 Metolius 31% 7 Mad Rock, North Face, La Sportiva 29% 10 Black Diamond, Petzl 28% Here you can find another research showing that only some 5% of topos have been written by female.