NEWS

Also Ghisolfi and Larcher do La Rambla 9a+
Stefano Ghisolfi, who in the last 12 months has done one 9b and five 9a+' has in just four tries done La Rambla 9a+. (c) Paolo Sarto On Facebook, #4 in the Lead WC 2016, says that four years ago he stood under it but did not have the courage to even try it. This year he started with a flash attempt. Two days ago, Jacopo Larcher reported on Facebook after having struggled almost a week with La Rambla, "We have just two more days left and I'm falling always higher on "La Rambla". Let's hope for the classic "last day, best day"!". Today Barbara Zangerl reported on Facebook that Jacopo Larcher's prediction was right, "He did it on the last day!!! Last minute!!!!!! Yeaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh".

Safety in focus for the pupils in Brunico
In Brunico it is mandatory for the pupils to learn how to climb and they practice 12 times per year from when they are seven years old. In fact, they also get a grade based on their performance, including safety, knowledge etc, which is included in their overall gymnastic grade. From the time the pupils are 12 years old they are allowed to belay themselves, but they start practicing when they are eight years old. In the beginning they are closely supervised by their teachers and instructors and they always belay in pairs. Later, they begin to belay themselves but only after the teacher has made a knot two meters up on the rope (see the picture). Once they lower down their friends, they pass the knot and tighten the rope which makes the rope loosen up. Tubes or Eights are not allowed and instead everyone is using semi-auto belay devices. When they started with the mandatory climbing in school 18 months ago, some of the teachers, parents and pupils were a bit skeptical but it has turned out to a great success.

Bouldering on Grafitti walls
Mammut presents some nice bouldering picures by Thomas Monsorno from a famous grafitti wall in Bolzano. It is Michael Piccolruaz, #3 this weekend on CWIF, who boulders and has written the article - Trying something new.

Luzรกn Matyi - Egy pรกratlan mรกszรณ egyedรผlรกllรณ metรณdusa
Matyas Luzan 2014-ben kezdte a megszรกllott edzรฉseket az Action Directe 9a รบtรฉrt, motivรกciรณja รฉvrล‘l รฉvre egyre emberfelettibb erล‘ tulajdonosรกvรก teszi รฉs ismerve Matyit a Dรกvid รฉs Gรณliรกt harca sem biztos hogy olyan sokรกig fog mรกr tartani. 2015 szezonban Matyi lesรฉrรผlt a projektelรฉs elsล‘ napjรกn, de รฉpรญtkezett a hibรกkbรณl รฉs a motivรกciรณja sem lett kevesebb. Tavaly Matyi egy teljesen รบj lรกbfejezล‘s bรฉtรกt talรกlt ki a kรถzรฉpsล‘ szekciรณra, ami csรถkkenti a mozdulatok szรกmรกt, kihagyva az egyik kulcs egyujjas fogรกst. Jelenleg Matyi megszรกllottan edz a teremben, van hogy 10 รณrรกn keresztรผl vereti, erejรฉrล‘l szรกmos nemrรฉgiben napvilรกgot lรกtott videรณ tanรบskodik. Egy edzรฉs alatt megmรกszta utcai cipล‘ben a Komjรกti 8A bouldert, illetve prezentรกlรณdnak a 8A-8B boulderek szรฉp szรกmmal. Video doing Moonboard's up to 8B. "Jelenleg 10 รณrรกt tรถltรถk a teremben รฉs prรณbรกlom kihozni a legjobb formรกmat. Mit mondhatnรฉk... egyszerลฑen imรกdom. ลszintรฉn szรณlva ez arrรณl is szรณl, hogy el kell tudni jutni a fรกjdalomig, de azรฉrt ez nem olyan dramatikus mint amilyennek hangzik. Teljes รฉlvezet, mรกszni mรกsokkal, mรกszni egyedรผl meg ilyesmik. " Matyi terve, hogy hamarosan รบjra nekiรกll az AD megรฉpรญtett falรกn valรณ gyakorlรกsnak. Mรกjusban pedig 8b legnehezebb kรถteles megmรกszรกssal Matyi elindul Nรฉmetorszรกgba, az Action Directe alรก sรกtorfรกt ver รฉs addig le sem bontja mรญg meg nem mรกssza, vรกrva a legjobb kondรญciรณkra. Ha ez sikerรผl az vilรกgrekord lesz abbรณl a szempontbรณl, hogy mรฉg soha senki nem ugrott ekkorรกt a fokozatokban, lรกsd 8b -> 9a. Bennem szรกmos kรฉrdรฉst felvet mรฉg, mi fog tรถrtรฉnni Matyi motivรกciรณjรกval ha sikerรผlne elejteni a nagy vadat รฉs hasonlรณk...de remรฉlem erre majd a megmรกszรกs utรกn visszatรฉrhetek. Matyival telefonkontaktban leszek a projektรกlรกs alatt, รญgy elsล‘ kรฉzbล‘l jรถnnek majd az infรณk. ;-) De a fenti kรฉpre visszatรฉrve: "Ez egy kรถnnyebb megoldรกs, HA elรฉg erล‘s vagy, kellล‘en hajlรฉkony รฉs tรถkรฉletes paramรฉtereid vannak ehhez a fogรกs-lรฉpรฉs pozรญciรณhoz." 8a interview from 2015

The Circuit Climbing napรญsali ฤlรกnok o CWIF 2017 s komentรกrom, ลพe novรฉ pravidlo ลกtyroch minรบt je totรกlna katastrofa. "Od pretekรกrov, cez divรกkov aลพ ku stavaฤom, kaลพdรฝ sa sลฅaลพoval, ลพe novรฝ formรกt mal na sรบลฅaลพ negatรญvny vplyv."

