1 WATABE Keita - GARNBRET Janja 2 CHON Jongwon - KOTAKE Mei 3 CORNU Manuel - NONAKA Mio 4 KRUDER Jernej - COXSEY Shauna 5 SUGIMOTO Rei - ONOE Aya 6 NARASAKI Tomoa - KIM Kain Complete results Interestingly, out of the first six males and females in the qualification, only Shauna and Tomoa (WC winners 2016) and Keita made it to the final. The commentators said that worse conditions in the semi compared to the qualification could possibly be the reason this.

Iuliia Kapliva from Russia and Reza Alipourshena from Iran set new world records by 7.38 respective to 5.48, winning the third stage of the Speed World Cup in Nanjing in China. Out of the Boulderers, Sean McColl was best #32 with 8.74. You had to do 6.53 to make it into the Top-16. Other than that, the problem with false start and slipping continues and almost 50 % of the time in the finals, the winner is not decided by who is the fastest. The solution for this could be that if you make a false start, you get a penalty of 0.5 seconds but at least there will be a battle. Imagine the world championship or the Olympics viewers watching just one climber jogging the route at the same time the opponent stands super frustrated below. In regards the slipping, the easiest idea is to add more foot holds and to possibly make some bigger. Complete results.

Stefano Ghisolfi has did his ninth 9a+ by the FA of One Punch in Arco. Last year, the 24 year old Italian was #4 in the Lead World Cup after having one event. (c) Vertical Eye - Matteo Pavana. "Ten days of work, my hardest 9a+ so far, I think could be close to 9b. Second hardest route in Arco! Belayed by Adam!"

The Himalayan Times prichádzajú so smutnou správou, že "Švajčiarska Mašina", Ueli Steck, zomrel pri páde na Mt. Nuptse neďaleko Mt. Everestu. Toto bol posledný post, ktorý pridal na svoju Facebookovú stránku. "Rýchly deň z Basecampu do 7000m a naspäť. Milujem to, toto miesto je parádne. Stále verím v aktívnu aklimatizáciu. Je to omnoho efektívnejšie ako prespávať vo veľkých výškach!" Ueli bol známy svojimi rýchlymi prelezmi v horách po celom svete, mnohokrát sólo. Tentokrát bolo jeho plánom zdolať Mt. Everest nikdy nezopakovaným západným hrebeňom/Hornbeinovým kuloárom bez kyslíka. Pozn. prekl: Ueli mal ďalej v pláne traverzovať na Lhotse.

1. Keita Watabe JPN - Shauna Coxey GBR 2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN - Janja Garnbret SLO 3. Jernej Kruder SLO - Miho Nonaka JPN Kompletné výsledky Excelentné finále, parádne postavené bouldre, no neobišlo sa to bez niekoľkých incidentov. V prvom bouldri chytil Keita Watabe top jednou rukou sekundu pred koncom časomiery, no rozhodca dal OK napriek tomu, že top kontroloval len na zlomok sekundy. Ani komentátori si neboli istí, ako sa k situácii postaviť, keďže predchádzajúce informácie zneli: "pretekár musí kontrolovať chyť tri sekundy". Na obrázku je Keita pred záverečným krížom do topu, po ňom už len priložil ľavú ruku na vrch štruktúry. Len pár okamihov pred tým dostal od rozhodcu OK. Časomiera ukazuje 2 sekundy do konca, v realite to bolo niekde medzi 1 a 2 sekundami, z čoho vieme usúdiť, že Keita kontrolovať top len na zlomok sekundy a napriek tomu dostal od rozhodcu OK. Navyše, tak ako v Chonggingu, bolo pri jednom z bouldrov treba podržať malý chyt na štruktúre a veľa pretekárov si to neuvedomilo a držali len štruktúru, mysliac si, že majú top. Posledný väčší incident, nerátajúc menšie problémy pri štarte, bolo zastavenie časomiery počas pokusu Mei Kotake, keď mala do konca pokusu ešte 12 sekúnd. Po krátkej prestávke dostala dodatočné dve minúty, no nedokázala sa dostať do blízkosti topu.

The Himalayan Times reports that the "Swiss Machine", was killed in an accident on Mount Everest. This was his last post on his Facebook page. "Quick Day from Basecamp up to 7000m and back. I love it; it's such a great place here. I still believe in active acclimatization. This is way more effective then spending Nights up at Altitude!" Ueli was known for speed climbing big mountains often solo all over the world. His plan this time was to climb Mt Everest by never repeated West Ridge/Hornbein Couloir route without using supplemental oxygen.

1. Keita Watabe JPN - Shauna Coxey GBR 2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN - Janja Garnbret SLO 3. Jernej Kruder SLO - Miho Nonaka JPN Complete results Excellent final with great route setting but some incidents. In the first boulder, Keita reached the top with the first hand one second before timing out but the judge gave OK for having matched and controlled in just split seconds. Even the commentators were not sure as it had previously been said that you needed "control the final hold for three seconds". The picture shows Keita just before the big cross over move and then he matched with his left hand on top. Split seconds later he got the control by the judge. Based on that the clock actually shows 2 seconds, when it is between 1 and 2 seconds left, we can conclude that Keita actually just controlled it for few split seconds before he got the ok by the judge. Further more, as in Chongqing, one topped and matched on the last volume but this was not good enough as the top hold was just a small micro. The last major incidents, besides a minor starting mistake, was that the clock stopped for Mei Kotake when only 12 seconds remained. After a small pause she was given 2 min more but could not get close to the top.

1. WATABE Keita 220 - COXSEY Shauna 280 2. CHON Jongwon 183 - GARNBRET Janja 227 3. NARASAKI Tomoa 169 - NONAKA Miho 167 4. FUJII Kokoro 166 - GEJO Stasa 136 5. RUBTSOV Aleksei 152 - KLINGLER Petra 131 Complete results