30 April 2017

New Speed World Records but too many incidents

Iuliia Kapliva from Russia and Reza Alipourshena from Iran set new world records by 7.38 respective to 5.48, winning the third stage of the Speed World Cup in Nanjing in China. Out of the Boulderers, Sean McColl was best #32 with 8.74. You had to do 6.53 to make it into the Top-16. Other than that, the problem with false start and slipping continues and almost 50 % of the time in the finals, the winner is not decided by who is the fastest. The solution for this could be that if you make a false start, you get a penalty of 0.5 seconds but at least there will be a battle. Imagine the world championship or the Olympics viewers watching just one climber jogging the route at the same time the opponent stands super frustrated below. In regards the slipping, the easiest idea is to add more foot holds and to possibly make some bigger. Complete results.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
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