Stefano Ghisolfi a Jacopo Larcher ฤalลกรญ z rady prelezcov La Rambly 9a+
Stefano Ghisolfi preliezol za poslednรฝ rok jedno 9b a pรคลฅ 9a+ a nedรกvno pridal do svojej zbierky ฤalลกie - La Rambla 9a+, a cesta mu zabrala len ลกtyri pokusy. (c) Paolo Sarto ล tvorka svetovรฉho pohรกra 2016, Stefano na svojom Facebooku povedal, ลพe pod cestou stรกl pred ลกtyrmi rokmi, no vtedy nenabral odvahu ju vyskรบลกaลฅ. Tento rok sa do nej pustil z ostra: flashovรฝm pokusom. Pred dvomi dลˆami sa na Facebooku z cesty ozval aj Jacopo Larcher so slovami: "Pred nami sรบ poslednรฉ dva dni vรฝjazdu a ja v La Ramble pรกdam stรกle vyลกลกie a vyลกลกie. Dรบfajme v klasickรฉ "poslednรฝ deลˆ, najlepลกรญ deลˆ." A dnes Barbara Zangerl priลกla so sprรกvou, ลพe Jacopove slovรก sa naplnili. "Preliezol ju v poslednรฝ deลˆ!!! V poslednej minรบte!!!!!! Yeaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh"

Bezpeฤnosลฅ v centre pozronosti pre ลพiakov v Brunicu
V meste Brunico sa ลพiaci povinne uฤia liezลฅ od siedmich rokov a "hodiny" majรบ 12-krรกt do roka. Predmet je znรกmkovanรฝ, do celkovรฉho hodnotenia sa rรกta fyzickรก ฤasลฅ, ako aj vลกeobecnรฉ znalosti ฤi znalosti bezpeฤnosti. Deti sa mรดลพu navzรกjom istiลฅ od dvanรกstich rokov, no uฤiลฅ sa technike istenia zaฤnรบ uลพ v รดsmich. Zo zaฤiatku sรบ pod stรกlym dozorom uฤiteฤพov a inลกtruktorov a vลพdy istia v dvojiciach. Neskรดr mรดลพu zaฤaลฅ istiลฅ samostatne, no aลพ po tom, ฤo uฤiteฤพ uviaลพe bezpeฤnostnรฝ uzol na kaลพdรฝch cca dvoch metroch lana (uzol je vidno na obrรกzku). Pri spรบลกลฅanรญ svojho parลฅรกka im jednoducho staฤรญ zatiahnuลฅ lano so spodnej strany uzla, ฤรญm sa povolรญ a mรดลพu spรบลกลฅaลฅ ฤalej. Kรฝbliky alebo osmy sa pouลพรญvaลฅ nesmรบ, deckรก istia s poloautomatickรฝmi istรญtkami. Keฤ pred osemnรกstimi mesiacmi ลกkola zaฤรญnala s povinnรฝmi hodinami lezenia, viacero uฤiteฤพov, rodiฤov, ale aj ลพiakov bolo pomerne skeptickรฝch, no program mรก nakoniec veฤพkรฝ รบspech.

The Circuit Climbing has made a review of CWIF 2017 saying the new 4 minute rule in the final was a complete disaster. "Everyone, from the climbers, to the spectators to the setters complained about the impact on the show."

Two 8c onsight and a 9a by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra reported yesterday on Instagram with a picture by Javi Pec from a failed onsight attempt of Directa Cornualles 8c in Siurana that he has been sick in beds for some days. "Since then I have been recovering, but I am not back in the shape where I would like to be (and was). Sad to be almost leaving with all my projects untouched, but they will not run away." Anyway, Adam had time to redpoint Fabelita R2 9a and onsight two 8c's in Sadernes, Milenium and Magin el Mago. In total, the 24 year old has recorded 81 routes onsight 8c and harder which can be compared with the runner-ups who have done like a handful. He also did a "retro-onsight" of Le Concepte integrale 8c+. "I had tried the first 8b+ part 8 yrs ago."

Three 8c's by Laura Rogora (15)
Laura Rogora has during the last week done three 8c's including the FA of Ercole bolted by Cesare Giuliani in Collepardo. Yesterday she did the chipped route Crazy Horse skipping one of the chipped holds. To make the 15 year old's ascent event more impressive, she did it second go. (c) Lorenzo Russo "I understood all the moves quite quickly. I had to try a few times only one move because I didn't reach one chipped holds so I had to find another method on natural holds.