Kimbrough Moore has done a research on Which Climbing Companies Sponsor The Most Women?. Here is his list of top 10 out of 19 companies primarily taken into account. It interesting that all the six companies who have had banners on 8a last year are at very top of the list, written in bold. 1 Prana 45% 2 Sterling Ropes 41% 3 Mammut 38% 4 Five Ten 36% 5 Evolv 35% 6 Metolius 31% 7 Mad Rock, North Face, La Sportiva 29% 10 Black Diamond, Petzl 28% Here you can find another research showing that only some 5% of topos have been written by female.

Az első "köteles" autók célozták meg a melegebb idő reményében az Isztriát. Jellemzően az első túrák a teremkiszabadulás fényében zajlanak, ez leginkább métermászást és on-sightolást jelent a többségnek. Nem úgy Bajusz Balázsnak, aki bezsebelte az első idei Magyar 8a-t, negyedik köztestől földig zakó ide, fájó ujjak oda.. a 7c on-sight és a 8a second go úgy látszik be van gyúrva. A Ledeno Doba, Medveja-i 8a esett el. De Északabbra is szikkadás volt. Nagy Ferdinánd pörentett oda, a lassan már saját birtokának mondható Spitzen, ráadásul nem is akárhogy! Nándi két 8A+ büntetett le egy nap alatt a Mandela és a Büdös Patkány nevű bouldereket. Utóbbinak egyébként ez volt az első ismétlése. Számos projektet és FA-t kerget jelenleg is Nándi - reméljük beérnek még tavaszig a vadak.

Ida Kupś, who was #7 in the Boulder Youth Championship 2016, has done her first 8c, Fabelita in Santa Linya. (c) Wojtek Kozakiewicz tells us that in fact it was on her last day before going back to Poland. "I was on a three-week climbing trip in Spain, mostly in Santa Linya, except few sessions in Oliana, Terradets and others nearby crags. This route was my main goal so I focused especially on it. I think it was more or less 10 days of work. In 2017 I'd like to focus on bouldering comps, especially to prepare as good as I can for the WYCH in Insbruck. I plan to participate in some senior World Cups, probably Switzerland, Germany and Japan. I hope to have time for some small climbing trips outdors, mainly in Poland and maybe somewhere abroad during the summer holidays. These are my plans for now, but who knows what future will bring."

Roberto Podio jumps two grades up and does his first 9a, Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga. "I started to try the route in December and the movements came naturally from the very start. I honestly thought that I would have done it in a short time but I have to admit that I had underestimated it, as you need a huge dose of concentration and endurance to do it. It is extraordinary for me to join the èlite of people who can do the 9a, as it is an incredible emotion and this demonstrates that with the right amount of determination you can achieve everything. A special thanks to the Vertical Park gym and to all the friends who accompanied and supported me in this experience."

"Can you record a route where you grabbed the anchor?" If you grab an anchor, you do the route artificially and you should not record it. In general this also means that the anchor is misplaced and you can add a variation of the route with a lower grade if you just reached the clipping position. Climbing accomplishments should be about doing sequences and not jumping to anchors or reaching high up to clip a misplaced anchor.

Otázka: "Môžeš si zapísať cestu, ak si na jej konci pred cvaknutím chytil zlaňák?" Ak sa musíš pred cvaknutím držať za borhák či reťaz zlaňáku, tak si na prelez použil umelú pomôcku a nemal by si si ho zapísať. Takisto to ale môže naznačovať, že ak sa zlaňák cvaká ťažko, je pravdepodobne zle umiestený. Alternatívou môže byť doliezť k predposlednému isteniu cesty a spraviť tak ľahšiu variantu, poprípade doliezť k zlaňáku a odskočiť si, čo však z hľadiska bezpečnosti nie vždy ide. Lezecký výkon by mal byť v prvom rade o prelezení ťažkých sekvencií a nie o nutnosti chytania sa zlaňákov či o naťahovaní sa za zle umiestneným istením.

Toru Nakajima reports on Facebook that he has done Paul Robinson's Lucid Dreaming in Bishop. It took the Japanese three years and 16 sessions. Given that Paul originally thought the problem was an 8C+ and that Alex Megos called it his hardest, it might be a contender to be upgraded? "We arrived Bishop at 15th but rain kept us inside until yesterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, i realized I can check holds and my condition on everything. we walked laughed load because of heavy snow this January. I cleaned up holds, put mats, and practiced crux move as like last year. I realized I can do crux move far easier than last year. Although my middle finger skin split, I thought I can complete this problem and have to do it now. I started from the beginning, caught the grassy and small pinch, and caught the final crimp like it was practice. I couldn't believe it while my way to the top, even I descended to the ground. I paid enormous energy and time, I felt heavy mental pressures during last two years, however I felt it more easier than I expected. I was really happy, but as times go on, I became confused. May be i have to wait for a while to understand what meaning this three seasons. Thank you everyone who cheered and supported me!!"

Piotr Schab, who has already done four 9a's in February, has onsighted L'espiadimonis 8c in Margalef, which originally was an 8c+. Cold fingers, free mind, good flow, big fight!" In the 8a ranking game, the 20 year old Pole is #3.

The idea and concept of Klättercentret's challenge, The Project, is really nice. Here are some suggestions how to make it more interesting. 1. Make the route a 9b, it will still be the hardest indoor route in the world and if someone tops it out, just make the last move harder, i.e. 9b+. 2. Put up a first 9a anchor with equal money prize for the female. The current Euro 5 000 for the top is a bit discriminating for the female. 3. Attach grades to the some holds on the way so an average Joe could try and go for a personal best. Naturally sponsors can say that they want their athletes to go and try the route but in reality why should a rock climber invest weeks for working on a project they know they cannot do. Would the rock climber not try to do their 9a project instead?

Myšlienka a koncept The Projectu, ktorá vznikla v švédskom Klatterncentrete, je parádna. Tu je zopár návrhov, ako ju spraviť ešte zaujímavejšou. 1. Postaviť cestu ako 9b, čo ju aj tak bude robiť najťažšou indoorovou cestou na svete, a ako ju niekto preleziem, jednoducho spraviť posledný krok ťažší, napr. 9b+. 2. Spraviť alternatívny zlaňák, ku ktorému by obtiažnosť cesty bola napr. 9a a dať rovnakú finančnú odmenu pre prvú ženu, ktorá k nemu dolezie. Momentálne odmenu 5000€ za prelezenie projektu je pre ženy trochu diskriminujúca. 3. Pridať hodnotenie k niektorých chytom postupne v ceste, aby si ktokoľvek, kto cestu polezie, mohol zmerať, ako ďaleko sa dostal. Sponzori prirodzene chcú, aby sa športovci, ktorých sponzorujú, pustili do takéhoto projektu, ale prečo by mal lezec stráviť týždne nacvičovaním umelej cesty, aj keď vie, že ju nemôže dať celú? Nie je logickejšie pre takéhoto lezca ísť radšej skúšať nejaký 9a projekt vonku? Autor: Jens Larssen